Dr Fox

How did we get to comparing cars, to Chinese modern swords, in a 'Nihonto Discussion' topic?. Judas with all due respect, I will leave you with others, who are better able to continue with you on your quest.

Judas To locate a 'soul' in a mass produced Chinese sword, is pushing the boundaries of probability. Sword soul, is only in reference to swords of the Samurai. It is accepted to be present in nihonto blades. This belief is singulary Japanese.

Your comment. Quote. " WHY... would anyone skimp on a tsuka, to put on a quality blade? Even IF the thing's not going to cut anymore... mats, people... quality is quality. This doesn't make sense to me." You have answered your own query. 'Because it will not be swung or used anymore'. ​In the day the fit of tsuka and nakago were extremely tight, the mekugi peg a locater, but not the only means of securing the blade. The fashion of wanting to examine a blade, has invariably led to tsuka's being fashioned to be easily removed, thus not needing to meet the criteria needed for battle. Within your price range, you will very probably get a later fitted nihonto blade. My response to you is not in the aspect of 'cutting', but your stated intention for: " I want the best sword possible... best as in one i could USE. I'm buying as a 'working samurai' here. I will likely do at least some practice with it... suburi, etc. " Swinging a blade, as is performed in suburi, iaido and kendo, puts considerable strain on the blade, be it an alloy iaito or a steel sword, sharp or otherwise. ​The maximum shearing force occurs at the hand guard, and at the mekugi during acceleration and deceleration. When you understand the principle of forces exerted during the above, further advice on this topic will be unnecessary.

There is something you need to know right off the bat. Buying a fully mounted nihonto today, does not get you an item in its original form. The tsuka will be comparatively modern. It will also have been made to present the blade. (and only that). In the day, these tuska were fashioned to withstand the rigours of battle use. And they served exactly as fashioned. Should you as 'a working samurai', imagine that all your safety features are in place. And you perform your stated intentions, you may well get into a world of hurt. Blades separating and flying through the air, are a documented fact. If you want to swing a sword, buy one made just for that. Nihonto and practice blades are worlds apart, avoid the confusion.

Stunning Richard. Visually and with the music just great. Thank you.

Paul/Paul. Floats my boat!

Most collectors cannot read signatures on the spot. So its only from later assistance that the kanji is read. An attractive blade can initiate the 'buy' senses, the nakago many times, is sighted after that impulse. A good friend of mine offered me a blade in shirasaya, having already warned me the signature was gi-mei. I bought the blade, the mei was not a feature in the sale. Would I consider its removal, no, its not that big a deal. Stories of 'suspect' mei being removed, and then accredited to that very smith, are out there.

Please for my own confusion!! Was it said quite recently, the if your post was headed with your real name, as in Peter Churchman. That a signature would not be a requirement, as your title was plain and obvious.

Swords made after 1868, are not considered Samurai in truth. Not 1877 as stated.

There are times, when a design on a tsuba forces the omission of a kozuka or kogai. Here we have an example of such a tsuba.

For tsuba, look at Greys site, he is good enough to show measurements of the nakago ana. Always a bonus when buying tsuba to tight mount. Cuts out the hit or miss.

Malcom, Many thanks, I had stopped searching. Another piece in the jig saw lol. regards.

Ian, my own opinion on blade/sword, has a resonance with your comments. In an article I am writing describing the recent full dressing of a wakizashi in koshirae. I had a small para on this, I had wondered how it would sound to a reader. Think I could stick my neck out now. "I am also hampered by my own stubborn acceptance that nihonto in a shirasaya is a blade, but in a koshirae it is a sword, i.e., ready for its intended purpose".

Been looking for an answer in this direction. This is a kozuka I own. Is this the same kamon.

Dont regard myself a 'collector'. That to me means, an ability to gather specific items, up to a unspecified quantity. Rather I am a 'custodian' of art works, having a true regard for their history, and a mission to ensure that no harm occurs to them in my care. Disposable income, dictates my ability as to what I am able to study, that I assure you will never amount to a collection.

How refreshing, really missed in depth debates such as this, frequently seen at one time, but I feel lacking of late. Gives us students a chance, to research the terms used, and apply the information gained, to our own knowledge. Gentlemen have at it!

Well guys, you have my best wishes, having just had a wakizashi fully dressed, I know whats ahead. You've got twice the work and cost I put in. Cheers.

I stayed overnight into Saturday, and Paulb came into the Holiday Inn for a bite of breakfast. Joined him and the other members at about 10.00am. Enjoyed the day, with a 3pm finish. Thanks to all who organised and structured, a very informative day.

At Holiday Inn for overnight stay, for museum visit tomorrow.

Your problem is compounded, by constantly pushing down on, and compressing the paper already wadded inside. The area you are working in is confined. A pick that ends at 90 degrees will not serve. as it presents its flat area to the materiel. Better a short end, with a greater angle of attack, and a chisel type finish. The shaft of which does not bend easily. Now feel for a low area of the packing, and draw into it there. Make the end of the pick as small as you can, paper will not resist it, but wood will.

There are tools for this job, used by saya maki to remove wood, from the inside of a tsuka after a wrap, which can sometimes tighten the tsuka. Would work on your task in hand. Basically a long scraper, turned at its end and edged. It gives a scraping cutting action. The shaft is rigid, thus allowing controlled pressure to be used. Not being clever here, as I watched Mr Mike Hickman Smith, use one on a saya for a koshirae he built for me.

A word of warning here, on the use of paper on or in any of your fittings. Paper by its very nature will attract moisture. (as the humidity here is beyond belief with all the rain.) It will 'wick' moisture from air, into areas you really want to keep dry. Once soaked it will paste itself to any contact surface, to wood its wallpaper, to iron its a rust starter. There are many better choices, of non absorbent materials.

Just arrived back, wow its bright in here! Hi Geraint, here's where I butted the wall I had not accepted the habaki will not "snug up" to the blade sides. But when pressured up to the machi.s, ha and mune it will resist movement. I over read "snug and firmly". Now i am out I'll stay for a while lol. Cheers.

Aha Ed So the leading part of the 2 part habaki has the ability to flex!. Thus passing over the nakago, then the following 2nd part pressures, and compresses the first part to snug. But would not that assembly, have to be fitted as two separate parts? I have always thought habaki to be of a rigid construction, whether one or two piece. I have lost the plot here, going now, to lie down in a darkened room.

Grip a handkerchief lightly between closed teeth, breathe through your nose.