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Hi Folks, Am selling my Japanese WWll Army officer`s sword in mountings. The blade is signed "Hachiman daibosatsu, Kasuga "daimyojin Hachiman Bodhisattva Spring Daming god"　"Koki Nisen roppyakusan-nen Haru Yoshimune saku "In the year of the year, (Spring, 1943)", shinogi-zukuri shape, WWll time period made blade. The blade is in old full polish with original ububa, no rust, no stain, no scratch and in mint condition. The temper line is outstanding gunome-choji temper pattern and has deep temper at the point. The forging grain is tight itame-hada and no forging flaws at all. There is no bend, no crack and cutting edge is sharp. The scabbard is heavy metal scabbard, no dents, no bend and in excellent condition. The handle is tight fit, tsuka-ito wrapping is no loose, no cut also in excellent condition. Lock mechanism works fine. It came with orange-red/brown colonel grade sword tassel, no cut, no fade and in good condition. The blade measures 27+5/8" tip to the guard, 26+5/8" cutting edge, 1+1/4" width thickness at the notch 7mm 41+1/2" in mountings. Am looking to get $5,200 + shipping but am open to reasonable offers. If interested PM or send an email to * removed by admin pending verification *

Hello, I've been reading about tips on how to maintain your Nihonto sword lately, Am new here, I just have to share it on the forum. The is most important principle of nihontō ownership is "do no harm." The sword you are holding may be 75, 350, even 700 years old. It lasted through multiple stewards who respected & maintained it, and possibly considered it part of their honor or spirituality. Handle the blade carefully, according to accepted practices, so that future owners can enjoy it. There are two most important points in handling your Nihonto sword The two most important points are as follows: 1. Do not touch the blade with bare skin, talk over it, or breathe directly on it. Skin oils and spittle will rapidly promote rust, ruining an expensive polish and shortening the lifespan of the blade. You can safely touch the nakago (tang) as this part is meant to accumulate an aged patina. 2. Do not attempt any form of repair or restoration yourself; do not sharpen, polish, or chemically treat the blade. Japanese polishers spend ten years in apprenticeship to learn proper techniques. At most, you can use anhydrous (99%) isopropyl alcohol or acetone to strip any dried oil (don't let it touch the nakago though!), washi paper / soft kleenex / blue shop towels to wipe the blade, and a sewing/machine oil or traditional chōji oil (light mineral oil) to protect it. There're Do's and Don'ts, I just have to share this two major points for now.