nagamaki - Franco

Greetings, Even if an artist capable and willing were found to make this f/k imaged, by the time all the hours were added up in addition to the cost of materials one would almost for certain come out much farther ahead simply finding a made set. And to answer the question Brian Tschernega is certainly capable.

Yes, solid silver. As for crappy the fit and performance are what is critical. The finish and pattern on the outside shows skill.

Connoisseurs will have to do until the opportunity arises to buy Yamanaka. Not sure why you're saying the wakizashi habaki is crappy, from the image it is either silver foil or solid silver. Suspect the former, could you post an image of the inside? Thanks.

Hello Andreas, http://www.ncjsc.org/ncjsc_publications.htm

Hello, Yes, always ship tsuba wrapped separately regardless of box. All fittings should be wrapped individually as well in or out of box. Stephen as you gather estimates Brian Tschernega does restoration.

Hi Andreas, That is quite possible. Think about this, if these two swords were unknown to you and you were asked to kantei them would you be able to answer correctly? That is a question we should all be asking ourselves as collectors. Have you read Yamanka's Newsletters revised? The reason for asking is that what we like does not necessarily translate into appreciation of the finer 'qualities' of nihonto in terms of kantei. It took reading and rereading Yamanaka's Newsletters (as well as many other kantei books), along with studying a good number of swords before beginning to understand this. Here, study the history of nihonto which talks about the transitions of lengths and shapes and correlates them to fighting styles of the times, one hand, quick draw, etc.. In a sense this will be a simplification, an overview, so much to learn and know. Also, suggest, there are a good number of conversations about daisho on this board and elsewhere on the internet to read, if you haven't already.

Hello, A place to begin; http://nihontocraft.com/2015_NBTHK_Nionto_Tosogu_Shinsa_Standards.html Before taking on the challenges presented of restoration a collector should first understand in an objective manner the proper way in which to begin evaluating their sword. In hindsight (25 years of study), a sword would have to be of Tokubetsu Hozon level before I would consider putting it through the works of polish, habaki, shirasaya, and origami. This is not to say a Hozon sword is not worthy of a proper restoration at all, rather, it is saying understand both the objective and subjective factors before deciding.

All of mine have come from ADORAMA CAMERA, https://www.amazon.com/Microdear-Microfiber-Deluxe-Cleaning-Cloth/dp/B0002E3WGI They are washable, use a non chem fragrant free detergent like Arm and Hammer that leaves no residues behind that might cause problems.

For what it's worth a few months ago I looked at a high quality original ~ mid Edo koshirae where the F/K and menuki matched (phoenix), but the tsuba nanako/dragon was different and the kozuka nanako/mon was still different.

Hello Joe, My reasoning for # 6 is based upon experience which has been to deal with only dealers willing to stand behind what they sell. There is the exception of knowing the deal is as is upfront. In which case always keep in mind the fortune cookie that reads 'don't mistake temptation for opportunity'.

Hello, Perhaps I'm mistaken but was under the impression that a mitokoromono is made up of kozuka, kogai, and menuki. So, it would leave me to believe the kozuka and menuki should match or be very similar. Corrections welcomed.

Not traditionally forged/made. Oil is slow cooling avoids hagire.

Hello, It becomes quite easy to tell once you learn how nioi and nie due to water quenching looks, bright, reflective, white, well defined. When from oil these characteristics will not be present, the hamon will look shadowy, not well defined, not reflecting the light back in a bright manner, and in some cases you'll even see different colors reflected back when you play with the light/angles. One of the best pieces of advice as a beginning collector looking back was being told to purchase Yamanaka's Newsletters revised sold by the NCJSC. In them you will find all these types of questions answered and much more. Value? Not highly sought after.

Speaking only for myself, 1) green 2) green 3) yellow (old paper simply means closer investigation which should be done anyway) 4) yellow (seems ok?) 5) yellow (several possibilities, good, meant to fool, attribution/opinion) 6) red 7) yellow (old polish could be a good old polish in which case .....) At least for me this would be a no go, too many reasons to pass, and too few reasons to say yes. While some yellow caution flags could turn green, some will not regardless. And while the red flag could turn green, suspect that the reason it turns green is to overcome all the yellow flags. It has been my experience that chasing swords for the wrong reasons never turns out well. "That sword will fit into my collection" is a rationalization. And when examined more carefully and thoroughly, it becomes more of making/forcing the sword fit into the collection. When the right sword comes along you'll know it, all the flags will be green

Hello, The chips 1/16th depth or less should be removable barring unforeseen circumstances. Posting images including overall with close ups of the tang, tip, chips, signature, and rust would be a good start.

Hello, Could the underside of the turtle indicate this side of the saya/log is underwater and weathered as such, the side strip water surface itself, bark side above? The kurigata looks like a mussel to me. And the fuchi must represent something to do with fishing/trapping perhaps?

Hello, I see a fox, bow hunter, and crescent moon along with plant items (bamboo, grain), there must be a story here.

Before plating/refoiling a proper tight fit should be considered if there is a good sword involved.

Greetings, Would like to bring to your attention a newly posted article linked below and personally thank Danny and Arnold and anyone else responsible for making the posting of this article possible. And of course a special thank you to Togishi Shigekazu Jimmy Hayashi, who is not only an outstanding polisher but such a wonderful kind gentle and genuine person, for sharing his time and knowledge in the making of this article. Will add having attended this study session and lecture, this was truly an eye opening and uplifting event. In particular at least for myself was being taught how to correctly examine and study a sword in addition to understanding all involved from a polisher's perspective. Thank you! http://www.nihontocraft.com/Jimmy_Hayashi_Sword_Polisher.html

Looks to me like a WWII oil tempered sword in which case should be posted in Military Swords of Japan forum.

Hello, Although one can think up of multiple reasons for consulting and choosing an excellent polisher with a blade like the subject blade, chances are you're going to only get one shot to save the blade. Which means a polisher who does outstanding foundation work in addition to finishing.

Hello, Based upon image I would show it to a really good polisher to get an opinion. There will likely be excellent polishers in attendance at San Francisco.

Hello, Looks like a lovely blade, however, would like to see close up images of kissaki/boshi on both sides if possible? Thanks in advance.

Shishi with stripes like you might see on a tiger, tail like you might see on kirin, spikes like a dragon, what is the basis/story for this creature?

Very unusual pair, Goto, solid gold, hmm