Mark S.

I am the last person to like change… but I think this one will work out just fine.

I’ll post a more detailed list of results in the near future… but, 8 out of my 10 items passed yesterday. One of my fails (Hizen Tadahiro katana) I pretty much knew was a no go, but wanted to get an opinion on what it was. The team still felt it was a Shinto Hizen blade, just that the signature was gimei. The other fail was a saiha (retemper). That one surprised me a bit. But, oh well. My best score of those that passed was 77. I have a daisho set of tsuba going today. We shall see.

You would have to ask if there are any extra available slots open. While it does happen, it is very much on a cases by case basis. You are also competing with people who buy a blade at the show and want to submit at same time if possible. It never hurts to ask.

I ‘think’ (and I use that term loosely) the shinsa team started yesterday for mail-in items and for people who could drop off early? I could also be completely wrong. But the show officially starts today.

Results not what you hoped I take it?

Care to elaborate?

Wishing everyone (including me) good luck and good results at the Shinsa!

As always… really looking forward to it!!!

Two separate organizations and two different certificates although they are similar in layout, appearance, and information presented.

Now on to which items to shinsa. I would choose the first two blades you listed. The third blade has a bit of damage (hard to tell from the photos) and unless it’s something special, I would want to know more about the first two. I do not know as much about ‘good’ tsuba (just admitting my limitations) so I will rely on others to steer you in that direction if they feel the tsuba & artist are noteworthy enough. It’s just out of my lane to give you that advice and I don’t want to steer you wrong.

It doesn’t have to be perfect… it just has to be good. And I know you received the letter, but just to reiterate some of the info - remove the habaki and completely clean the blade of all oil. You want the shinsa team to see the bare blade in as clean a state as possible. You do not need to cover the nakago with anything, it should be exposed out of the paper shirasaya. And another important thing… CASH ONLY for the paperwork if the blades pass. They are not set up for credit card. More than one person has had to run to the ATM at the last second. Seen it in person at my last shinsa event that I attended so it does happen.

Mr Paul Martin gave an excellent primer in making a paper shirasaya. You can get away without using the extra reinforcement. The paper shirasaya for shinsa is there for 2 reasons; 1) to protect the shinsa team 2) to safely get the blade to and from the show No need to overdo. You will throw out afterward.

At the very top of this site next to the NMB logo there are 3 lines. Click on it and go to both the Nihonto Info and Downloads section. There is a wealth of FREE information right there. I highly recommend downloading the Nihonto Compendium by Markus Sesko. Then move on to Markus Sesko’s website and there are all kinds of books to purchase. The downloadable books are less expensive and at certain times of year he offers large discounts (usually X-mas, but there have been others). The A-Z of Smiths, the Koto, Shinto, and Shinshinto Meikan, there is a breakdown of schools book (sorry, don’t remember name), and the Encyclopedia are good references. Sooner or later you will be recommended “The Connoisseur's Book of Japanese Swords” by Kokan Nagayama and “Facts and Fundamentals of Japanese Swords” by Nobuo Nakahara Others will give their ideas as well.

Does the nakago condition and shape match the picture on NBTHK THozon papers? If they papered it this way, then at least they felt condition was rather good.

Dew on ginkgo leaves?

It doesn’t look like a mei in that last photo, and it wouldn’t ‘curve’ around the mekugi-ana like that. It could be real?… but it is in very poor condition and the ability to restore is questionable. WAY too many unknowns to blindly make judgments on, not even sure I could do it in hand. Of course this is just my opinion, but I would pass unless they are practically giving it away which is unlikely.

I know it is a minor point, but even the habaki was tailored to fit the hi on the blade. Someone thought highly of this blade.

Very much like it. Well done.

It may be easier to make the glue from rice powder? A little more controllable. Here is a link:

Steve, I really appreciate your time to put this into the proper context for me. You are always extremely generous with your time and knowledge. Mark

Shinsa paperwork and tickets arrived in mail yesterday. If you are submitting items, keep a lookout for your envelope. Thanks to Chris B. and looking forward to the show.

Which is why I stated: “He is recommending the use of paper bands so you won’t be tempted to try some other type of glue or adhesive.” There is a specific reason a specific type of ‘glue’ is used.

Thank you (as always) Steve. I have seen the last two characters referred to as “o tsuruku” and “tsuruku kore”. Based on the context of “made for”, are either of those two correct, or would they read as something else?

Just to add a bit to Grey’s wonderful information, the storage scabbard (shirasaya) is designed to be taken apart if necessary for cleaning and the proper ‘glue’ he mentions is basically a paste made from rice. He is recommending the use of paper bands so you won’t be tempted to try some other type of glue or adhesive that is too permanent and then the scabbard is ruined if it needs to come apart later, or worse the blade is damaged if some of the uncured adhesive gets on the steel. For the peg (mekugi), another alternative to the chopstick is a bamboo knitting needle. They are usually very hard bamboo, fairly well made, and come in several diameters. You will still need to cut and whittle a bit for a good fit.