nagamaki - Franco

Darcy, Sharing your experiences is much appreciated, thank you.

Greetings, Reflection, When I first began collecting nihonto and tosogu, I didn't paper or have anything restored, simply because I didn't understand and know any better. When I finally began to understand nihonto and tosogu, I papered and restored everything, simply because I thought that I understood and knew better. Now, many years later, I find myself no longer papering and restoring everything nihonto and tosogu, simply because I've begun to understand when I do and do not know any better.

Additional thoughts, Yes, safety first, which means being in the right frame of mind, calm and relaxed, before starting. Make certain the blade is secure. Stop if there is any sign it is not, movement. Don't try to catch a falling blade, a reflex action. Gentle [firm] tapping is all that should be needed, do not force. If you have to use excessive force then something is not right, reevaluate. Beware, there have been rare instances reported of a habaki having been soldered on. In the difficult instances of my habaki removals I found some combination of green and black crud and/or corrosion rust built up that was the problem. Gentle persuasion. Good luck.

Hello, Hello Ed, I use an L shaped piece of wood and a small hammer. First, I place the sword flat on a padded table surface with the nakago/habaki extended out over the edge. Then, clamp the blade down with either a wood clamp and padded material, or with help, padded material and by hands. Then, placing the L shaped piece of wood flat on its long wide side on the sword with the end lip against the front lip of the habaki, I gently tap the habaki off by tapping the hammer against the short end of the L piece of wood sticking up. Often this requires turning the blade over several times to tap and work the habaki off evenly. Additionally, I usually work sword oil under the edges of the habaki and let it soak before hand. This method has never not worked, and never any damage with careful attention.

Already listed recommended Yamanaka http://"Nihonto Newsletter", by Albert Yamanaka, over 1900 pages in four volumes The Craft of the Japanese Sword by Kapp & Yoshihara The Connoisseur's Book of Japanese Swords by Kokan Nagayama Markus' books Art and the Sword series The Japanese Sword by Kanzan Sato Facts & Fundamentals of Japanese Swords: A Collector's Guide by Nobuo Nakahara Token Bijutsu English series also, At least for myself articles written by Allan H. Pressley were always very insightful from a beginning collector's point of view. With a little digging around they can be found.

see, http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/20321-nthk-2017-west-coast-shinsa/ If you cannot attend this show, highly recommended, you could still contact the show organizers and/or members here on NMB to find help in submitting your sword. Should your sword pass shinsa there will likely be at least one of 2, if not both, fully trained polishers in North American in attendance at the show to consult about restoration, as well as dealers who offer polishing services to Japan.

Hello Javier, The past day's research on tsuba size has revealed that there are many factors that should be considered in choosing a tsuba , ranging from blade size and length, to koshirae style and school, to tsuba material. In general, although there will be exceptions, a katana calls for a katana size tsuba. On average that falls from 7.5 cm to 8 cm ... https://archive.org/stream/japaneseswordmou16guns#page/32/mode/2up/search/katana+tsuba+ I spoke with a friend who focuses on collecting and studying old original koshirae who supports these numbers to be the case, with exceptions. In your case, before making any change I would talk to someone well experienced that can accurately identify the rest of your koshirae, and then research that information. It might be interesting to begin a new topic asking owners of "original koshirae" to post style/school and dimensions. Shibui swords has quite a bit written on tsuba http://www.shibuiswords.com/tsuba.htm Hope this is helpful.

Hello, Would like to see additional close up images of the sword, end to end? Thanks.

Greetings, At one time I owned a mumei straight as an arrow katana cane sword very much like this piece, with NBTHK TokuHo origami to late Kamakura period Yamato Nio complete with very clear easy to see ladder utsuri, as well as matching almost all other text book descriptions for school and time period. My guess, and it's only a guess, is that people, samurai, way back when, needed swords and canes, too. The polish on the subject sword, unfortunately, makes kantei difficult. Be that as it may, caution is still in order jumping to pigeonhole conclusions.

