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GeorgeLuucas

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Everything posted by GeorgeLuucas

  1. First of all, I like this sword. It checks many of my boxes. It reminds me of another wakizashi that I’m having professionally restored. It’s unpapered and mumei. I think KOTO and suriage. I’m getting Yamato vibes. Am I just seeing what I want to see, or am I on the right track? Nagasa: 51cm (20.2inch) Motohaba: 2.7cm Sakihaba: 1.75cm Kissaki length: 3.2cm Still working on photography. I need a lighting rig. Light and reflections seemed to be battling me on this one. It’s easier to admire and looks better in-hand. Cheers, -Sam
  2. Color me jealous... Lovely sword Lewis! It checks many of my personal boxes. Thank you for sharing! Cheers, -Sam
  3. I think if you have a trained and professional crafstman do the work, then altering a nakago-ana is OK... That being said, if the Tsuba is papered, then the altered nakago-ana might make the papers appear/become invalid, because the photo no longer perfectly matches the item. < Question for the more experienced: would this be a correct assumption? Cheers, -Sam
  4. I've always been told to leave Type 95s in their tsuka, because it's difficult to get them to fit together tight when you re-assemble them. It's cool to actually see one disassembled. I've flipped the images so we can see them properly oriented. Cheers, Sincerely, -Sam
  5. I'm interested to see the Nakago. Keep us posted! You may get some flack, but i'd also take a swing at only $300 Best of luck, -Sam
  6. Please don't take my opinions here as fact: - First and foremost, I have also never seen this combo of style and colors. - My guess is that it's real, maybe with some "post-production" customization going on. 0-10 and 10 is fake? I’d give it a 4 for now, pending more images. Obviously a big wild guess with just the one photo. Are you able to request more photos? Best of luck, -Sam
  7. Thanks for sharing Brian, and congratulations! I've always really liked older blades in Gunto fittings and I collected them for a little bit. This one looks like a great find. I'd be curious to see better photos of that Sarute. It looks better-than-average to my untrained eye. Very cool! It always feels good to rescue a sword from the wild. Cheers, -Sam
  8. Hello everyone, I have finally sold some of the beginner pieces from my collection, and would like to purchase something papered and in-polish. I'd like to get the best "bang-for-my-buck" quality wise; so I was thinking O-suriage mumei Wakizashi with NBTHK attribution papers. Let me know if you think this is a bad route with my given budget and experience - I am always open to more experienced advice and opinions. My tastes gravitate toward Yamato and Yamashiro den, and the older the better... I enjoy admiring swords that exhibit masame, mokume, hakikake, and suguha hamon. Length is less important to me at this stage in my collecting. In a perfect world I'd buy something Awataguchi or Rai, but I've got to keep my expectations realistic (but this gives an idea of the aesthetic I admire) I was hoping to find a good example of Yamato Taema, Hosho, or maybe Shikkake. Anything old Yamashiro would be awesome, but I just don't think I have the funds for that. Something in shirasaya so I can focus my $ on the blade. I don't want Mihara or Uda. Is something Kamakura or Nambokucho too much to ask? Hoping to find something in the States, and have started shopping around. I will be at the SF sword show this August, if anyone would like to discuss some blades in person. Budget: ~$3,500 All the best, -Sam
  9. I’m sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but this sword is not a genuine Japanese sword. Unfortunately, It is likely a Chinese fake. http://www.jssus.org...japanese_swords.html Sincerely, -Sam
  10. Interesting older discussion. Why, exactly, is it that shinogi-zukuri tanto with yokote are always such low quality? I understand that the form is unattractive. And I’ve seen so many that are more ‘touristy’ than anything. But does it not stand to reason that high quality blades could be suriage to such a short length, that they’d still have some level of quality and interest? When a really nice shinogi-zukuri blade had to be shortened to such an extent. Was the sword simply scrapped rather than changed so drastically? All the best, Cheers, -Sam
  11. Howdy, neighbor! I am just a collector, and not an expert. I would avoid using it for practice until you've got a better idea of what you have. You never know! I will be following along to see what the more knowledgable have to say. Welcome to the forum! Cheers from Tualatin, Feel free to reach out if you wanna chat swords with a fellow beginner, -Sam
  12. While it's well publicized, albeit hard to ascertain without experience, what a "well made" Nihonto should be. To me, there's a scale to any art, and ones budget restricts the quality. IMO art is subjective, and not all art is equal. My niece makes art at our house every weekend, but none of it will ever be displayed in the Louvre. Likewise, my sue-bizen late muromachi sword will never be appreciated as a masterful work of art; but I think it's cool, and it reminds me of better works i've seen in other collections. Not in a way I can appreciate for hours on end or anything, but it's just enough to spark my interest, study, and keep the Nihonto ball rolling. Just like that oil painting on my wall isn't a Rembrandt - it does remind me of fine art i've seen around the world - just a much lower quality. Should I tear everything down, and criticize it all, because it's not "tRuE aRt"? Not my style. Just my two cents, fART, -Sam
