Ooitame

Or you can come to the show, attend exhibits, listen , learn, ask, and the hands on knowledge is extremely valuable. I usually attend every year with my Nephew. Last year I I brought two swords where I had questions, started asking these questions to those who are knowledgeable and learned many new things. Plus I now have contacts who are extremely knowledged in different areas for when I have questions.

Ok done prepping, cleaning, and re-reroiloing, seems not as thick, or plush. Fibers seem the same. Could be because I bought a smaller size... IDK. Still works like it used to.

Agree, have noticed this throughout Nihinto.

No stash, just using the best I can for my swords. Due to the high humidity I will clean and oil 3 times a year. I used amazon.co.jp to order these. I oiled them yesterday, will give it some time to sink in and try these. Weird as one time I gave the swords a wipe down and seems they had stabilized rust or something off them grey on different clothes. P.S. also special occasions and demo I use these as part of the process or for people to examine the blade. Other cloths, microfiber, tissue, etc... allow finger oil to reach the blade.

Arrived today, red used to be the large . At least I bought three.

Per my understanding, a uchigatana was a mid to short Wakizashi. Explictly made to be used one handed for a secondary sword (if using two in battle), but to be the first sword to draw and strike or block. Unless you are Mushashi, using both at normal size made for two handed welding is very hard to do. I have practiced this style (Nitō Ichi) with boken so much respect to those who can.

Sword shows are great for learning! There does seem to be corrosion, possibly stabilized, but none the less it is there. This brings into question how deep does it go... Seems like a good togishi could fix that. Then, there is the question of which Sukesada. Koshirae looks new. To me I would pass. Save for something in better condition even papered. Either way good luck, and Merry Christmas!

I have tried other lens towels, others seem a bit small. Meaning my fat fingers are an issue 😆.

Hi Stephen, have you tried/use these?

Weird US Amazon does not carry this anymore.

@PNSSHOGUN, thank you seems you can only buy from amazon co.jp Hopefully just as good as the original.

Hi Stephen, these:

Is Microdear still a around, I am having a hek of a time finding them from the usual places? Feel free to pm me if you choose.

Microdear cloth, %99 isopropyl alchohol, quality oil. Microdear is a little pricy but it is the best thing I have found for swords. Even tissues can absorb or let through oils on your skin, or have small pieces left behind which may cause an issue; why I stopped using them. Also of microfiber make sure it is quality and thick, none of the cheap ones. P.S. welcome to the board!

Another idea is to talk to the original togishi if possible. If any doubts talk to any reputable togishi. In any event, good luck and happy holidays!

If acid sodium bicarbonate applied with a q-tip, use extremely small amount sword oil, to make it a slight paste apply to the spot. Let sit so it can neutralize any acid. The sword oil should not be an issue to the Ph. Remove the paste by using oil/alchohol(as noted below) and a spray bottle with something to catch any run or rust that gets loose. Verify it is clean, if any loose particles are on the blade it will cause scratches. Oil the blade as normal once you are sure it is clean. Avoid the spot in normal wiping. Use microfiber and very gently apply oil to that spot. Check back in week or two and see if the rust has changed color, or expanded. Please note this is not professional advise only an opionion how I would go about it... use your best judgment in what to do. May also want to check the Saya for darkspots or if you feel anything rub when re sheathing. A few pics would also help. Also for cleaning %99 isopropyl alchohol, microfiber, or a lense cloth like microdear. P.S. per each iteration let the rust dry, do not want a damp area that will eventually cover the spot with oil over top. Will stop oxidation but any remains residue may continue to rust. The %99 isopropyl will help greatly, but better to be safe.

Agree attribution can be a hold up for papers, had one ZaiMei that was rejected for Hozon with an explanation of further study required. Rare, but it does happen. Seems it has had work done to it, suriage and a polish or two, the Kissaki being so close to the ha lean in this direction. So maybe an older blade. Either way, a good dealer, and nice sword, congratulations.

Someone did a good job of saving that kissaki, congrats!

Intersting Mt. Fuji hamon, not sure about the waves referenced. @JonAre thre more peaks/crests? Could be wrong though.

A good subject we run into often, perhaps a pinned writeup for guidance would be a good idea.

Hi Steve, glad to have you back! The collecting conundrum we hit at one point or another, maybe multiple times.

Looks like a .50cal hit.

Those dark lines along the hamon, oil quenched maybe.

Interesting and unusual, thanks for sharing.

@Seiko Looking forward to the progress and outcome!