Ooitame

I have tried other lens towels, others seem a bit small. Meaning my fat fingers are an issue 😆.

Hi Stephen, have you tried/use these?

Weird US Amazon does not carry this anymore.

@PNSSHOGUN, thank you seems you can only buy from amazon co.jp Hopefully just as good as the original.

Hi Stephen, these:

Is Microdear still a around, I am having a hek of a time finding them from the usual places? Feel free to pm me if you choose.

Microdear cloth, %99 isopropyl alchohol, quality oil. Microdear is a little pricy but it is the best thing I have found for swords. Even tissues can absorb or let through oils on your skin, or have small pieces left behind which may cause an issue; why I stopped using them. Also of microfiber make sure it is quality and thick, none of the cheap ones. P.S. welcome to the board!

Another idea is to talk to the original togishi if possible. If any doubts talk to any reputable togishi. In any event, good luck and happy holidays!

If acid sodium bicarbonate applied with a q-tip, use extremely small amount sword oil, to make it a slight paste apply to the spot. Let sit so it can neutralize any acid. The sword oil should not be an issue to the Ph. Remove the paste by using oil/alchohol(as noted below) and a spray bottle with something to catch any run or rust that gets loose. Verify it is clean, if any loose particles are on the blade it will cause scratches. Oil the blade as normal once you are sure it is clean. Avoid the spot in normal wiping. Use microfiber and very gently apply oil to that spot. Check back in week or two and see if the rust has changed color, or expanded. Please note this is not professional advise only an opionion how I would go about it... use your best judgment in what to do. May also want to check the Saya for darkspots or if you feel anything rub when re sheathing. A few pics would also help. Also for cleaning %99 isopropyl alchohol, microfiber, or a lense cloth like microdear. P.S. per each iteration let the rust dry, do not want a damp area that will eventually cover the spot with oil over top. Will stop oxidation but any remains residue may continue to rust. The %99 isopropyl will help greatly, but better to be safe.

Agree attribution can be a hold up for papers, had one ZaiMei that was rejected for Hozon with an explanation of further study required. Rare, but it does happen. Seems it has had work done to it, suriage and a polish or two, the Kissaki being so close to the ha lean in this direction. So maybe an older blade. Either way, a good dealer, and nice sword, congratulations.

Someone did a good job of saving that kissaki, congrats!

Intersting Mt. Fuji hamon, not sure about the waves referenced. @JonAre thre more peaks/crests? Could be wrong though.

A good subject we run into often, perhaps a pinned writeup for guidance would be a good idea.

Hi Steve, glad to have you back! The collecting conundrum we hit at one point or another, maybe multiple times.

Looks like a .50cal hit.

Those dark lines along the hamon, oil quenched maybe.

Interesting and unusual, thanks for sharing.

@Seiko Looking forward to the progress and outcome!

Early shinto bizen, is what I wanted to say. Either way, nice blade maybe a new polish will reveal more.

I would venture Shinto Bizen.

Agree with all above, even if not Chinese, it looks oil quenched.

Looks traditionally made, but in very rough shape, try taking photos in a dark space, dark back drop, and an off set light; different camera angles will help to. As an example Use the arrow to open to the correct page/post. Without a mei, and better pictures, it will hard to give a specific smith, maybe school.

Hard to say without more pictures of that area. When in doubt ask, if no response, pass!

Looks Bizen to me, late Muromachi, maybe Sukesada or Sukemitsu. Nice grab, looks great!

@PNSSHOGUN Do these pictures represent what you mention? The last picture may show it best, as zoom may have obscured some.