MHC

Jean, You mention punching thru a "red hot Nakago", I thought the Tsukamaki-Shi installed the Mekugi-Ana hole. So your saying the Tsukamaki-Shi re-heated the Nakago? Would not re-heating the Nakago to a red hot state, damage the temper on the blade? Mark

See...now you spoiled my plans, I even got all dressed up for it. Mark

Yes Jamie, the Toledo blade is a replica, the Katanas are fakes, most likely of Chinese origin. However, they would still look real nice as wall hangers, and pretty reminders to you, that research and knowledge should precede any purchase. Lesson learned, and likely not a very expensive lesson at that. Choke it up to experience, and move forward knowing better now. Best of luck with your future ventures into the world of swords, and remember, always have fun, or it ceases to be a hobby! Mark

Jean, I humbly beg to differ.... the only thing that could be misconstrued as wrong, is the fact that SOME (not all) modern blacksmiths do indeed fold or twist their welded stack of thin steel sheets(in order to attempt to get accreditation from the modern blacksmithing community). I have reviewed and overseen classes in blacksmithing as an experiment in knowledge gathering, and have seen 1st hand through class instruction and actual examples of worked steel (both new and old) that were attempts to replicate the LOOK of the original Wootz steel Damascus blades. I have seen as many as 100 pieces of .020 thick sheets of steel all stacked together, edge tack welded then heated in a forge and hammer welded together. Once shaped and semi polished, these displayed the pattern exactly as seen in the bogus sword shown in the photo. I was simply commenting on examples I've held in my had as a comparison. Yes, some blacksmiths from far back in history tried many ways to duplicate true Damascus steel, all with varying degrees of failure. The Wikipedia article you linked, tells us as much. Furthermore I was not trying to give a thesis on the history and manufacture of original Wootz crucible pattern steel Damascus blades, or on Pattern welded blades, I was once again, simple commenting on the shown blade from the original OP, and giving a loose overview of how most likely THAT blade was made. Original Wootz crucible Patterned Damascus steel was just that, a crucible steel, not a welded pattern steel ingot...huge difference between each of these. I have not studied the construction of Viking swords, so I am not competent to comment regarding them. Politely, Mark

The picture of the "Toledo" blade also appears to be a modern replica as well, which is a copy based on the original swords of days gone by. It too is a pattern welded blade, it is not an authentic Damascus steel blade. You can go online and buy those replica blades for only several hundred dollars, they are a very popular tourist items, and military folks pick them up while on leave as well. Additionally, many absolutely just like that can be found on several other sword collector forums for sale. Mark

I do believe this type of look comes from what is called "pattern welded steel". Which is simply multiple thin layers of same/similar steel that have been stacked together, edge tack welded together, then heated and hammer forged together, WITHOUT any folding occurring. The slight difference in layer colors, mainly comes from the surface skin carbon/scale that is present on each individual layer of thin steel that has been stacked together. The surface impurities show up after hammer forging has fussed the individual sheets together. You can clearly see the layered detail even in the nakago, which you never seen in a true Japanese sword. The layers only appear in a true Japanese sword after careful, proper polishing. My .02 worth. Mark

Hello Jacques, It's not a round hole that gives away a drilled hole (usually), it's the perfectly symmetric, evenly pushed out burr on the back side, that is still very thin but still has a crisp edge on the burr. An older punched hole would(should) have aged by now, without a thin sharp burr still remaining. But it's just an observation from a small photo, so....... Mark

From my machinist eye, the Mekugiana appears to be drilled, not punched, so not too old?? Mark

You can just make out the remains of the serial number just ahead of the Habaki, definitely a WWII NCO sword that has been repurposed. Mark

Hello all, Regarding the first 2 shots of my Tsuba with the grass & orchids, would really like to find a nice matching Fuchi Kashira set to go along with it, as I plan to use them in the Koshirae on a Katana I have. So if anyone has a lead on a set they think would be a good pairing, please don't hesitate in dropping me a PM. Thanks. Mark

I have a couple of simple examples, that I find very appealing. No great works of any masters, but I like the simple styles. Mark.

