Alex A

Id bet $50 its by a Sukesada, possibly another like Norimitsu, its Bizen Muromachi.

Looks to be a chunky sword, from the images and not reading the measurement i assumed it was a lot shorter than it is.

Id be surprised if that wasn't already there. Sometimes you just don't notice little marks, then notice them later.

Well done Colin!. Difficult from those images but the kogai has a bit of a Ko Kinko feel about it. As for the Tsuka, Bal does great work, perhaps ask him.

Hi Lukas, usually never a problem with swords leaving the UK. Parcelforce Global priority has been a reliable service, you will NOT get insurance for antiques though. UPS worth looking into, maybe they insure, i don't know. Make sure the package is worded correctly with the correct customs tariff number, a thread on here somewhere about that. Cheers

If it were Spider rust, would avoid. Was told an horror story once where it just kept coming back after polish.

Hi Okan. My comment was just a general comment. What i meant is we cant just ignore the fact that there are so many old swords still around and that they were handed down, worn, handed down again. Hence another reason why you see oddball "Daisho" listed, as above. To order a matching daisho, yes, expensive for a lower Samurai with the likes of the smiths mentioned. Remember reading of Samurai having to sell their swords in another article. I guess there were places that catered for those on a budget, as always. Perhaps swords that did not turn out as planned could be bought cheap etc etc etc. Its the kind of history we never get to read about, seldomly anyways

I dunno about not being able to afford it, more likely not a match as passed down.

Anytime i see that list it always reminds of that phrase "its not a true daisho" Looks like some Samurai cared little also.

Interesting sword Colin, Seems rare that style of blade with that particular nakago-jiri.

Hello, the shape, Bo-hi, hada reminds me of a blade that would date to around 1600,ish. Hamon,hada remind me of Mino. Not factual, off the top of head, just a thought as your blade reminds me of one i own from that era.

I am not saying its the case here Colin, but besides "lady or merchant", ive seen similar Aikuchi fittings described as possibly a gift for the birth of a child. Tanto in those cases were small too. Just a thought, as looking at it reminded me.

Hi Colin. Reminds me of Sue Seki

Dan, you successfully proved that a ceremonial sword can in fact be cast/hammered. 99.9 % here are clueless on such matters, i guess that's why there is not much response. Old skills get lost through history.

Hi Dave, il leave this subject with your last words, i certainly would not dunk anything i own.

As mentioned, it may well prevent someone ruining a blade, surely as a physicist you can get your head around that and shouldn't go around giving out risky advice. As mentioned, not even any after care advice. I'm no physicist, true, but know there are safer ways of heating expensive steel than dunking it in water. Maybe you should do a search of rust/blades after polish. Seriously, cant believe this topic has not been locked and a warning added in big red letters.

Dunno if this helps but ive found over recent years that dealers use UPS for shipping antique firearms Paperwork needs filling in about why you are importing it and what exactly it is. They have their own customs and have been very professional on 4 recent purchases, though not from Japan and not sure whether antique firearms are as big deal for shipping to the US. Saw a recent vid on youtube and it stated antique firearms in the US are not even classed as firearms. talking about non-cartridge/muzzleloaders.

Thinking about it, id say a lot depends on the blade Jacques. Can imagine something like a modern steel bamboo chopper drying out a lot faster than maybe an old koto blade that has its fair share of loose grain and small openings. Guess its not a one size fits all. I don't know how much water may be absorbed into a blade. ps, how do you know your blade as reached the correct temp?, guess maybe you have some kind of thermocouple in your lab maybe? Perhaps with a thermocouple folk wanting to heat the sword without the use of hot water could do, as mentioned earlier Anyways, just thoughts, no physics expert here Cheers.

Hi Jacques, What you or anyone else does with their blades has nothing to do with me, just making the point to seriously keep an eye on the blade afterwards, for a good while. As mentioned, seen threads with regards rust staining after swords have been polished. If people want to treat their expensive arty swords the same as their bamboo choppers, then that's also their business. If anyone does soak an antique sword in the bath tub and has issues, don't say you were not warned. Remember, lots of people read here looking for tips, even overly eager beginners getting a little pedantic over a slight bend Point made, Cheers.

Hi Colin, thanks for the heads up. Any bargains on the knife front ? Happy New year! Ps, Preston arms fair in January, i think

Hi Jeremy Will explain. Steel is porous, also, we don't know about the blade in question. Is it full of open grain?. You may well think you have dried a blade off but that's where that story ends and where a thread about rust starts Seen quite a few threads on here with regards folk not taking care of blades properly after a polish, which as you know allows water into the pores of the blade. Rust spots can appear within a very short time and stain the blade. Even read of blades arriving from the polisher with rust spots. Remember a real horror story where someone put a blade away after receiving it back from polish, forgot about it for a few months then had a real big issue. My point was about inexperienced folk that may well be daft enough to think a blade is dry after submerging it in water for a few minutes, sheathing it, then dealing with the consequences. Do a google, im not making it up. As always, horses for courses. Just though worth a mention before someone does something they regret.

It can be really difficult to try and narrow a blade like this down to one particular smith. Tried in the past but sometimes there is little difference between the work of two or three smiths that worked in succession Through books you get hints or clues, sometimes see a particular smiths blades described as having a "blackish jigane" etc etc. Its an old signed blade in good condition, sometimes part of the hobby is being able to accept the amount of info available. It can be frustrating, but that how it is. Ps, OP, looked and maybe missed it but don't think you mentioned length of blade

Jacques, reading your instructions above, i cant help but wonder if it is totally necessary to add soaking in water into the equation I'm not advocating any DIY straightening. Would suggest not buying any blades with bends or if a tiny bend, live with it. Could you not just put a towel over a not too hot radiator or heater and leave it there for a while ? The thought of inexperience and "soaking in water" makes me cringe.

DHL have a bad habit here of just leaving parcels in unusual places. Had a book delivered from the US this week, i gets an email notification saying your item has been delivered and for a few minutes im walking around the house asking if anyone has seen it. Then i thinks DHL, could be anywhere, from inside a bin to thrown over the fence. I goes outside and its hidden behind a plant pot with no note trough the door and soaked from the rain. Luckily the seller put in in a plastic bag. They really don't care As for Parcelforce and Coventry, try and avoid if possible. Said before, UPS have their own customs and never had an issue. Sometimes when something is sent from the US to UK by USPS, it goes through Heathrow and Coventry never gets a mention on the tracking.

Dan, admire your tenacity for getting stuck into this, Some good finds,