Bruce Pennington

Wow, John, I think you've uncovered your next career! But, I asked because I was wondering if that guy in the photo was Brett.

Thanks Adrian. Any chance of getting a straight-on, clear shot of the shop stamp at the top of your tsuba? I don't recognize that one.

Thanks Conway! I had this one from last month, for sale at Gunbroker, but their pictures weren't good enough to see the yamagata. Chart, updated thanks!

Is this someone we might know???

Congrats, Ashely! What was your technique for getting it off? You might remove the hand guard and other parts to check for stamps near the top. Oh, and just another example of how far the AI computers have before they can be relied upon concerning Japanese swords!

Adrian, Do you have fittings, or just the blade? If fittings, please check the metal pieces - tsuba, seppa, fuchi, etc for a a stamped number. If there, they might match the 44 on your blade. I have a number of blades with stamped numbers. When oriented like yours, vertical numbers, blade tip up, they are dated in the 1943-44 years. Don't know the significance. I suspect these were put there by the fittings shop to keep matching parts together. But we don't actually know. They could be contract numbers, or something else. I might also add that the other blades around your 44 number are blades made by Yoshiharu and the file marks look the same as yours. Although the nakago jiri (tips) are shaped different. Here's a Yoshiharu, though, with a similar tip, made in 1944, #200

I'm glad Ian commented on this, and glad I'm wrong! I often get into trouble when I'm commenting on swords out of my normal field of study. Thanks Ian!

I suspect this was made very late war, possibly in occupied areas. It appears to have originally had a haikan (belt hanger) where I've put this arrow, and likely a leather cover that is now missing. The tsuba (hand guard) was made to go with a leather cover, as it has the side-hole for a leather retention strap. It is only because of your knowledge that your grandfather brought this home that I say this, as the workmanship of the blade and fittings doesn't really match Japanese qualities. Without your provenance, I would have assumed it to be a replica made for tourists. I don't mean any disrespect as this is a family heirloom brought back by your grandfather.

This is the main part we need to see. If the photos are too big, you can try the Edit function on your photo viewer to crop them a bit. If that isn't enough, google "free photo resizer" and you can reduce the MBs of your photo.

Ok, we do run into that now and then. Problem is these often got dirty inside, or wet, and grit can hold the parts in place. Also, sometimes the fit can be a little too tight where the nakago goes through the spacers/guard. I wrap a thick cloth tightly around the blade, so I can grip it with my left hand, and use a rubber mallet, or block of wood, etc, to give a moderate 'whack' on alternating sides of the guard. You won't hurt anything be doing this. And you'll see that you are able to dislodge them so they will slide off.

Example of the leather officer belt, Field grade and General officer, posted by Squale69 at this Warrelics thread.

Yes. I don't think anyone has an idea, though. I did just come across a similar one posted by Akira Komiya on this Wehrmacht-awards thread. Like yours, Ian, it has the sword loop, or holster, a pocket for the mekugi nuki, and on the right you see a buckled arrangement that I bet served the same purpose as your item in question:

While we wait for better photos, I can tell you that the tsuka (handle) and tusba (hand guard) are of the contingency model variation of the Army officer sword. No official nomenclature, but commonly called the Type 3 Army officer gunto. The saya (scabbard) has been switched to this field saya, which was wood covered with leather. The leather covers often go missing over the decades. The style was designed in 1938, released to the public in 1940, but never got popular until 1943/44. Like the guys said, that screw in the handle comes out easily, then you must tap/push the bamboo peg out. I circled this side of it. You'll want to push it out from the other side. The other side may be under a section of wrap, but it's easy to slip something pointy under the wrap to push it. Here is a picture of one of mine showing how to reach the peg: The handle and guard will simply slide off once these two are removed.

Kris, welcome to NMB! Do you know if he served at the end of the war and/or during the post-war occupation? Any idea when/where he picked this up? I don't study civil blades and fittings, so take this with a grain of salt, and I could be wrong, but the metal-work of the fittings strike me as something made for tourists and souvenir seekers. But they guys that know those things can chime in to clear me up or confirm. The blade looks legit, and possibly made during WWII for the civil market. If you want the blade experts to evaluate it, take some shots of the bare blade, on a dark surface (light surfaces mess with the auto-light-sensing camera functions). A couple close shots showing the hamon (temper line) if you can see it, and one of the blade tip. Measurements, like in this chart, will prove useful too.