Hello Javier, Fuchi dimensions, and sword length por favor? Thank you.

Any thoughts on the school? https://books.google.com/books?id=vNwvaPSEnCMC&pg=PA142&lpg=PA142&dq=Sadatsugu+tsuba&source=bl&ots=xhv2MWX32h&sig=ayumAbE9DE9vMA7fZxFRIzqTmp4&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi9lfPJrsnUAhUk4IMKHaydAUQQ6AEINzAG#v=onepage&q=Sadatsugu%20tsuba&f=false

Western standard? I didn't know there is/was a western standard? Yes, there are plenty of examples of katana with tsuba shy of 3". Let's take a step back here and ask, Javier could you please show additional images of the tsuba with the seppa that came with the koshirae, and also ask for the fuchi dimensions to get a better idea of what's going on? Thank you.

Although copper, magnet test, not convinced it is shakudo at this time. Only finished to look like shakudo.

Hello Kinnan, Suspect it may be iron, a quick touch with a magnet will confirm. My uneducated guess would be a Bushu school tsuba.

Hello Kinnan, Thoughts, suggestions. 1. Restoration can be a very rewarding undertaking in itself. 2. Affirm and consult a polisher that the kissaki can be reshaped without further issues. Perhaps, even discuss polishing a window in the sword, which would allow you, a shinsa team, or a potential buyer should you decide to resell, to view what the sword will look like restored at a fraction of the cost, and usually in a short time. 3. Reshaping requires a polisher with excellent foundation skills. 2nd rate polisher = 2nd rate polish, often wasted money imho. 4. It would be wise to put the sword through a shinsa before proceeding. Not only will shinsa verify the mei, but also give you an evaluation that could be very helpful in deciding whether or not to go further. A shinsa may also give you the opportunity to visit a sword show, where undoubtedly your eyes will be opened. 5. There is much to learn, take your time, make informed decisions as there are many bumps and pot holes along this road to negotiate. 6. Restoration of the koshirae presents another adventure, and can be somewhat costly as well done correctly.

1. Based upon shape, shallow sori, fairly straight, Edo, a Kabun time frame is as good a 'guess' as any. Not enough detail can be seen in images to confirm, support. 2. shinsa 3. can't answer 4. keep well oiled. I would first saturate rust with oil, then work the rust areas over with nevr dull, and re-oil. 5. No.

Hello Javier, For a katana the tsuba should be at least 3 inches, iron or shakudo. My guess would be Mito for the waves.

Disclaimer, although not well versed in TokuJu, would have to believe in addition to all the i's dotted and t's crossed, a well rated smith, this must be an exemplary example of his workmanship combined with and in virtually perfect health. Perhaps, even still in its 1st or 2nd polish??? Known history??? All the bells and whistles except original koshirae???

Morning entertainment. Nagayuki Oite Settsu Koku saku kore. https://www.aoijapan.com/katana-nagayuki-oite-settsu-koku-saku-korenbthk-24th-tokubetsu-juyo-paper

This set, OT copy, at least to me has a Mito school flavor. Which many wave copies appear to be.

Why did the chicken menuki cross the ocean? When it comes to menuki in particular, the proof is in the detail. If fine detail isn't there, then 'like' is likely making your decision. Which is not being objective. Like it or not sellers count and play to that factor. And like the song says "I see trouble on the way."

As one Canadian collector surely would say, "it's the menuki that finds the owner." Thanks for sharing.

https://www.aoijapan.com/wakizashi-mumei-ko-bizen What's not to like?

It's called a katana + wakizashi + tanto, all papered, & all from the same tosho.

'Very quickly', the shape looks awkward, but that can be addressed by a polisher. So, then, you should explore as a newbie for the reasons why and how they might affect the sword from a collectors point a view. How and/or why does it look awkward? How will it look after being reshaped? In general, the boshi is a critical part of the sword requiring careful understanding and study of all the possible problems and flaws.