Others have given this advise, and even though I'm a beginner, I'm going to offer it back up again! Unless you are a very astute Japanese sword collector, and very wise in all things Japanese sword....it is best to avoid Ebay/ Buyee or Auction Houses, and just buy your swords from quality folks like the folks here on this forum. Paying a little more for real quality and real Nihonto beats getting burned on a cheapee any day of the week! My .02 cents worth. Mark

Just received the Tsuba I bought from Ed today! Very nice. Super guy to work with, can't wait for his new improved site to be up-n-running! Mark

I just bought a tsuba from Ed, everything is fine with him. He is updating his web site as we speak, hopefully back up and running shortly. He was a victim of the severe cold snap down south, so that put a chink in his plans and timing, hard to update when you have no power! Mark

Well....I'm 3 for 3 with total fail with them. Even after winning 2 bids, before they bothered to tell me they could/would not ship the item(s). Item #1 was a cut up sword, all pieces under 15mm per legal export rules, claimed "unable to ship to the USA" ( receiving my $43 dollars back was like pulling teeth, took 4 weeks). Item #2 Tsuba (funds returned promptly) after claimed "unable to ship to the USA". Items #3 sword care kit, yep you guessed it "unable to ship to the USA", bid canceled from their end. Done, done & done with them for good! Mark

Thanks again all, Yes, I'm not a huge fan of the "over whitening" either, but it is what it is, as it is in full current new Japanese polish {bought it that way}. Blade dated August 1692 for your edification. Thanks. Mark

Thank you both very much for the information! It is painfully obvious that I need more reference material in my library. Mark

Hello all, 甫掃 (Hoso?) Interested in a Tsuba with the above Mei. but cannot find info on the school/artist through the search outlets here on this forum. Advertiser wrote Mei and possible translation noted above, not I, as that is beyond my ability. Any help would be appreciated, thanks. Mark

Hello all, Out of shear curiosity only, I bought a mumei Wak from Kumonjo off ebay, for a whooping sum of $168 bucks. Total rust bucket, no habaki, junk saya, no tsuka. Anyway, clean it up a bit and low and behold it is a folded steel blade, straight hamon, punched ana [not drilled], no real flaws to speak of sans the rust of course. Uneducated guess by the shape & patina on the nakago, 1800's, certainly not any older for sure. Not at all worth putting another dime into it, or even taking pictures of it.......but it appears by all accounts to be a real Japanese blade, most likely mass produced, probably for conscript military use?? Anyway, thought I'd throw it out there for you folks. Mark

Well better late than never...I'm 62 and been a Nihonto fan for 30 years. Bought my 1st sword in '94, 2nd in '18, 3rd in '19, 4th in '21. I had an old house restoration pause and feeding a porsche habit between '95 and '17, yes my other addictions! Anyway Porsche's gone, old house on the market as we speak, retirement at full speed ahead with Thailand as the destination! Mark

The blade is actually in fresh Japanese polish, but a heavy coat of oil {for protection during shipping} and poor pictures, really doesn't make it appear that way....so sorry. The entire Hamon is actually very white, and is hiding details that could otherwise be seen with a different type of polishing style. The current Japanese trend for this very white "look", is not my personal preference, but I bought the blade this way, and so it will stay. Later on once I'm in Thailand, I will clean off the oil and practice getting far better close up pictures, if I manage to pull that off, I'll share. Thanks for the replies! Mark

Hello all, In my never ending attempt to learn more, what do you feel is the most accurate style of this Hamon. I'm thinking predominately Gunome, but it also has some Toran traits. Please let me know your learned opinions, thanks! The pictures are very so-so, as the blade has a coating of light oil, so the light hits it always wrong. I won't be able to take better shots until I arrive in my new home in Thailand, as the blade is securely packed away for transport. Mark

Well now, what a way to be humbled.....I have now learned more in 1 short essay from Rog, than I've learned in months! The only down side is the clear and present fact, that I'm unworthy of these pages let alone making comments.......sigh. Time to get another book. Mark

Hummm...polished with scotchbrite and simechrome paste?? Nothing that another $2000 won't fix.......but it does look like a nice blade under all that abuse. Mark

It's simple really....the lure of easy money or wealth is the basis for all con's and scams, it matters not the subject or item. Sunken treasure, lost gold mine, buried mason jar full of coins, helping out the poor Nigerian lad. etc., etc. Personally, I have found that nothing has any real value, until one has invested either sweat, time or love into it. I gave up any illusion of instant benefit, once I aged into an adult. Mark