From the Warrelics thread, linked above, Akira Komiya has posted regulation three regulation changes and comments. I found it interesting that prior to 1912 the officer belts, on reverse side, were to be colored leather (blue & red). Don't think I've ever seen an example of that. Also interesting was the depiction of Warrant Officer belts: "Here are drawings from the Meiji 19 (1886), Meiji 45 (1912) and Showa 13 (1938) uniform regulations showing the evolution of officers' and warrant officers' sword belts. (There were no changes to the specifications in the interim uniform regulation changes.) The biggest change is that until the 1938 regulations, warrant officers had their own sword belts; non-cavalry warrant officers with a single layer leather belt without backing nor the hook and eye adjustment, and the hanger straps lacking the carbine hooks of officers belts, and cavalry warrant officers having a leather hanger strap with carbine hook in lieu of officers chain hangers. The obverse was specified to be 護謨革, rubber coated leather = patent leather before the Showa 13 regulation changes when it became plain black leather (calf leather). The reverse of non-cavalry officers sword belts were initially specified to be of the appropriately colored leather, red for generals and field grade officers, blue leather for company grade officers, but from the Meiji 45 specifications it could be either colored leather or woolen material. The Showa 13 (1938) regulations done away with the warrant officers' sword belts and warrant officers were to wear the same belts as company grade officers with a blue backing. Also, the Showa 13 regulations show only a single hanger strap in accordance with the adoption of the Type 98 sword with a single hanger ring. "

Here is another unusual field belt posted by Geoff Ward on this Warrelics thread. It has a pocket for a folding knife with can opener:

Linking Ian's post, @Ian B3HR2UH showing field belts with unusual features:

Ian, I'm just now starting to learn about the belts, so I'm of no use here. Hopefully, someone will recognize it. I've linked your post to the pinned reference thread on sword belts. I'm starting to get the idea that these canvas field belts were highly customizable. I've posted one on the other thread with a folding knife in a small pocket

I don't want to expand our forum into uniform and field gear items, but sword belts are a popular item for guys and they are directly associated with military swords. I think anything with the word "sword.." in it's name is fair game, right? So, I've created this to be a reference thread for sword belt collectors, just like the tassel thread. Both the Fuller and Dawson books have a section on them, which I've just gone through. NCO belts were brown, all leather. These were posted by Kohima on this Warrelics Thread. There is no colored liner on the backside, as in officer belts. There is an officer belt that has no colored fabric on the backside, called the Sam Brown belt, discussed on @kissakai's thread here: Also discussed on this Warrelics Thread. They were Navy: According to Adachi, "Regarding the Sam Brown belts, they are regulation as per the naval landing force uniform regulations set forth in 1933. They are supposed to be worn by all NLF officers, even when the sword is not in use. They had already become a defacto standard by at least 1927, as almost every NLF officer in Shanghai had one." This is an example (as far as I know!) of a normal Navy belt. Posted by @tokashikibob HERE. Army officer belts were black with blue or red fabric liners. Company grade were blue, Field grade and General officer red. Posted by @IJASWORDS HERE. This picture actually shows a four army styles (from bottom) - Field grade, Company grade, NCO, and canvas Field belt, which I believe is an officer belt.

You can read up on the Navy kaigunto here: Naval Officer Sword - Ohmura Site Care and cleaning: Japanese Sword Care Navy swords sell for a bit more than army gunto as there are less of them to be found. On average, they can start as low as $1,800 USD but normally sell for over $2,000. If it's got a valuable blade, it can go even higher. So, it's important to see what's in it. They are welcome to offer it for sale on NMB's For Sale: Edged Weapons page. Otherwise you are looking at ebay or one of the many auction houses.

Supporting that idea is the nut securing the nakago on the pommel. Yes, right out of Dawson's book, pages 303-305. Identical. Dawson says the police were divided into Patrolman, Sergeant, Lieutenant, and Superintendent. This is the Patrolman/Sergeant version.

Rats. That is the difficulty in trying to find replacement parts. Almost every gunto had parts specifically fitted for it, so there is quite a range in almost every one. I don't see a problem with the spring resting on the wood, unless it doesn't push the button up high enough. You might try raising the surface of the wood by laying something firm between the wood and spring, like a piece of sheet metal or plastic. Otherwise, you're stuck with buying multiple latches, if you can't get a refund.

No, I use the thread for educational purposes. All are welcome, though, to post tassels that expand our knowledge and data base.

Not in as good of condition as John's, but another kaigunto with black leather cover. For sale on this St. Croix Blades page.