robinalexander

and the second script came up as Thai .......

i have no idea about this but I put the following part of the non-Japanese script into a google search and it came up with the following in Burmese .... maybe something or maybe nothing.

Wow Tony it's usually the other way around. I'm sure that one day the planets will align for you.

Looks like a nice genuine example to me Ron. These are certainly not Nihonto but they are a piece of history. This last pattern is less common than earlier patterns and therefore desirable among collectors to 'complete' their collections of Type 95's A little more info here. http://ohmura-study.net/957.html

I guess your talking about the nakago ..... try a course piece of cotton cloth and a little oil ... rub it hard and touch up every few months....it will stop the red rust and will not change the nature of the patina but Autosol will (in the negative).

Hi Ron, I'm with Hamish....no place in my collection for this ..blade or otherwise (and I'm very forgiving). also ..... if you can't remove the tsuka 'without damaging it' .. then unfortunately there is even less chance of ever getting a valued opinion on the blade itself.

A party?

For posterity .....

Here is a grab from Tokyo Customs (hopefully not AI rubbish) .... https://www.customs.go.jp/tokyo/english/yuubin/12touken_n.htm

Hello Ricky, Good on you for asking before 'restoring' As mentioned, I also believe in cleaning of dirt/grease but not patina. IMO there is nothing worse then seeing something genuine like yours that has been polished and buffed so much it looks more like a repro than something that's 'been there'. Having said that, these late war 95's are not suppose to be silver. The previous post on this thread will give you a good idea of the real finish/colour. These are a nice piece of history for sure. Sooo personally, I would be looking at removing the silver paint from the tsuka (handle). I would try Acetone using cotton buds on the grooves and a flattish piece of material etc on the 'raised' sections. As always, try it first on an inconspicuous section (if u can find one) and don't overdo the quantity of Acetone. Time and elbow grease often gives a better result. Oil later. N.B ....THERE IS ALSO MERIT IN CONSULTING SOMEONE IN THE FURNITURE RESTORATION BUSINESS FIRST. I don't know if the Saya (scabbard) has been painted...bit hard to see but if it has, I would have to do something about that too. Again, flat material, even strokes with not to much Acetone....if you go too hard you will remove silver plus any original coat that is under there. Hold off and have a think about this part of 'restoration ' and maybe others will chime in on this particular subject. The blade on Type 95's is just steel and, unlike traditionally made blades (Nihonto) yours doesn't require the same special attention. So clean it up a little and lightly oil but please don't buff it. Shine is ok but buffed blades look ridiculous. Again this is not Nihonto so you will never get that mirror finish and IMO 95's don't need it. The remains of the NCO leather knot is certainly looks genuine ...by the look of it, you may loose it if you try to remove...hard to see condition from photos. If it brittle, I'd leave it where it is....maybe just leather dressing applied gently and sparingly with cotton buds. Finally, not everyone is going to agree with the above so keep asking. Good luck and keep us informed. Rob

Mike, also have a look at the NMB main page....go to Nihonto Info and then Research.... lots of good starters there including Nihonto Kanji Pages and Markus Sesko's (very good) Nihonto Compendium. Better than the game called 'Concentration'

TJ I also like your simple and straight forward approach ...don't aim too high, get something modest in hand and start your research and appreciation from there. Just like your first fishing rod etc. Crawl before you walk sort of thing. Whether a Katana or Wakizashi, just make sure you actually like .... not just 'a good buy'. Plenty of help here.... just keep asking (and read a little too )

Yes Burt, that is a good thing to have on your sword. It's a nice example of genuine stingray skin (samegawa) and having larger nodules around the top of the tsuka (more the better) again shows that these are better than average mounts. Nice package Love your enthusiasm. .

