Jump to content

robinalexander

Gold Tier
  • Posts

    1,428
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Everything posted by robinalexander

  1. Thankyou again Koichi san Yes Curran...I went through Slough's twice as I also 'believed' it was 'Hide' but couldn't match anything else ... then decided to put it to the big guns...i'll keep working on it. Hello Bruce, yes I'm thinking it's a badly hit Showa stamp as its only half there..pic attached.
  2. Greetings, Would appreciate assistance with this mei ... thank you in advance. Rob
  3. Tks Rich, happy to accept your HO. Rob
  4. Commiserations to all Aus shooters.... RIP my .22 LR semi-auto Ruger (carbine), 10 round circular and flush mag with 25 curved after market mag. Small Tasco scope. Controlled much of the small introduced vermin and built solid shooting skills for the F88 Austeyr later in life. Now that is a nice personal weapon! Rob
  5. Hi Steve,, Don't wish to digress from thread but are you saying that, as a general rule, a short signature (say two kanji) for any smith is less likely to be gimei than a longer detailed one? Rob
  6. Thanks John will try light wax. Yes Jean C you are quite correct....my description was a little loose. Rob
  7. Greetings, Just wondering if anyone has a solution for 'rejuvenating' or at least, preserving, an ishime (orange peel laquer) finish on a Kai gunto saya? Very early signs of cracking but no loss or lifting. Tks Rob
  8. Another example of Red Bean Colour with a std (worn) olive drab. Thanks Shamsy, I always thought I had a bodgey job. Rob
  9. Hi Bruce, Well as luck would have it, this may answer your question as to who put the numbers/scratchings on it. Seems the fitting shop would be my best guess. There are identical (pencil) markings/numbers on the end of the tsuka and directly under the numbers on the koiguchi. 1435 (tks Dan C.) ....so it appears to me to be assembly numbers as Dan C. said. Pretty crude manner of marking though....maybe they were in a hurry to get them out the door and into the field! ( blade is a Nobumitsu, Showa 20th year, 3rd month (Mar. 1945)). George, The other character (katakana) is still a mystery (albeit a very small one now). I dont quite follow your lead with phonetic 'a' sound in terms of it relationship here...it dosnt appear on Tsuka though. I (nievly) thought it was an arrow with a large tail pointing in a specific direction for mounting purposes???....but unfortunately I can easily see such simple signs in real kanji and that just makes it harder for me :-) Rob SORRY IT WONT LET ME LOAD 1 X PICTURE 2.9 mg SO WILL TRY TO SEND IN ANOTHER FOLLOWING MSG.
  10. Hi Bruce, Now that you mention it, I recall some markings just inside the tsuka and will have another look at those tmoz....apart from that no other markings. Strange though, (in my limited experience) that the above markings were seem to have been crudely scatched into the outside surface. Will get back to you. Rob
  11. Hello, Was maintaining a Type 0 (Type 3) and noticed some scratches on the face of the fuchi. On closer inspection it looks very much like kanji? Strange place to have writing unless some IJA Officer decided to put his own mark or message on the face of the fuchi (unlikely ?) More likely to be something I am just not aware of yet. One particular long line (scratch ?) seems to go from the 'kanji' right around the top of the fuchi and then finish with an arrow head. Really no idea but they just seem too deliberate to be scratches, thus my post. Two angles tk try and get the 'message' across. Any ideas would be appreciated.....and no hurry, I will have it for some time :-) thanks Rob
  12. Hi Dennis, Just to add to Ed's note, I have a Kai Gunto with the same finish on the saya (called Ishime). I asked a very knowledgeable sword guy here is Oz and I'm glad to be able to share the information (below) Ishime is a type of lacquer work which during the war was time consuming and expensive. Perhaps not so much on Kai Gunto as they already had a much higher quality of finish overall than Shin Gunto but this type of lacquer on Army swords is associated with better quality fittings. The downside is it's very fragile, especially after 70+ years of temperature changes, wear and tear etc etc. Rob
  13. Wow Neil....that is so nice....I was looking at the blade and completely forgot what the question was :-)) Rob
  14. Hi Kaz Nice collection. Agree with Bruce and Chris re buffer for blades to 'avoid metal on metal' . I've always had a soft spot for late war NCO's and yours are nice but what catches my eye is the 3rd from the top shin gunto with bohi and maybe pierced tsuba....any story there? Rob
  15. Tks Steve havent heard of that one but looks good on face value and will certainly check out ....love any product that preserves and restores and in that respect it dosn't come much higher than leather bound books. Rob
  16. Sticky to start with...use rubber gloves...apply and leave overnight 'to soak in'...i have tried on at least 3 combat sayas with different smooth finishes and it just disappears by next day. Test on small portion first if yr not sure Rob
  17. Hi Matt, I provided some info on this subject a couple of days ago to Jesse.......earlier response copied below (bit messy cut and paste sri)............... Hi Jesse, I researched the same thing a few years ago and finally came up with a product called 'Renapur' Leather Balsam. I also wanted to give my knots and combat sayas the best and while products like Dubbin are very good, I focused more on a product meant for conservation rather than one used for operational reasons. My recollection is that this product was used by more than one large museum for leather conservation. I hestitate to recommend any product to be used in someone else's collection but I will say that I am very happy with it and will certainly buy it again when I need to. By the way you dont use it on the suede side...its only meant for the smooth/treated side but it will soak in. Apply with cotton buds (knots), or the sponge supplied jn the jar (sayas). Good luck. Rob
  18. Hi Jesse, I researched the same thing a few years ago and finally came up with a product called 'Renapur' Leather Balsam. I also wanted to give my knots and combat sayas the best and while products like Dubbin are very good, I focused more on a product meant for conservation rather than one used for operational reasons. My recollection is that this product was used by more than one large museum for leather conservation. I hestitate to recommend any product to be used in someone else's collection but I will say that I am very happy with it and will certainly buy it again when I need to. By the way you dont use it on the suede side...its only meant for the smooth/treated side but it will soak in. Apply with cotton buds (knots), or the sponge supplied jn the jar (sayas). Good luck. Rob
  19. Hello Brian, Yours is a simple message that is both fair and reasonable. Good on you for posting it. Regards Rob
  20. Hello Grev, Along similar lines of Matt H. not peoms, but in my research I have read quite a number of 'final' letters from IJN and IJA officers and NCO's convicted of war crimes at Rabaul, New Britain immeadiately after WW2. Most written on the eve of their execution. Moving. They provide an insight into certain aspects Japanese culture (particularly) at that time. If you, or anyone, was interested I could dig up the link. Rob
  21. Oh well ...tks for looking...seems like this particular 'tassel' remains a mystery. Rob
×
×
  • Create New...