lotus
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Posts
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Everything posted by lotus
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Given the airy design and 3 cm thickness, I would vote Kyo-Sukashi. Most Akasaka are much thicker.
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Pietro - I completely understand, I had the same reservations before removing rust in this manner. I have done it a number of times and have yet to cause any damage to the patina. Cheers!
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Pietro - Nice Tsuba. As for the rust, people on here typically use a piece of bone or piano key and gently rub the rust off. Works pretty well, the key is to use something that won't harm the patina. I googled around for other Tatsutoshi and found some which are similar in style to yours. As I recall Akao shares roots and styles of Echizen school which seems to apply to yours as well.
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Thanks for the feedback. I will definitely look more into the 2 schools you mentioned and research more into the kozuka ana shape.
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Attached are a couple Tsuba, the first one was posted on Facebook and attributed as such "Higo Nishigaki paulownia sukashi". The second Tsuba I own which is very, very close in design to the first. I have always been on the fence with mine as being Nishigaki or not (possibly done by another school but copying the Nishigaki design). It does share many of the same characteristics of the Higo Nishigaki school. Look forward to your thoughts...
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Really nice looking tsuba. I don't have a response to your question but wanted to comment that it looks super thick. What is the thickness?
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Bruno - From a single picture, it can be difficult to determine whether a piece is fake or modern piece. I have seen many times on these very boards where subsequent pictures gave more evidence which steered opinions in a different direction. It certainly did not strike me as a modern piece at first glance. Is there rust on the inside walls of the ana?
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Attached is a tsuba signature I am trying to translate (possibly from an Akasaka or Higo / Nishigaki piece).
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This one was labelled Heinjo/Onin. Very similar to yours...
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I would have said Onin myself. It is a really nice tsuba to my eyes.
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Dimensions are 66 mm wide, 69 tall, 4 mm width at rim and 3.4 at center. Smooth finished, deep brown with red / purple undertones, interestingly cut and finished mimi. Any idea on school, age, and what the hitsu ana shapes are meant to represent? Thanks!
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Very nice indeed. Though the majority of Saotome work I have seen do not have inlay and if they do, they are much more simplistic than yours.
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Maybe a cloud?
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I bet it goes pretty high, the pics are pretty nice...
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As you can see from selected quotes by Ford, he does not call it a real tsuba but rather Meiji period export ware.
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7, 11, 12, 13, 14, and 19 Let me know if you decide to sell any of those!
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Yeah, better photos should help. The back pic looks pretty legit to me. Though, not sure why the mei would be on the back side?
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Yes, the elongated hitsu ana could be an indicator of a pre-Edo time period. Also, 3 mm is fairly thin and could also be an indicator of an earlier piece. Sometimes the nature of the iron can help with aging so maybe someone with more experience will chime in on that. It is hard for me to tell on that aspect.
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Noticed this one on yahoo Japan that reminded me of yours (to a degree)
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Thanks Ford, I learned a lot from this video. A great help to us less experienced collectors!
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I would vote Nara.
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Any recommendations on top Tsuba books on Lulu?
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I also ordered the 50 select book as well!
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That is unfortunate. What is needed is a compound that will only attack the red rust and leave the patina (inactive rust) alone...
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Yeah, baking soda really only acts as a mild abrasive. I tried it last night on my pin-prick rust tsuba and it had little effect. I am not sure if oxalic acid would remove the patina or not. Worth it to try on a test Tsuba. While a tooth brush or animal hair brush might work on some having the looser variety of rust, I do not think it would work on mine. As for Ford's opinion on wax, I thought he was pro-Ren Wax??
