Franco D

Let's take a step back. First of all, the polish that I have been talking about was a hadori/kesho polish done in the mid 1990's. At that time the standard procedure for care of a newly polished sword was oiling > uchiko > reoil > repeated over and over, over the next 6 months. The polisher obviously knew having carefully and precisely dictated of how to care for the sword over the next coming months exactly what effect the use of uchiko would have on his finish. So, in a sense the final look of his polish was being executed at his direction. However, anyone thinking or believing that the polish wasn't already set needs to have their thinking and understanding examined. Polishing has evolved since that time. Yes, it's still a hadori/kesho polish/finish. However, this newer form I would describe as a finish that follows the hamon in a more precise manner, and it has the effect of unzipping itself to reveal all when viewed correctly. When it comes down to selecting a sword for polish and choosing a polisher it makes sense to go with the best possible.

Who said anything about improving the polishers polish? It would take an enormous ego to even suggest such a thought. You think that you understand, but you just demonstrated that you don't. And, Michael, your talk of budgets and different skilled polishes here means what exactly? Stick it!

Mark, none of your comment comes as any surprise. I bet that without even realizing it you've managed to insult as many as two excellent fully trained professional polishers, and perhaps more. I'm just glad that they may never read your insulting words or see your insulting rude mannerism. As you were.

Sorry, Microdear is a cleaning cloth designed for optics.

Actually, it is not. From personal experience, I had an Echizen Rai Kuniyasu that was polished in Japan. Over the first 6 months I followed the polisher's care instructions precisely. Which included using uchiko. Over those 6 months the detail and activity continued becoming more and more vivid. In fact, this sword was shown twice to our study group over that time. Upon which our late friend Arnold Frenzel commented aloud "where did all that ashi come from." Where indeed! Now, having said that, I was given very similar care instructions using uchiko for a sword I had polished after that. I've chosen not to follow the uchiko path on this other sword. Why? Polisher's uchiko will not scratch when used absolutely correctly. However, it will absolutely leave fine scratches if it is not used absolutely correctly. Since I do not trust myself to be using uchiko absolutely correctly over 100% of the sword, I choose not to use it. Additionally, I've watched two different polishers uchiko my swords and neither one left a scratch on either sword. In any case, old, new, times are a changing. Microdear cloth and anhydrous alcohol works just fine. Regards

The problem isn't looking at the Juyo Morisuke, in fact not at all. Would love to see it. The problem for some is that their eye can't stop being drawn to the chip. Regards

While location can have some variation in the ones I've seen, the characteristics including shape, angle, and depth are unmistakable as to what made that mark.

Having seen a number of Nambokucho period blades with real kirikomi, I would consider what I'm seeing here as romanticized flaws of suspicious origin. Some collectors can live with flaws. Buy what you like, but know what you're buying.

Fyi, https://nihonto.com/the-ichimonji-school-一文字派/

Years ago I looked at a mumei tanto that was in much worse shape than this piece appears to be in, damaged tip, and heavy rust. Only it had a small window opened up which showed quality. So, I bought it and it polished out just fine. If a sword has foundations issues choosing the right polisher becomes even more critical. Regards

The shape of this oshigata sword has significant differences to my eye. So, while lengths may be similar, time frames of manufacture are not. One reason lengths may be similar is that later swords were attempting to copy earlier examples.

Juyo swords can have fatal flaws. I do not know whether or not a fatal flaw will be noted in the origami. When it comes to nihonto it's never easy. Regards

Hi Ray, What is the shape of the mune? Thank you. Regards

Congratulations. Looks like a sword worthy of consideration for a top polish at some point. Regards

My guess; Shape + boshi + not polished down + nakago patina > Edo (probably Shinto) period sword Regards

Unfortunately, these appear to be lower level production work. Which makes it very difficult to determine who made these unless someone has prior experience seeing similar work. Regards

My guess at this point would be Shinshinto or newer (meiji period). Perhaps not water quenched. Regards

No worries. Actually, it is a good topic to raise as there are all too often misconceptions that need to be challenged and more carefully thought through. Regards

Not really. While not absolutely full proof, the securest way to ship a sword in the U.S. has always been via USPS registered mail. Why? It's because the package first of all must be wrapped according to standard, so that all seams can be stamped with a seal to deter tampering. Next, the package then travels under lock and key the entire way and must be signed for by everyone that handles that package in addition to being tracked the entire trip. The package must be signed for at the time of delivery. Travel time is considerably longer (and it costs much more) than it used to be now that Trump appointed and Biden kept De Joy who is running things. None the less, it is, or at least was, the safest/secure way to ship. The second safest way to ship a sword is/was via overnight USPS Express mail when it is guaranteed to arrive the next day by a given time. Why? The package is tracked and must be signed for, and it doesn't sit around waiting for prying eyes. Each post office has a cutoff time for express mail. If one arrives ready to go just before that cutoff time that also ensures the package isn't sitting around for long. Do not ship the package if next day isn't guaranteed. Again, nothing is full proof. Regards

https://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/8456-katana-with-bo-hi/ Here we go again. Please explain to me how the function of an I-beam applies/transfers to the function of nihonto and a cutting activity. Is the sword carrying a load? Regards

Are you applying this comment to all Japanese swords or just limiting it to swords with core steel construction? Regards

Could you please tell us which USPS service was used? Registered mail? Express? Other? Thank you. Regards

I would seek the advice of a polisher and perhaps even their services in this matter and consider it a lesson learned. Nihonto should be carefully examined and wiped clean every time they are out before being put away house guests or not. Uchiko used improperly will scratch. A quartz halogen light will show the scratches. Regards

Colin, I am aware. When flaws become worse with each passing view ..... Koto? Shinto? Shinshinto? , exactly! Somebody has been playing games with this sword. Regards

Colin, After having gone back over all the images again, there isn't a single image that doesn't show problems/flaws. Fatal flaws? No. But certainly not acceptable for this sword. Even the surface of the sword is showing signs of being over polished. That, and for me this alternate shaped kissaki should be considered a flaw. Plus, the bo-hi - mei , looks to me like somebody has definitely been monkeying around there. Either the mei was added or the bo-hi. One would have to look carefully to see how the edge of where the mei and bo-hi come together look. Which came first? It's not even clear to me that this entire sword wasn't made with the intention of fooling. But, I could be completely wrong. Regards Don't be a pink paper Japanese sword collector!