b.hennick

👍👍

Sad

I have never seen a seppa like that. I have been at this since 1976!

Thanks, we are working on it.

Hi Bruce: It is not my sword. Someone asked me for help and I asked here. There was no mention of serial numbers. I did crop the images and did not see any numbers at all.

His wait list is long. I mean really long. It is worth the wait if you can wait that long.

I've seen a whole issaku koshirae by Natsuo. So there is at least one.

Koa Isshin Mantetsu Saku Showa 18 Spring Thanks Uwe! and Thanks Ohmura san http://ohmura-study.net/913.html

Please help with the translation of this mei.

Hi Barrett, as a fellow Canadian, let me share with you, that in Canada, in almost all transactions for Japanese items among collectors, are priced in USD. We have a sword club in Toronto and at meetings members have things for sale. Almost all are priced in USD. Same holds true when I sell to friends locally.

And none are hagiri.

Takeo Seki is fully trained and lives in British Columbia Canada.

The first one is a tanto. The shirasaya says Masahide. The others are kitchen knives. Masahide was a good smith whose work was faked often. Even if we see the tang and it says Masahide we cannot confirm if the signature is good (shoshin) or fake (Gimei). It looks like the blade needs a polish.

You can unscrew the pin at the top of the tool and use it against the peg. Then use the hammer to tap the pin.

Only if you see active red rust should you put oil on the tang.

Welcome Mark! The journey that you have started is a long and enjoyable one. You are off to a good start B by posting photos of one of the swords.

I use a small piece of cotton fabric to put on the oil. You use a minimal amount of oil. Yes you can oil the gunto blade. Microfiber is used to remove the oil. You should not put oil on the tang unless there is active red rust. If there is is red rust, I would use a tissue to apply the oil.

I have purchased shinto blades that are ubu and others that are not ubu. For me there are a number of factors that affect my decision to buy a sword of not buy a particular sword. For years I collected the Shinto Hizen smith Masahiro and other mainline or sideline smiths. Here is a list of what I look for: 1. Shape 2. hada 3. hamon 4. nakago 5. if signed, I look at the signature. Looking at signatures is a full topic on its own. 6. Horimono 7. mounts I would put ubu in with nakago. Ububa (ubuha) would be put in with shape in that it would be noted when looking at the shape. The newer the sword, the more things have to be very very good.

Hi Brian: I agree that clicking on the orange dot will take me to the unread post. I set up the activity selector to select unread posts. Unread Content BH Showing all content I have not read and posted since my last visit. When I click on the topic is goes to the first unread post. Now it does not. This no longer works. Instead I have to click on the dot. Small but annoying.

Welcome Guilio there is a never ending amount to learn. Enjoy the journey

When I click on a topic it takes me to the first post in the thread not the last.

More please said Oliver....

Mine is green. I have used it for years. It is the best!

Yes! Look up oshigata and you will find out how it is done. Lay the tracing paper over the blade and use magnets to hold the paper in place. Fridge magnets, the flexible kind can work. This has been discussed on nmb before.

Draw on powerless the outline of the blade. Send the cutout to the person who owns the saya. If he removes the screws holding the koiguchi (end cap), he can gently pull the wood insert out. The two halves usually come apart easily. He then can try to see it the fit is close. Some owners would not do this with their saya. Here is a more modern option. Get a 3D print of the blade and send that to him to try it out.