ROKUJURO

Nice junk!

Jeff, now it is clear that the phenomena are not cracks or SHINAE. I have a question to another feature: Is there a real HAMON? Even in your magnified photos I don't see traces of NIOI or NIE. What kind of blade is this? Can we see the NAKAGO please (oriented vertically tip-upwards without HABAKI). So in case this was a machine-made blade, we could suspect the SHINOGI-JI was mirror-polished with a machine which would explain the above pictured phenomena.

Anthony, the KOGATANA is difficult to read. There seems to be more than only rust on the blade - looks like grime or paint. You can try to cleant the blade with acetone or paint solvent without any danger of damaging the steel. In case you will make new photos, please use a dark background and light from the side. And a remark on the characters: It is almost never a signature but a name of a famous swordsmith as an hommage.

Just for a better understanding I am showing some of my MIGAKI BO. I think they are made from a highly hardenable carbon steel, probably something like ball-bearing or so.

SHINAE are superficial cracks in the steel after a bend on the stretched side of a blade, and of course they are not beneficial to the structural integrity of it. What we see in Jeff's blade was correctly described as ripples, and they are something quite different. They can develop when the preliminary work in a BOHI left out a stage or two of fine grinding lengthwise which is tedious work. The final polish with a MIGAKI-BO 'compresses' the surface to a very small extent, and using only a pointed MIGAKI-BO can then produce these ripples. With differently dimensioned tools, these can be avoided as you can see on many good swords. But I will add that some sword construction methods also might provoke the occurrence of these ripples. I would not consider them negative in technical hindsight at all. Looking at this feature with a microscope/high magnification will clear that up easily.

A KUCHI GANE.

Johnny, these photos are probably historically interesting and rare! Where did you get them from?

Dutch is not a language, it is a throat disease!

Can I send you a "P" for your headline?

Of course it is/was a genuine Japanese blade, but unfortunately, the "cleaned" NAKAGO makes it almost worthless.

And he posted in the wrong section plus the photos are really bad..... Let's give him a second chance next time!

Colin, thank you for your kind words! Your grandfather was in Japan as one of the earliest Europeans and just at an important threshold of Japanese history! He would have seen medieval Japan trying to become a modern nation in a very short period of time! How fascinating that must have been, and how difficult with no internet to ask question, no English speaking Japanese, and no Westerners knowing manners nor language! That would be a topic for a nice film!

That sounds very strange to me and like a translation mistake. I would imagine that making a copy or TSUNAGI was meant.

James, the HAMON-like spots on the back of the blade are called MUNEYAKI. They are only found on traditionally made blades. In case you search for MINO KANEMOTO school, maybe something comes up. If the blade would be worth a tarditional polish is up to you and your wallet. You will be looking at $ 2.500.-- or more, but I believe it will be a pleasure to look at then, and it will teach you a lot more than now with a nice HADA on the surface.

Hi Colin, take your time to make good photos in case you want help, so we can see details. The above additional photos do not show much. There seems to be a HAMON, but no details like NIE, NIOI or HADA are visible. Again, for good contrast images, use a plain dark background and a dark room (which will avoid reflections), preferably with a single spotlight, and show the whole blade tip-uwards, without TSUBA, SEPPA, or HABAKI. Your sword looks like an authentic civilian Japanese blade, mounted in a military SAYA (= leather covered scabbard). HABAKI looks nice, TSUBA cannot be seen properly. Is there something (a date?) chiselled on the URA (other side) of the NAKAGO? The photo does not allow to see it clearly. Private swords (not always "family heirlooms") are seen being adapted for combat use in WWII with a military SAYA and, sometimes, other military mounting parts. The original WWII blades were mostly in the 630 mm range, but other dimensions occured as well. WAKIZASHI sizes are less common.

Steve, AUSPICIOUS is not the same as SUSPICIOUS. Read slowly and loud, that will help!

Hi Colin, welcome to the NMB forum! Your WAKIZASHI (not Wakazashi) seems to be signed HIDA no KAMI FUJIWARA UJIFUSA. https://www.nihontocraft.com/Hida_no_Kami_Ujifusa.htm I will add that a signature alone is not always enough to assign a blade to a swordsmith. The features of a blade have to be confirmed by the characteristics of the swordsmith's certified works. If you showed us the whole blade (tip-uwards, plain dark background, dark room, light from the side, naked blade/no HABAKI), the sword experts here may give you a more competent comment on it.

Yaga the blade master (there are not many of these around), is there a reason why you posted this in the military section?

So a NI MAI construction with brass! This is not difficult to solder or to fuse (= MOKUMEGANE technique) together, but all in all, it must have been a heck of work to complete! Very extravagant! Thank you Piers for showing!

There seems to be some kind of gold (?) decoration (?) on the other side.

Congratulations, and all the best for the three of you! All other projects can wait!

Not with these photos.

Hi Mark! Welcome to the NMB forum! Your TSUBA is interesting and looks quite unusual to me. Is it magnetic?

Well, then you should absolutely get into contact with our Ray Singer (who commented above) as he is located in Florida as far as I know.

I agree, it is not a SUSHI knife nor a SOSHU knife! Joel, some details let me believe this could be an older (400 years +) sword that should be seen by an expert. Perhaps you find an NMB member near you to give you some hands-on advice. In the meantime keep it away from moisture and children. There is no 'light restoration'. Having it polished in Japan or by a traditionally trained polisher will cost about $ 1.500.-- I believe. As you have no rust on the blade, this is not urgent if you can keep it that way. Get informed here on the board about this complex world of Japanese swords!