DTM72

Mark, If you click "WESTGATE RESORT & CASINO" it gives the error. If you click "Reserve click here Show rate $108 for regular room $125 for deluxe room" everything is good. I just made my reservation this morning, and booked my flight last night. Unfortunately, for me, I have a very important meeting on Thursday that I cannot miss. I will be flying on Friday and arriving around 11:30am, then Uber to the show.

When I go to the website and see the flier, and click on the "Westgate Resort & Casino" below the "January 26 & 27, 2024" I get the "Reservations are Closed" message. When I follow the link provided above, everything is fine. Many thanks!

Mark, The hotel website is saying Reservations are closed We're sorry. This event is now closed to new reservations. Due to the proximity of the event dates, please contact your desired hotel directly regarding availability also for changes & cancels. Contact information, if available, is below. Is this an error? I was about to book everything this morning. Without the group rate, the rooms are $346 a night! This would be a trip killer for me.

I got nothing. Yet.

The company that made all the armor for the movie, sells a close version of the armor used in the movie for just under $5000 USD. https://shop.samurai...rmor/?v=7516fd43adaa

Very nice!

@Patinamax the characters also appear to be upside down. If it is Japanese kanji, they would be read as the tip is towards the sky and the end of the nakago (tang) is towards the floor. As the sword is held in theis position, the kanji is on the left side of the nakago for katana, wakizashi, and tanto. and on the right side for tachi. (<-there are some exceptions to this but this is normally how it is) All the best,

So with everything above being said, what about the NBTHK 1980 shinsa held in the USA? I have a kozuka that was given Tokubestu Kisho (green) papers. This was apparently the highest level paper available at the US shinsa. I have multiple (recently) papered blades, but this is the first papered fitting I own. Just wanting to know if there were any questions as to the outcome of that shinsa. This piece came from the Mike Quigly collection, and was submitted by him. https://www.nihontoc...se_sword_papers.html

THIS hits the nail on the head for me! Thank you for putting it in writing, summing up my position in collecting right now. @Shamsy Stay with us! Your input is a valuable tool for those of us that have not quite hit that point of getting every type and make in our collection. You are NOT alone in your collecting position! Wishing you all the best! Dan

Yep, fingers went fater than my slow brain. I edited my post to reflect the correct math. Thanks Bruce!

All the way to the left is a katana in later Type3 mounts (a contingency model to the most common Type 98 just to the right of this one) These generally had machine made blades. Moving from left to right, second from the left is a dated katana in a type 98 saya (scabbard). What you see is the date (Showa Ju Hachi Nen Hachi Gatsu )(August of 1943) 昭和十八年八月 The center katana appears to be slighty suriage (shortened) and looks to be early Shinto or possible Koto. Hard to tell from the distant photo. Second from the right is a katana from WWII signed (Seki Ju 23rd Kane Fusa Saku Kore with Showa acceptance stamp above signature) ( Seki city 23rd generation Kanefusa made this) 関住二十三代兼房作之 All the way to the right looks to be a suriage (shortened) wakizashi that was probably once a katana. I would guess early shinto on this, but again hard to tell without close up.

I lived in Coventry for a short while while working for the UK Ministry of Defense. I kinda miss it. Would like to visit UK again in the future. I had a flat right across from the Transport Museum.

Thanks for the update!

Glad to hear I am not the only one who was saying "WTF, it doesn't make that sound!" I guess the sound was added for dramatic flair.

Although it is in "well used" condition, it would still sell if it were to be put into the sales section.

I agree with Matt. From what can be seen, the nakago looks artificially darkened, the yasurime is horrible and the singature is not recognizable.

I have actually had decent luck going into a completely dark room with an iPhone or Android. Place sword on a dark blanket or other dark, non-reflective background. (with lights on) Turn on your camera phone and zoom-in to 2.0-2.5 x zoom. Make sure flash is on. Hold phone about 10 cm away from the sword surface. Turn off the light. (may need someone to help you) Snap lots of pictures. (you can always delete bad pics later. The bohsi (tip) is sometimes hard to photo. The first two pics are from a mid-Koto period (1400's) wakizashi, next 3 are from an early Edo period katana (1650-1660) Pics below were taken following the above steps. Hope this helps!

I think you have alot to learn about photographing a sword blade. (No disrespect intended) Taking a photo of a highly reflective surface, to show the fine deatils of that surface, is very difficult. There are articles on here (the NMB) about how to photograph blades to capture these fine details. As to your second question, I would label it as a good reproduction made outside of Japan by a smith using some Japanese forging techniques, using a mix of mill steel and oroshigane, and some decent polishing using some Japanese polishing techniques.

I'm 180cm tall...far from giant. Maybe Rokujuro saying the person must be a giant man was maybe meaning like strong or muscular, not necessarily how tall he is. Then again, it takes a tall person with long arms to draw an 80 cm katana or tachi while mounted on the hip.

Love to see crazy projects. Please post more information, pictures!

I almost bid on the childrens sword lot, because I liked the small type 19. Something told me not to bid. I think it was my good angel leaving it alone for you to take. Glad the lot is going to a great home! Please post pics once you get them. Dan

I put my bib on a few things, but after the final sales price, plus the 25% buyers premium and shipping, I really didn't find any great deals on swords. I saw quite a few tsuba in lots and singles going really cheap, or not sold at all. I don't know enough about tsuba to take the risk to buy, and resell.

I like it. I would prefer it to be the traditional wood core, wrapped in TRUE carbon fiber. Once the carbon fiber and resin are laid upon the wood core, it cures for 16 hours at 150F degrees or as little as 15 minutes at 250F.

Acid etched fake hamon. Not an authentic Nihonto. Could possibly be a parade saber but can't tell much from the 2 pictures.