robinalexander

Clayton, Looks good to me. Early second version of the Type 95 (with copper fuchi). Stamps appear to be, in order, Suya Shoten Co Ltd, Tokyo 1st Inspection mark and Tokyo 1st Army Arsenal. A lot of wear to the tsuka (handle) with no paint remaining.....sword and saya numbers don't match but neither of these things are the end of the world Rob If I am wrong with this I am moving on to collecting marbles!

Hi Bruce/Brian....I totally agree with Barry. I don't favour a 'fake thread' as I wouldn't like to see NMB become an R & D site for the manufactures of fakes. I recall this has been resisted in the past by some members. So what benefit could that bring? Yes it would be handy to be able to flick newbies a link to save them from themselves (and many of us have been there ) and that would be a nice to have …..but.... I just feel it would be at odds with the whole NMB concept. I am not saying were should stop offering advice on possible fakes as I think its always been handled appropriately (softly softly) but I just wouldn't like to see a dedicated thread that will no doubt keep up to date with the latest fraudulent designs/techniques and publish where they went wrong. Essentially, telling them how they could improve their next batch of fakes. Yes, it would certainly be an interesting and readable thread but these days, with the net being what it is, I just think it would be counter productive to the whole idea of collecting, preserving and enjoying authentic Japanese swords and related items. Rob

Hi Darius, saw you post yesterday and it was still in my inbox today and I note there are no replies. I will take a wild guess and say the reason for that is that this is primarily a Nihonto sword forum as distinct from bayonets. While I'm sure some NMB members would have touched on bayonets over the years, there would be more appropriate forums, specific to bayonets, with members who have the interest and expertise to answer your questions. I'm not speaking on behalf of the NMB, its just my view and if I am wrong...I will hear about it soon enough All the best Rob

Tony, I have a blade in 94 mounts that looks the same (covers the whole blade). It is what it is but that sometimes comes with 80 + years of age. Some may call it patina but whatever you want to call it, I agree with Bruce and Ray. Some 'soft' cleaning products will put a glow on the metal surface (i.e. Nevr-dull) but I am not aware of any that will lighten let alone remove that black staining so either enjoy as is or go down the professional polish path.

Love to hear that story Baz but in the mean time what is SHINGUNTO TANRENSHO? Rob

Wow John, something new every day. That is very interesting.

thats Tadayuki Bruce

Nice Paul, funny how swords such as this turn up from time to time....thanks for sharing. Rob

yes Stephen, I saw some with the Keyser Soze you were referring to but I just liked this one better

Good photos Tony...I am sure I'm not the only one enjoying this. Tks for the time taken so far!

hmmmm Keyser Soze...had to look that one up.

Then I wonder if Aiden has found a similar problem?

Anyone every had a Tsuka that was glued on?

ohh did I mention I have been wrong before

Could be right Chris...in any event, while I do collect a few orphans, personally I would pass on this one. Rob

Interesting. Pierced tsuba and notably the mune (back of blade) appears to be Hira mune and that will send signals to some members but I am just not sure what that means in terms of manufacture place/time. I'm staying with island sword (Burma/Philippines) Rob

Sunny, from the scant pics posted the saya/combat cover appears to be genuine (to me) and by the ito binding and mix of military and 'civilian' pieces on the tsuka, (and I'm going out on a limb here)....maybe an island sword BUT....those two crosses on the tang are real turn off anything genuine in terms of the blade... two wrongs don't make a right . Or on the other hand, they are so crude and clearly not trying to copy anything resembling a Japanese smith, they may just be period island manufacture. Any more pics of the bare blade full length both sides? Rob

Ren. Wax?....I wouldn't at this point....just light oil maintenance until you know more abouf the blade.

Lay the sword down...use a piece of timber with a straight flat face and place it against top seppa (dont go near the chuso pin) and gently tap the timber with a wooden/plastic mallet (or tack hammer) and keep moving it around the seppa until it starts to give and come away from the blade. The seppa, chuso pin, tsuba and tuska (handle) should all come away together and then just work them off (keep them in order if you can). Just take your time and be gentle.

Aiden, Good buy for 400 US in my opinion but I do tend to collect some orphans. To remove peg (mekugi) you need something cylindrical and flat on the end....slightly smaller diameter than the mekugi peg thats in there. Try a large nail and cut or grind the point off,, so its flat and then then lightly sand so there are no rough edges. Then use it GENTLY to 'punch' the peg out. From your pics, it appears that the biggest end of the peg is on the same side as the chuso button (release button). If that is correct, then punch (softly/gently) the peg out from the OPPOSITE side. That is, you would be pushing the larger end of the peg out first. Only one peg is normal for yours. Yep, looks like cosmoline on the blade and everyone has a favourite removal potion but for my money, I would recommend a US product called NEVR-DULL it is impregnated wadding and while remove the old grease and put the blade in a much better position. Will take a lot of rubbing! Wont hurt the blade or impact on any hamon that may be lurking underneath. make sure you wipe it all off when finished each time and lightly oil. Dont clean any rust etc from the the tang (under the handle) maybe post a couple of pics and seek further advice on this point. Rob

Yep I would certainly go into bat for any of those Chris. For me, they are just more desirable. Having said that, I totally understand that collectors are not all looking for the same things in a sword

Chris, It just looks too good to be true. Was it removed from circulation shortly after production? Was it issued to a 'base wallah' who was stationed in Japan for the duration of the war? I am not saying its not genuine and no doubt it will sell for a motsa but but I'm afraid I could not bring myself to bid on it, even if I had the money for this copper 95.. Rob

Chris ... with all due respect that cracks me up I wouldn't like to be talking Nihonto in Deutsch...you do pretty well Rob

Nice clean package Gareth

Mike, Stephen's comment was spot on and if it was obtained in Japan it wouldn't have any surrender tag (linen or wood). Does it have any 'story' or any paperwork? If not, then the only thing I could thing I could think of, and its a loooooooooooooooooooong shot, ( ok, I can hear some members chuckling now ), is that if the blade was 'made for someone' or 'presented to someone' it may be shown in kanji on the tang. I reckon the possibility of that happening is remote to say the least but if its not highlighted then you cant exclude it. So as Stephen says, post a couple of clear pics of the sword, blade and both sides of the tang and this may add something to your question.....or not. We all like sword pics. Rob