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ROKUJURO

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Everything posted by ROKUJURO

  1. Steve, I was referring to the difference between methods and materials.
  2. Steve, I don't think so. If they wanted to underline that it was "made with traditional material", TAMAHAGANE could have been ONE possibility. But traditional methods might just imply it was forged or differentially hardened or ground on bench stones.
  3. FUJIWARA MASAHIRO. For better photos, please remove TSUBA and HABAKI, and use a dark, non-reflective background. Edited. Of course Ray!
  4. SAME is hide, not leather. That is why it expands when soaked in water and shrinks while drying. But there is also SAME leather available for decorative purposes. I have seen SAME repaired by Japanese craftsmen. They did their very best, but In my opinion, it is always obvious and never nice.
  5. Mike, nothing rough or coarse in this nice TSUBA! It is just the style! What are the dimensions?
  6. Jelle, you understood well that no blades are included?
  7. Parts like SAYA, TSUKA-ITO and TSUKA were often repaired, renewed or replaced in SAMURAI times, so if it were mine, I would consider having it redone with good material by a professional (if I had the means, that is...). Of course I would keep the same style and not choose neon-green TSUKA ITO and pink SAME.
  8. If you look at the patina, it is gone after OSA.... There has been worked on it, I believe.
  9. ....and the white background reduces the contrast! Better use a dark, non-reflective one. Otherwise, nice blade!
  10. Nazar, you may be an expert in sandblasting. But what about Japanese sword blades? Do you see something like HABUCHI, NIOI, or NIE on your blade? I do not know what you have there, but I miss HATARAKI or any other typical signs of what you could expect on a Japanese sword blade, even if it was a SHOWA TO.
  11. Excuse me MORIYAMA-SAN, I am very sorry!
  12. I can't see anything wrong on these images. Looks fine for me. I don't think this design would be cheap and easy to copy.
  13. Frank, that blade is probably not Japanese. The signature(s) (= TACHI MEI) make no sense to me. What remains of the Japanese TSUBA cannot be sold on the market. It may not be very old (how old is old?), but very corroded. The FUCHI is not genuine, but the TSUKA looks to be a repurposed original one. As it is a gift, there were certainly good intentions involved. Don't kill the spender!
  14. Mike, the blade itself does not look dangerously corroded, but someone has obviously sandpapered it, taking off material and rounding the SHINOGI down. Any metal removal on an old blade is a damage and a loss of possible "lifespan"! What is visible of the HAMON does indeed look spectacular! May I ask who the polisher is you will send it to? If he is traditionally trained, he will certainly take care of any corrosion issues.
  15. The second is a TOROKUSHO, a government registration paper. Would be easier to read if oriented correctly, not lying on the side.
  16. Mike, it is WAKIZASHI, not Wakazashi. Signature reads BIZEN KUNI no JU OSAFUNE.....Do not try to "restore" the blade, do not "clean" the NAKAGO! More photos of the complete blade without HABAKI - made on a dark, non-reflective background and presented as cut-outs, tip always vertically upwards - will help the experts to tell you more.
  17. The blank of soft metal TSUBA is always cast with the exception of MOKUME GANE. Some are completely cast with decoration included, some of those are reworked then manually, and finished. A bunch of different techniques. Ford Hallam has often explained this.
  18. The HAMON looks strange to me. I am not sure if it is traditionally made or artificially applied. The NAKAGO seems very evenly corroded which is unusual for such a young blade. Loose parts like a rattling TSUBA can be fixed with traditional Japanese methods.
  19. Nicely focused photos made on a dark background for better contrast will be helpful.
  20. Marcin, TOROKUSHO does not look at validation or authenticity. It is just a registration paper issued by the government. The NAKAGO looks perfectly UBU to me.
  21. And use a dark, non-reflecting background to increase contrast. The above photos are not well focused, and this has nothing to do with the camera. Usually, good sword photos need some practice!
  22. How do you see that Ray? For me, it is just a dark brown NAKAGO!
  23. As far as I know, SHINSA is for traditionally made NIHONTO. These are unique, handmade items.
  24. Thank you Bruce! Nice YAJIRI, they would fit nicely into my small collection....
  25. It is quite a difference! But if it would be o.k. for your IAITO..... If it was for my sword, I would rather get a nice authentic TSUBA for little money
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