  13. It's a shame there's not a club up here, I was surprised too. There's a few of us collectors scattered about. I've thought about trying to start a club, but I'm just too busy. Maybe someday. (But crossing my fingers someone else starts a PNW club before then ). A great alternative is the Northern California Japanese Sword Club. They do zoom meetings and offer a bunch of other great resources. I have yet to join their meetings, but I just recently renewed my membership, thanks to a advice from @Toryu2020 http://www.ncjsc.org/ All the best, -Sam
  14. Good info here, and cool sword Hunter. I am also looking forward to seeing your other blades. Nice to see more Nihonto collectors in the Northwest. A kind hello from your southern neighbor (Oregon)! Welcome to the forum, Cheers, -Sam
  15. Out of curiosity, and sorry if you've covered this before, but: What are you plans with your information gathering endeavors? Do you plan to write a book / provide info for a book? I imagine it would be more comprehensive than what we currently have available on gunto nakago. @Rivkin you thinking of writing a book? Cheers, -Sam
  16. Looks just fine Steve - As long as it keeps the tsuka from falling off the nakago. And you don’t want the mekugi (peg) to fall out of the ana (hole). Words to the wise: ALWAYS confirm the presence, and proper placement, of the mekugi BEFORE handling your blades. Having a blade unexpectedly slip out of the Tsuka can cause damage, and also be very dangerous. Cheers, -Sam
  17. - Whole book: Kentei for beginners / intro to kentei - A book in English about early Koto Yamato-Den - Now that we're well into the 'future of photography', I'd love a book with high definition photographs that focuses exclusively on blade forging quality, flaws, and features. Disclaimer: maybe one or more of these books already exists, but escaped my searches. I have many books that touches on these subjects, but does not dive deep into them as much as I would like. Including but not limited to Marcus Sesko koto kentei + supplement, facts and fundamentals of Japanese swords, connoisseurs guide, etc... etc...
  18. If the ends of the mekugi "came off" then you must have been using a pair of pliers to pull at it? I'd try using a chopstick, or a similar "poker tool", to PUSH the mekugi out. Mekugi are slightly tapered or "cone shaped", so they should come out one-way more easily than the other. Like Colin says, images would help a lot because the description of your issue isn't clear. Cheers, -Sam
  19. If I saw this listing, made my offer, and purchased the sword - then yes I would want it. The scuffs are an eyesore, but I have blades with much bigger issues in my collection. I would have wanted better photos of that area also; but there's no reasons to suspect the seller was hiding anything that wasn't already clear prior to purchase. I might even turn down the offer of a discount, and chalk it up to being "my bad". If I were in your shoes, I'd keep it and enjoy the sword in my collection. It's a nice looking sword, in my novice opinion. Alex brings up what ultimately matters - and that's what you think, All the best, -Sam
  20. Both marks on the blade were shown in the original listing; albeit at the edge of the photos. The fact that a discount was offered is very generous, IMO. I agree with John, and I would follow his and Brians advice on this one. Cheers, -Sam
  21. I can’t speak to 3 and 1 oil. Hopefully someone more experienced will address that option. Here’s one I’ve used: https://www.amazon.com/Yoshihiro-Japanese-Maintenance-Complimentary-Sabitori/dp/B00AZ6SYSY? Singer sewing machine oil is often recommended too. Choji oil, Or pure clear and unscented mineral oil Best of luck, -Sam
  22. Grey gives great advice. You only really need a microfiber cloth and appropriate oil. I just use a clean cloth used for eyeglasses, and light machine oil (I dont like the smell of choji oil). The powder is called "Uchiko", and it can potentially be harmful to your blade, and also your lungs. https://web.archive....-considered-harmful/ Here is a web article - you'll have to scroll down a little - that explains the potential harms of using Uchiko. Here is a high quality cleaning kit. BUT as has been mentioned, the Uchiko may be unnecessary and potentially harmful. This kit also includes choji oil, and some paper to wipe the blade. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204652887233? Go slow and be careful. The sword survived this long, and will survive while you study a bit too. Best of luck, -Sam
  23. To me, it looks like the blade had some corrosion/rust in the yakiba, and someone removed the rust with something abrasive. I have a WW2 sword with similar issues. Probably not fatal - certainly not ideal. It seems some less-informed folks would rather scratch up the blade and claim it to be "rust free and therefore 'very good' condition". I would consider that amateur restoration in my opinion, and something we should never do. Ultimately it boils down to what you're willing to accept as the buyer. All the best, -Sam
  24. My favorite part is the Kashira and matching kurikata, kojiri and saya fittings. They look maybe shakudo to me, but it's hard to tell from the distance in the photo. If I had to guess - and it's really just my beginners wild guess - i'd say: Mumei edo period wakizashi, perhaps Seki. I hope i'm in the ballpark, but very prepared to be wrong, All the best, -Sam
  25. In the meantime, here’s an interesting thread on the tassels. After reading through it, I feel the one in question looks a little funny - In my opinion All the best, -Sam
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