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Mark S.

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Everything posted by Mark S.

  1. Thanks. I only bid it as a mumei mounted yari, so I figured I would get out bid. Not broken up about it. Just figured I would ask.
  2. I find when I apply oil, no matter how thin a coat I think I put on (usually apply it, even it out, and then wipe it a second time with a new, dry tissue) that I still have to check it the next day and wipe the blade again with a new tissue. The oil seems to ‘bead up’ and needs another wipe to even it out again.
  3. So wondering how bad I screwed up by not bidding high enough??? Yari on local auction site. Naotane??? Gimei or Shoshin? How high would you have bid based on pics? Going rate for a real Naotane yari?
  4. Not sure what it is? I was in a resale shop today and for $3 I felt I should save it! It’s real lacquer but the ravages of time and/or abuse make it probably worth only the $3… but I felt sorry for it and it followed me home. Probably just a touristy piece. Thoughts?
  5. All, I asked Brian to upload an article titled “Swords of the Tea Masters” in pdf format. It was in a periodical called “Chanoyu Quarterly” which is now out of print. While not in-depth Nihonto info and written more for a tea ceremony practitioner audience, some might still enjoy the read. You will find it in the ‘download’ section. Hope you will find it interesting. Mark S.
  6. I didn’t want to state the obvious so as not to come across as talking down to the OP, but now that it has been mentioned… you usually (unless very loose) DO need to hold the button down when trying to remove the blade. It may be the reason the tsuba is loose and you hear the rattling noise, but blade is not coming out?
  7. A long time ago I heard about ‘face oil’ used on iron tsuba which I have used with some success. I do the same for nakago each time before putting a blade away. I give a quick wipe of my fingers across forehead and on either side of nose and gently rub on nakago. Seems to work nicely. People’s body chemistry varies, so your mileage may vary.
  8. Woody Hall (student of Mr Benson) is in Vegas if that helps.
  9. Interesting habaki. Shakudo? Seems like copper with patina worn away, but also some gold?
  10. And usually if you find a blade under-priced, it usually requires polish, shirasaya, Shinsa, etc. that push the price to, or beyond, market value. Even ‘under-priced’ items should be something you like. Luckily I keep what I buy, so I buy what I like, and if some additional costs push it beyond its market value… well at least I am enjoying the $$$ I spent on myself for my enjoyment.
  11. Mike Virgadamo is another option.
  12. Been better last night and today or so.
  13. You might want to reach out to Woody for his opinion. If you’re going to get it polished anyway, then catching the rust early may be better than waiting. Mailing it with a heavy coat of oil should get it to him in good condition. He can give the best recommendation on how you should send it. And if I was worried about early rust causing more permanent damage, I would rather have it in the hands of the polisher who knows how to keep the blade stable until polish. All just my humble opinion.
  14. I usually access the NMB on my iPhone. For about the last week or so, NMB has been extremely slow and sometimes just freezes and won’t go any further. It has been very hit or miss. Anyone else having issues?
  15. If you have a price in mind, you can try to sell it in the ‘for sale’ section of this site. Good pictures are a must. If you are asking ‘what price?’, I will have to let others answer that. Also, if you do sell it and are unsure of the best way to package it for mailing, PLEASE ask here. Blades which are not packaged properly can be damaged in transit, or worse, injure someone.
  16. And finally, a couple comparison pics to show what can be revealed by a trained polisher.
  17. Additionally, there are a few ware and I am trying to determine if the larger spots in the picture are shigane showing through?
  18. So as we know, not everything is always peaches and cream when a blade is polished, and I’m not here to hide anything. There was an unfortunate fukure on the blade that opened a little more. It is what it is. Both these pics are the same fukure.
  19. General pics
  20. Boshi
  21. Overall pics
  22. So my second blade has come back from polish by Woody. This Morishige blade was discussed a while back. Here is the link to that thread. ‘Before polish’ pics are there. Please find ‘post polish’ pics in the next several posts. Once again, I couldn’t be more please with how the blade turned out. Woody was excellent from start to finish. I can’t recommend him highly enough. A couple comments about my horrible pics. As with the last blade, the bright LED lighting does a good job showing all the activity in hand, but causes a lot of issues with the photos. It seems scratches and smudges and other anomalies ‘magically’ appear which are not there with blade in hand. Also, the burnishing of the shinogi-ji and the polisher’s marks in the machi area tend to ‘wash out’. What I’m trying to say is the polish is excellent… my pics suck. A couple other points. The very tip of the kissaki was damaged and needed repair. The nagasa of the blade went from 51.5cm to 51.26cm after polish. Original weight of blade was 460g and went to 455g post polish. Hopefully, the 2022 Shinsa in Chicago will happen and we can determine a little more info about this Morishige.
  23. Thank you. Yes, the first two are 9 sun. If anyone can help with second two, I would appreciate it.
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