Harvey

My thanks to all for your advice and assistance.

Thanks Brian, I think I messed up posting the photos. Here's another attempt.

Hello to all, I'm looking to purchase this and would like to know what you think about it. Is it worth $500? Sorry but these are the only photos I have. Thanks for any and all help. Harvey

To me it looks like a dead beggar's body in clothes from the salvation-army and a shield hanging around his neck, saying: "I'm not dead yet" So....I take it you don't care for the sword?

Reinhard, Sorry, but I haven't purchased the sword and don't have immediate access to it. I tried to remove the habaki when I took these photos, but it was too tight to remove without the use of tools. By the comments received I'm not going to buy the sword and therefore don't wish to ask the seller to dis-assemble it. My photos are very poor but when seen first-hand there is without doubt a straight Hamon on the sword and someone crapped it up with the chemical treatment. The third photo I posted shows it best, but it extends down the full length of the blade. You're certainly right about there being a lot of discussion here over a poor sword; but I'm very glad for all of your opinions. Harvey

The habaki does indeed have silver clad over copper. Answering another question, the hamon can be clearly seen down the length of the blade; it is straight and can be seen in the 3rd photograph. Probably wouldn't look too bad had someone not put the black crap on top of it.

I can see the blade being a fake, and believe you on the rest being bad too, but the aging on the tsuba, seppa, etc.. is really good in my opinion. I don't know Japanese swords but I thought I had some expertise detecting faked aging. Thanks for the information; obviously I'll pass on the sword. Harvey

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Hello again to this Forum, Please forgive my lack of proper terminology. I have run across another unmarked sword that I believe to be smith-made. This one is about 25.5" long. The temper line appears to be straight but it has a dark wavy design near the edge. Could that have been someone's attempt to 'create' a temper line with some chemical? I thought the temper lines were always white. There are about 3 nicks to the edge and a couple of small spots where it looks like it has worn through the outer skin. The mounts looks to be original but maybe not too early. There is a piece of jade set in the tsuba as well as faint traces of gold. The seller wants $1000 and I figured that, given the condition, that is about $400 too much. Please tell me your thoughts on the sword and what should be paid for it. Thanks, Harvey

Hello to all, I fear this sword is very modern and probably has no value to a collector of early swords. To me it looks WWII or maybe a bit earlier, but I've never seen a short version like this. I hate to bother you guys with a sword like this one but I don't no where else to get an opinion. What is it and what value does it have? Thanks in advance, Harvey

Two more pics

Hello to all, This is the sword I posted a couple of weeks ago. I removed the black paint from the saya and I think it looks better. I also bought some oil of clove and applied it to the blade. I appreciate everyone's advice as well as your opinions regarding its period and maker. This probably won't get me started collecting Japanese swords but I think it's a nice item to have as an example of one. Regards

Mark, I guess I've been living in a vacuum regarding Japanese swords. You surely seem to be right about mid, low and high value pieces. This is the first one I've purchased in 20 years and it's worth about what it would have been at that time. On the other hand, I've been seeing WWII period swords (non-smith made) for sale at really high prices. 20 years ago I wouldn't have paid $200 for the very best factory piece and I doubt I would today unless it were for re-sale. There's a Japanese rifle for sale locally and the seller thinks it's a bargain at $750. Use to a person couldn't give those away.

Stephen, Thanks for the information. The tsuka split well. I removed the old glue that was in the recess for the tang and have glued it back together. It will be clamped for 4 days while I'm out of town. The new shirasaya sounds good (and reasonable) but I may stick with this one since it has some age to it and that's how it came here from WWII. If I had a polish done I'd buy a new saya to preserve the blade. I can already see the flak coming for what I'm about to write......Several of the posts I've read here mention finger stones. Bearing in mind that I have considerable skill repairing US CW swords and their blades (I know it's not the same), how much damage would I be likely to do with finger stones versus the benefits? There are some slightly discolored and a few slightly rusty spots on the blade that could likely be improved pretty easily by the right person. Finally, I got this sword cheap and $2500 is a big profit were I to sell, however, I remember early Japanese swords bringing that, and more, 20 years ago. German stuff, particulary SS swords and daggers, has gone through the roof. What happened to these? How are you guys so lucky as to see prices at a standstill? Harvey

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Sorry about a triple post for one piece but I couldn't find a way to update the title of the thread. I finally removed the tang. Turns out the vet or his kids must have glued the handle together and had glue in the hole for the tang, as it was cemeted firmly in place and could be removed only by splitting the handle along its seam. No wonder I couldn't get the sword to come loose! Anyway, good news and bad. The good news is I got it off. The bad news is that I see no marks of any kind. I might could clean it some and see a mark but I'd probably hurt something in the process. I think it's unmarked, unless the little thing that looks like a US flag on both sides of the shiny part is a mark. I tried to capture file marks, but they are about non-existent along most of the tang. What are there appear to be simply slanting across the tang, back to edge, with no change of direction. What can you guys tell me about this sword? About when was it made? What cost to restore (polish) versus value when done? What would it cost for a new-made full dress scabbard? Harvey

I've already tried what was suggested but that handle is really tight. I'll try again today with something other than my wife's kitchen counter. Mino, Shinto? What is the time frame for this?

The black spots that show up in my photos do not appear to be voids, that go down into the core, but really look like something on the surface that could be easily removed. Sorry for the bad photos. If I could remove the handle a few tang shots would probably tell more than all these put together. Any ideas as to period or maker?

Sorry, two more shots.

Maybe the last..

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Had trouble posting so here are more.

One of you seemed anxious to see the blade. I have no idea what angles to shoot or what is important. One thing is certain, this sword is much nicer then these photos depict. The temper line goes all the way to the tip and bends around to the back of the blade. There is also what appears to be temper in areas of the back of the blade. Another odd thing is what appears to be an extra, but faint, wavy temper line up above the main temper line. I've tried to show it in a few of these shots. Sorry to post so many but again, I don't know what's important to capture. I tried the edge of the counter trick to remove the handle but no luck. Paint stripper worked great on the rest of the scabbard and it looks pretty nice.