robinalexander

Steve, I agree with Doug and Matt above.... in regard to the current worth or value of this late Type 95 (i.e. US $600 to $850) and $900 would be top end. It is clear that some ebay sellers are asking far more ridiculous prices for these but....are they getting that price? I doubt it. Brian...from my observation, yes, quite often haphazardly stamped certainly more so than earlier Type 95 versions.. Rob

Wow, so essentially its a just a variation on the common fishing hook.

Nice post Baz, sorry I cant answer any questions but I can add one pic and interstingly, the 'rifle' has been identified as a musket. Tachi with mon on saya cover? Rob

Saya throat plus one more pic.....

So here is the third version Type 95 from my 95 orphanage. I live it just as much as the others (it's just different). One side of the saya is in quite reasonable used/aged condition with some olive drab clearly present while the other side looks as if its been lying in water for a long long time. No paint that side but a really 'nice' patina and unfortunately, some heavy rust pitting in places. Tsuka is reasonable with blackened iron fuchi still showing faint Seki Token (???) with Nagoya inspection stamp and Nagoya Arsenal stamp. The blade (number 200395) and the saya throat has suffered from rust, both outside and also where number was stamped. Still trying to apply some x-ray vision to work out if numbers match but that will always be an impossible task. A lot of dark staining on both sides of blade and some heavy pitting (old rust) on both sides of blade mainly (but not entirely) toward the kissaki. No saya inserts when I bought it....metal on metal I'm afraid so I made two and 'bobs your uncle'. Could write my own book on that process! Everything is tight....nice.

Tony if thats your lowest quality 95 I reckon your best must be very good. I will put up my lowest quality tonight ... dont hold your breath, it is very honest but must have been spent the last 70 years in a swamp (looks like the blade may have been eaten away by swamp gas!). Later tonight. Rob

ok Neil...I'll take the one on the far right Rob

Ben this is a good subject and one we should al give some thought to, regardless of age...yes it is an unfortunate fact of life that death can come to any of us unexpectedly Im sure there will be some good ideas on this subject but for your own interest and interest of newer members, there are some great comments and ideas on a similar thread started by Peter Bleed in 2019 .... dont know how to link it but it called What should happen to collections? so should be easy to search on.

Or more likely (but still far from certain ) Ashina clan?

Would it be Kikkawa ?

Thanks John, it just looked waffer thin from the picture.

Nice example Tony and you take good pictures! Rob

Hello Tony, Firstly, sorry for the long answer and I know, it too detailed and also, many have there own proven methods....but I just found myself with more time on my hands today than I thought Nice historical example that has clearly 'been there, done that' and I love that about such WW2 pieces (if they could only talk). Apart from professional polishing of blade (and thats probably not worth it), please don't 'upgrade' the remainder as its very nice as is. On the seppa, yes it looks like it is missing one but, as you say, it could simply be the lack of mekugi. So fix that problem first and see how it all fits and if you still need to tighten things up a little then you could consider a small seppa (original please/no repro's)....or even a compressed leather seppa. PM me if you would like any tips on making a 'respectful of age' mekugi or leather seppa. On the matter of leather preservation...everyone has their own favourites. But for what its worth, I use ' Renapur ' Leather Balsam. I have used Dubbin and similar products and they are very good but Renapur is used by some large museums for their leather conservation and I just wanted something from 'the top shelf'. Some find it too sticky/gluggy and it is, BUT is absorbed over a period of 48 hours or so. Firstly, only use it on the treated side (outside) not the suede leather sides. Use disposable gloves and apply it generously using a piece (cube) of sponge. Slowly and gently. Use a cotton bud for any really small areas that you need to get to but again, slowly and softly. Leave the saya in a moderately warm area for at least 2-3 days and you will see that it has been absorbed. Then you can very lightly buff the outside of the cover to bring up the shine that was there before you started on the smooth/treated sections of leather. When I say 'lightly buff', I mean it. I roll a micro fibre towel (approx. 30cm x 30cm) into something the size of hotdog and then loosely wrap a piece of well worn flannel over that and then very lightly but quickly dust (i.e. like a fast light rub over the whole saya gradually increasing pressure (but only moderately) until you start to see the shine come out. If you feel any resistance when you start then STOP and lighten up. You will reach a stage where there is no resistance on the shined leather but the scuffed leather will always resist this buffing so just leave that alone. You wont shine the scuffed leather and this, and other similar products, will slightly darken the whole saya but that's just restoring to a rich more original tone. It then up to you if you want to apply shoe polish to certain areas but I don't see the need. Now one question for you Tony, the saya drag that is protruding from the leather combat cover looks like a worn drag from a Type 95 but yours is clearly a Type 98..bit confused about the look of that. No question about it being genuine, its just that, from the picture, I haven't seen a Type 98 drag like that before. Other may have an answer for this (probably just my inexperience) but if you don't get a response to this query, could you post a picture of the saya throat and a better one of the drag. All the best. Rob

