Alex A

You know what, sometimes when books/folks talk about mei you would think they were talking about mass produced machine stamped, like Sam Colt stamped on a pistol or something. Even with those you see oddballs where someone did something assways, human nature, worn punch etc. So when you add the human handcrafted/inscription into the equation then i guess that opens up many doors for discrepancies over a long period of time with much unknown thrown in for good measure. Someone once said to me, you would need a time machine.

When everything about the sword matches that of the smith/school but the mei is SLIGHTLY off. Don't know about you but that sets me off on a whole world of speculation as to why that may be the case. Busy forge, Dai mei etc. Must be a number of authentic swords noted as gimei. Many rational reasons why but guess they have to have boundaries. Could live with such a sword, probably wouldn't be too bothered about sending it to shinsa. Though obviously price would have to reflect lack of papers, for potential re-sale. Some folks rely on papers for every blade they own, for one reason or another.

Nothing wrong with an educated punt, good luck with that. There are folks that are happy enough owning swords without papers, confident of their own knowledge enough so they don't need another opinion. Think certainly there are swords that don't need papers It is interesting to meet different folks with differing opinions regarding papers

To me it looks a good blade but appears it wont take any more polish

Hi i was referring the images above my comment, the little oval defect appeared to be a dint, to my eyes. Bottom picture, left at first glance appears to be some difference, darkness, possibly core steel beginning to show. On old swords, acceptable in moderation. Can expect stuff like this on very old swords, part of the reason that got me more interested in Shinsakuto.

Shintetsu, core steel Japanese SWORD FLAWS (japaneseswordindex.com) Oh sorry, you mean the little marks, just look like a dint and a crack, not serious but depends how fussy you are.

All i will say is that i think i have seen more Tadayoshi gimei pass through here than any other smith name, You see some on blades that are obviously Hizen but the mei looks real bad. Others on blades that look more Sukesada. People always say "buy the blade, not the papers", but there's a time when they are needed, from what I've seen.

Think it may have been an ishido sword. Anyways, yes it happens. Possibly more on blades with more exaggerated curve when shortened, never really thought about it Not a great example below, but get the idea. The one mentioned above cut a lot more of the mei off.

You know what, do remember one on Aoi a few years ago with most of the mei running off the side. Thought it was a bit weird, but never really give it much thought since.

That's fantastic.

Could do with a pic Mei can appear cut off in various ways after shortening.

With what's available you have to assume its gimei. and price accordingly.

Good job, impressed,

To me, judging by the nakago it looks old, not Shinshinto. Ana appear old and the varying surface to the nakago appears genuine. From what ive seen of most Shinshinto trying to be Koto, they never pull it off that good. Cant really tell from those images but looks to be Mitsu Mune, so taking that in plus the hada etc id be looking to see if it fits a shortened Muromachi Shimada sword or any others. Good luck with your research and possible purchase.

Ive always associated the use of foreign steel with rather bland looking hada, but maybe thats because ive never really looked that much into the smiths work that were involved with it.

Its like modern art, interpret that question how you want?

Aye, i get that. Was lately drawn to a Tadayoshi wak that was a notare/gunome With such ideas you need to think of resale, i guess many wont steer away from the typical. It seemed cheap, perhaps that's the reason why. Anyways, the sword above you would struggle to re-sell.

Hi Sam, used a tiny amount of Parker Hale Express gun oil since i started collecting, no issues.

Kind of acceptable on some old blades, in moderation, depends.

I dunno Stephen. Its an horses for courses thing My personal take on this is that there are better modern oils For me, its akin to cooking with lard lol

Usually dark patches in photos like that indicate core steel

My advive Dont use Choji oil, use a decent gun oil (as backed up by Aoi Art, they should know, see below) Dont use Alcohol. Wiping an old thin oil film off, not maple syrup or the like. Maybe you guys need Alcohol because you are using choji, dunno. Just use soft cloths. "Special notes ; 1. Generally, Choji oil has been used to treat Japanese swords. This is a sticky vegetable oil traditionally used in cleaning swords. It promotes oxidization of the blade that will result in rust in the future. In our opinion, and based on our experience, we do not advise you to use Chyoji oil. We suggest that you use high-quality machine oil on your sword. This is the same type used when maintaining guns or sewing machines, and it is the only oil that we use with our swords at Aoi Art."

Must say, well done Grant. Nice to see a sensible approach from a newbie with realistic expectations. Briefly, if you want old at a reasonable price, expect a worn signed tanto or wak in shrasaya by lower tier smith, maybe mumei with or without papers. Occasionally see them, expect to pay around £1200 upwards Sometimes see signed late Muromachi Tanto at reasonable prices. I picked up a signed Muromachi Mino Tanto here in the sales section a good few years ago, a few tiny chips but in good polish. $650. Needed a tsuba and re-wrap. You need patience and lots of time trawling sites, i will warn you though, it can become addictive. Lost count of the tuts and comments i received from the Misses whilst on such quests. A great way to learn. Being brief, as mentioned above, lots to consider and compromises involved. We have a few experienced genuine sellers here, that wont rip you off. Good luck.

Are you sending it back ? Sometimes with care they can be straightened, trouble is if you try it and break it off then i guess its your problem.

Do various antique arms forums. Surprising really the amount of help that folks new to the hobby receive here, truly noticeable compared with other forums. Folks readily sharing lots of time and the info from books that they paid a lot of money for, i don't see a lot on such other forums. Newbies very lucky here, some take the ****, some ungrateful , that's people i suppose.