Mark S.

Another product…

I suggest start with isopropyl alcohol (as close to 100% as possible). If that doesn’t work, let us know as there are some other options available.

I’ll make another suggestion to everyone who wants to learn more about stroke counts and the differences between formal/semi-formal/informal forms of writing and Japanese calligraphy. The book is: Shodo - The Quiet Art of Japanese Zen Calligraphy written by Shozo Sato. It is a VERY REASONABLY priced book for what you get. Hardcover and beautifully put together. While not directly related to Nihonto, it really is enlightening to see step by step how different kanji are written, the transition of the same kanji through the different forms, and how the strokes work and are counted. The Zen aspect of the book is extremely interesting as well. I have no monetary connection to the book. However, the author was my chanoyu (tea ceremony) instructor for several years. Such a wonderful person. Sato Sensei excelled in chanoyu, kabuki dance, calligraphy, painting, ikebana, etc. I highly recommend any other books he has written… I have them all.

I also suggest you download Markus Sesko’s Nihonto Compendium located in the Research section at top of this site next to NMB logo. Lots of good info and kanji listed by stroke count.

Thanks… will try it next time.

Ohhhhh… that jumonji yard!!!!!! Want want want….

Another option you can add to the arsenal is 100% pure (or as close as possible) isopropyl alcohol and tissue to clean a dirty blade or even to remove old oil. I use my microdear microfiber cloth to wipe off dust and use to rest blade on when viewing. I try to keep it as clean as possible all the time. I’m not saying I’m right… just saying it is what I do.

Two piece copper… rain on boards? I don’t know why it rotated pics like this?

And if anyone is concerned… I bought a blade from Steven. Blade was exactly as described and Steven was easy to work with. A good person to deal with.

Yes… please add photos of chawan!

One of the comments that was made on IMGUR mentioned CLR & steel wool to get rid of rust or clean blades. Hopefully I am stating the obvious, but PLEASE DO NOT FOLLOW THIS ADVICE!!! If you need help with maintaining these blades please ask here before you do anything.

Shitahara?

I would want to see more pics of kissaki area. Maybe angle of picture? Looks very damaged /mis-shaped? Not sure if it could be repaired/re-shaped during polish?

As always… thank you.

I apologize if this has been answered before. Regarding nagasa, I have seen the kanji for “jaku” (a little less). I would assume the attached kanji is “a little more”? Also, how is this pronounced in Japanese? Thank you

Then I think you did quite well! Probably market value range, especially because it is already papered. If you had to add in the cost of Shinsa or polish, then I would say you might have overpaid. Looks good.

I hope you will not take my response the wrong way because I really do mean to help answer your questions… but it is important to focus on you and your decision to purchase this blade… so here it goes… Q: its related to the yamato tegai kanenaga den and that was the main reason i got it since i really like that style. A: Does it match the style you like in the way you like? Is it a good ‘textbook example’ of what you like about that style? If so, you have met your collecting goal. If you’re not sure and only went by what the blade was attributed to, then you might need to study a little more so you can select a blade based on attribute vs. simple smith recognition. Q: What are your opinions on it? A: Our opinion really doesn’t matter. Do YOU like it? I hope so. What is YOUR opinion of it?… THAT is what is really important. Honestly, you will hear advice that ranges anywhere from “nice purchase”, to “you should have saved your money and bought a juyo level piece” and everything in between. What I am trying to say is, if YOU like it, and can learn from it, or you simple enjoy it, then that is enough. OR are you asking our opinion of whether the attribution is correct? Q: Was it worth the price of 200K yen? A: Sure it was… to you. If you had the money, feel you paid a good price, and like what you bought then that is enough. And really, that horse is already out of the barn. I guess after all this, I wonder… are you having second thoughts? I hope not. I would rather see you enjoy your new purchase.

Steve has always helped me and been gracious with his knowledge and time… so I am not disagreeing with his advice on leaving the nakago alone… but I offer another opinion as well from another source… I do think active bright red rust is a concern. https://blog.yuhindo.com/oil-your-nakago/

Don’t have my references in front of me to help with translation of mei… but here is some interesting info from Markus regarding the different shaped mekugiana on your blade. https://markussesko.com/2013/09/14/the-secret-world-of-mekugi-ana/

Robert Benson is in Hawaii… he should be able to help you out with the decision and who to use. Right now my initial reaction is if they are not financially worth polishing (and I mean no disrespect to the blades), then keeping them in their original mountings really isn’t a big deal. If they were expensive blades in good polish or getting fresh polish, then shirasaya is the way to go. My humble opinion of course.

It is stories like this that remind us why some blades get separated from their papers, koshirae, etc. Things like this happen and not everyone is lucky enough to have someone step in and assist with keeping things together.

I believe the second kanji is “naga”. I’m struggling with the first… possibly “toshi”???

It just seems like the distance between the final mekugi-ana and machi is more than normal (maybe not?) when placed during the last suriage? Just thought an additional machi okuri might account for this… but of course it could have just been done like that. Would be interested to see without habaki.

Always hard to tell from pictures… but I’m interested in the nagasa and length of nakago. Blade has been shortened quite a bit but the nakago was left relatively long. Shortened twice and then machi okuri?

I hope my post doesn’t come across as condescending only because I wasn’t sure how detailed you need the information or how much you already know. I’ll assume you know this is a Fujishiro paper? I’m attaching the breakdown of the translation that Geraint gave you… not because I want to copy… but he answered you while I was still working the translation. It takes me a while and I have to really search for the info. Hope it helps and this isn’t seen as just ‘copying’.