huntsinmtns

Hi Grey, he is a good cabinet maker and fixes my antique rifle stocks with great success using titebond, he said he being careful because the wood is old and I told him to use elmers, he wanted titebond. So as it stands I am glad I can get it back apart without damage. I like your suggestion, I will try it. What part of MN are you in, I am in WI, I do a lot of muskie fishing up north and grouse hunting, I could drag it along sometime ? Oh I can relate to amateurs, do you know many people think they are machinists or welders. Scary. Regards George, Sr. Tool maker

I am so used to hearing fake in the US on WW2 or civil war era firearms, immediately it is junk or tainted, the value is gone. Same as restored, Thank you for the clarification, George

Dr Fox, that makes me feel better, thank you. I will let mine separate again, as it is on its way. Very nice display with the sword like that. George

I see your point, if it is consolation it is not sticking, the top where the blade goes is already splitting at the seam, apparently elmers is not strong enough. That would be like me storing a Pre WW1 Luger in the holster. Regards, George

All he did was use Elmers white glue, no acids as far as I know, very safe ( no seepage inside nice clean lines and Joe said to let dry a few days, sword is not in it yet, I even left all the tape marks on it ) ). I thought I had made a informed decision that I took it as the sword was not valuable, except to me, did I read into this wrong ? Fake mei but early sword, not worth much, I am confused again. Thanks George

I will follow the advice you guys given me , the fact the makers mark is fake deters me from proceeding any farther ( it does seem to be a quality steel and some real work went into making it, being a toolmaker I can appreciate that, fact that one of my best friends gave it to me and his dad brought it home, is more than enough reason to keep it, so no financial incentive ), I love the history of when and where it may have used or by who, I collect Lugers and Winchesters have for 35 years now, I have some lesser condition ones that I received from vets or family and have never touched so the sword will stay in that category as a historic weapon. I attached three more pictures of questions that were asked one for the shinogo and the other for Martin on the shinogi, I think these are the areas. Regards, George

I had a cabinet maker friend glue it back together he used Elmer's wood glue and fishing line no clamps, he is my go to guy on broken Winchester or other rifle stocks. George

The scabbard as received. Forgot to post it. George

Yes I seem to be rushing some, the broken tip is what bothers me most, the scabbard that came with it I already glued back together, better than the electrical tape holding together. In the meantime I look around the site and do more research as to avoid a costly mistake. Thank you, George

Hello, new guy here never had a Japanese sword before, so I am very concerned with preserving this one. I had posted on another for firearms and a lot of guys said to come over here. So here I am with my sword. this is what I can tell you guys the blade is 28.5" from where the munemachi to tip of blade, I did not measure it OAL I can if needed, I was told it is gemei marked blade of Kuniyuki ( was told their are a few of them ). The tip is broken but fortunately their is plenty of hamon on the boshi, ( I am really trying please be patient with me ), approx. 18-19th century manufacture. Should I have it retipped and polished ( some people offer a preservation polish for the not so collectible ), if so, does the sword warrant it. I apologize for all the questions, really need to make informed decision. Best Regards, George