Franco

My first thought was reproduction although, I'm uncertain of method.

Checking Sesko's Meikan - sword fittings, am not seeing anything that gives confidence to the mei on this tsuba. Other sources? Regards,

Images from above; at the ko shinogi?, at munemachi? Moto kasane? Saki kassane? Moto haba? Saki haba? Width of nakago at widest point? Close up images of nakago? Thank you. Regards,

In order to begin answering your question and narrowing down the possibilities for your sword, it is essential to get the time period of manufacture correct. Otherwise, you may end up chasing your own tail around searching for the answer. Kantei begins with correctly determining time period first in order to avoid becoming completely lost, as Arnold Frenzel would say. Regards,

Haven't used wooden toothpicks for rust removal, but have used them on soft metal tosogu for minor restoration and cleaning without issue. Among the tools I've used for restoring iron tsuba (removing rust) are old broken ivory crotchet hooks that can usually be found at flea markets. With varied shapes and sizes available, just the right one for the job often presents itself. I've not had an issue with these ivory pieces causing damage on an iron surface.

Once the heavier rust is removed using deer antler and ivory, purchase natural bristle paint brushes and gently brush the iron surfaces. Let the brushes and time do the work. Keep the brushes and work surfaces clean. If this were my tsuba, despite having successfully restored a number of tsuba, I would consider contacting Brian Tschernega about having it professionally restored. Regards,

First, ..... https://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/search/?q=omori teruhide&quick=1 Them? While having seen a significant number of Omori Teruhide's wave work (papered), I have only seen less than a handful of Omori Teruhide's top level (custom-special order ???, anyway, that would be my guess) wave work. More out there? One example can be found in a Special Exhibition catalogue from the Tokyo Museum of the best fittings in Japan of which unfortunately I only have a photo copy of .... A very similar f/k set to the one in the special exhibition catalogue imaged above appeared at a sword club event a number of years ago. What I can describe is that the waves were all breaking in coordination/unison with each other, smooth, not wriggly, very well defined, and each wave down to the tiniest was undercut. Even the waves overlapping each other were almost fully undercut and polished. The under-carvings of the waves were multi level giving a 3D depth and swirling effect. It is difficult to imagine how much work went into making such a piece. Notable were the waves that were carefully crafted so that there was virtually no chance of being hooked or caught on a garment. The material was a rich shibuichi, not shakudo. Although, most viewers initially thought this set was shakudo. Below is a partial image of the kashira (grateful to the owner for permission), which will, hopefully, give viewers some impression of the intricacies of this work. This work was simply on another level than the majority of wave work seen. Keep in mind that this image is somewhere between 2 to 3 times larger than the actual size. Regards,

Tsuba to kill or ease pain. I think you may have something there. Will give it a try! Regards,

B level compared to Teruhide's best work.

Research what? What is it that you're hoping to learn? http://japaneseswordindex.com/nihonto.htm

Bee hive, pollen cells.

Hello Ron, Have you tried looking in TosoKinko-En.pdf available through Markus Sesko? Regards,

After looking at the tsuba a 2nd time under double magnification I have some doubts it would get any of the afore mentioned attributions. Auguri,

Reasonable. Mino-Goto would be another thought??? Auguri, https://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/2206-yamagane-suaka/

Yeah, but Baba, you made blanket statements when that is not the actual reality. Judge each sword, judge each polish, on their own merits. Try to get past likes and dislikes for just for the sake of each. Regards,

Having seen this in the before and after polish on what appeared to be a very promising looking early Koto sword, unfortunately it can and does happen. When a sword is sent off for polish there's usually one of two types of phone calls received before the polish has been finished from the polisher, unexpected good news or absolutely dreaded news. Regards,

So, Baba, when Tanobe san recommends a polisher, and that polisher performs a hadori polish, and then that sword passes juyo shinsa, the entire exercise was done for the benefit of the masses, is that right? And exactly who are these purists? In the past I have seen swords polished by NLT Ono Kokei, Kajiwara, Yoshikawa, and very likely Hon'ami Koson, and they were all done in hadori. Are you suggesting that these polishers were not nihonto purists and didn't understand what it is that they were doing? Or that perhaps they were catering to the masses?

Hint, when looking at a hadori finished sword, if one's eye and or the surface of the sword are lined up in a direct line with/from the light source to the eye, you might as well be looking at a pig with lipstick. Regards, Ask me no more questions, and I'll tell you no more lies.

Hello Noah, Suggestions, Try to find and get a hold of the following book. Japanese Master Swordsmiths: The Gassan Tradition Paperback – June 1, 1989 by Morihiro Ogawa (Author) Take your time and enjoy the process, find, research, verify, restore. When in doubt, ask. Regards,

Hi Bazz, Yes, many, many, things are far nastier. None the less, don't breath, wear gloves, vapor is a strong eye irritant, highly flammable. This stuff vaporizes into the air very quickly, be prepared. That's all, but isn't that enough. Regards,

If this were my blade the only thing that I would do is keep the blade oiled including a very light film of oil on the nakago. Then, change the oil about once a week being very careful not to rub any grit or dirt into the surface of the blade. In other words tamp the old oil off with an unscented plain clean kleenex instead of using a wiping motion. I would not recommend using uchiko to remove and change the oil here, especially on a blade with an uncleaned surface that is not free of rust. On active red rust I would change the oil daily until the rust is under control. When in doubt consult a qualified polisher. An electronics grade 99.9% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol will work to remove sword oil, but take full precautions as it is nasty stuff.

Hello, Restoration by? Thanks for sharing. Regards,

Colin, Thank you for not being upset, not taking the down vote personally. Still, my apology for casting it without explanation. Why is because I strongly disagree that it is only a matter of opinion. No, it is not any longer "only" a matter of opinion when there is a majority consensus by the experts that says otherwise. That isn't to say that you're not entitled to have that opinion. Neither is it saying not to express your opinion. Are we going to start telling polishers how to polish a sword? Is liking something reason enough? Regards,

One thing to be cautious about when evaluating a sword is to keep in mind those features that can be a function of polish and fairly easily manipulated apart with those that cannot readily be changed. While recognizing that the current polish is lacking, this bizen-ish sword without the bizen brings to mind for me the Kozori school. Shinsa? Without a clear boshi don't expect a definitive call. Regards,

When posting on an open forum, unfavorable responses should come as no surprise. Btw, your throwing out an insult for simple criticism places your thin skin on full display.