So if, as Stegel indicates, its human error (and he is a 95 guru)...just jump on it Mario as the rest if the package is nice/honest....and now it could be more collectable! Rob

Jake, I agree with Bruce but would you be able to post a couple of clear full lenghth pics of the blade and saya and the throat of the saya (is it numbered also?) Rob

Keine Ursache

Is if possible someone has simply dissasemmbled the tsuka and put the fuchi back on upside down? Rob

Mario, I have had a better look at the stamps on the fuchi and to me, they may not be correct. The first stamp is Kokura arsenal and what's unusual (or wrong?) about that is I have never seen it come first, in the line of three stamps. Also, it seems to be upside down (???) Interestingly, the fuchi.....(the brass ring that the stamps are on) seems to be the correct way up. Middle stamp could be a Nagoya Army Arsenal Inspection stamp. Last stamp may be Kobe Shoten but I am not very familiar with this stamp. The blade, tsuka (handle) and saya (scabbard) still seems ok to me as are the numbers on the blade and saya throat....but there is something very weird about that fuchi.....therefore better just wait until others on NMB have had a chance tk offer their opinion. Rob PS Welcome.

I am new and have a question.....real or fake? Well my deutsch is better than my Japanese. I reckon it is a very genuine Type 95 early version 2. Nice piece....I would buy it. Rob PS...if you dont write back Mario I will know that my answer will need to be translated for you

Found it also thanks to Francois, just amazing Neil. I reckon you could get lost looking into that.... beautiful. Rob

Hi Neil, always going to be out of my price range but maybe you could post a couple of pics on the 'Show us your high class gunto' thread? Rob

Approximate equivalent of of US $14,300 today.

Hi Charlie, As you may well know, their auction 'legal rider', which every bidder has to agree to, may cover them for any 'embellishment' or possibly even misrepresentation. Tenmoku Auctions Inc. attempts to catalog every lot correctly and will attempt to point out any defects, but will not be responsible or liable for the correctness of the catalog or other descriptions of the lot. If it was a 17th C sword you were after and you really didn't want this one then there is nothing wrong with contacting them straight away outlying you case and include the above proof of age. Its a pretty major piece of mis advertising on their part but nothing ventured, nothing gained...if you don't try you will never know. Good luck.

Wow tks John...subject too big for me but will leave you with a Gosannokiri (3-5-3 same as Neil's) that apparently is Seal of Japan (courtesy Worthpoint).

Neil, does this help ...got it from possibly unverified Wiki source but Toyotomi clan seems to be pretty close to the mark. The Government Seal of Japan, one of the country's national seals, is an emblem (mon) of paulownia used by the Cabinet and the Government of Japan on official documents. It is one of various paulownia mon, collectively known as the Paulownia Seals (桐紋, kirimon) or the Paulownia Flower Seals (桐花紋, tōkamon).[1][2] The seal is utilized in the official emblem of the Japanese Prime Minister and the Cabinet. The 5–7 Paulownia (五七桐, go-shichi (no) kiri) is used as the official emblem of the Prime Minister of Japan. It resembles a stylized paulownia with 5–7–5 flowers. Before the Chrysanthemum Seal was used extensively, the Paulownia Seal originally was the private symbol of the Japanese Imperial Family, from as early as the sixteenth century. The Toyotomi clan, led by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, later adopted the Paulownia Seal for use as the crest of his clan. After the Meiji Restoration, the seal was eventually adopted as the emblem of the Japanese government.[3][4] It is now still mainly used by the Japanese government, as a contrast to the Chrysanthemum Seal which represents the Emperor as the symbol of the sovereignty of the State, and members of the Imperial Family.