Signed Old Japanese Wakizashi – Bizen no Kuni Osafune Sukesada – Late Muromachi Period An original old Japanese leaf is offered for sale, a wakizashi signed by a member of the renowned Sukesada school, active in the province of Bizen (Japan) during the fifteenth–sixteenth centuries. The inscription on the nakago (spike) reads: 備前国長船祐定 – "Bizen no Kuni Osafune Sukesada". Characteristics: • Blade length (without herringbone): 46 cm • Blade height: 3 cm • Thickness: 7 mm • Total length (with herringbone): 58.5 cm • Condition: frameless, with surface rust and visible nicks, especially on the edge and tip. • There are no visible structural cracks. Requires restoration (Polish, Japanese) if you want to add value. Historical Value: The firm corresponds to one of the most active and productive lines of Japanese swordsmiths of the late Muromachi/early Momoyama period (ca. 1550–1600). This type of blade is highly sought after by collectors of nihonto and authentic samurai pieces. Ideal for collectors, restorers or those looking for an original signed sheet to mount. Price: USD 650 Hand delivery or shipping available. Wakizashi signed in Old Japanese – Bizen no Kuni Osafune Sukesada – Late Muromachi Period An ancient original Japanese leaf is offered for sale, a wakizashi signed by a member of the renowned Sukesada school, active in the province of Bizen (Japan) during the fifteenth-sixteenth centuries. The inscription on the nakago (spike) reads: 備前国長船祐定 – "Bizen no Kuni Osafune Sukesada". Characteristics: • Blade length (without pick): 46 cm • Blade height: 3 cm • Thickness: 7 mm • Total length (with pick): 58.5 cm • Condition: frameless, with surface rust and visible notches, especially on the edge and tip. There are no visible structural cracks. It requires restoration (Japanese polishing) to increase its value. Historical value: The firm corresponds to one of the most active and productive lines of Japanese swordsmen of the late Muromachi and early Momoyama periods (ca. 1550-1600). This type of blade is highly coveted by collectors of nihonto and authentic samurai pieces. Ideal for collectors, restorers or those looking for an original signed print to assemble. Price: USD 650

Maybe its 'oiled' but just kept in 'as found' condition which would be ok by me. According to AI, text reads..... The text on the image describes a Japanese officer's sabre (Shin Gunto) and scabbard, which was given to Mrs. Gautier by the British military mission in memory of her husband, Henri Gautier, a resistance fighter who was tortured and executed by the Japanese. The item was donated by Mrs. Gautier and has the inventory numbers N2990 and N2990.1.

Dear B. Keep working with Jean Collin's idea...it will work. Its the safest and may I say, the easiest. Just adjust the length and fashion a hook from the end to suit. If you have a problem with it, then give it to a capable someone (no offence meant) to have a gentle go.

That's some assumption Will ....I don't think so.

Had the same problem on my Samsung Galaxy S7 but just waited a day or so (or used my desktop instead) and it fixed itself, just as in the past. Annoying but not life threatening.

Doesn't get better than that

Well done Simon...love your work.

Hello Joseph, Putting the Incorrect drag aside for a moment, if the 'matching' number on the saya is the same as the blade then the saya is definitely not for a copper 95. Same as the blade number = not from a early copper 95. In regard to Bruce's question @Bruce Pennington ......." But still curious about the two colors of the handle and how they transition on the edges." I note you have answered that in your comment to Sam on FB (shown below) in regard to the different colours of the Tsuka ...... Joseph [surname deleted] Sam [surname deleted] it's the same handle. One side just seems as if it had been left open to the sun or something for an extended period of time. A copper Tsuka is not going to react like that, in the sun, or in the weather for that matter. So IMO Tsuka is not genuine. Its an interesting one alright and even though I have made up my mind (in the negative) I would still look forward to more pictures when the sword is available to you. Rob

Hi Joseph, This sword came up very recently on FB. have a look at this thread....... Copper handle NCO or fake? https://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/51707-copper-handle-nco-or-fake/ Ask away.

Tsuka looks (too ?) good BUT copper numbers finished in mid 6000's not 13000's . So if blade is genuine, it certainly dosnt belong to a copper. Therefore, maybe put-together but not original copper. Leave it on FB.

I can't take you seriously.