Grey Doffin

Hi Colin, You got no results because you searched for Iga no Kami. Try Iga Kami. Grey

A situation like this is one where the Index of Japanese Sword Literature on jssus.org can be quite helpful. Go to the index of swordsmiths and search for iga kami; the result will be all instances of smiths who signed with that title and made it into the many references included in the index. Grey

The tsuba has an ishime like finish: tiny pebbled or hammer worked. However, the surface doesn't look right for ishime and it appears the finish carries over into the mei, especially into the kao, which wouldn't be the case if the mei were chisled. I'm going to stick my head way out and suggest that this may be a cast copy. Hope I'm wrong and waiting to see what those more knowledgeable have to say. Grey

Cheers, Grey

I don't think there are many early Edo iron tsuba that have never been mounted. May not be as early as you think. Grey

How many soldiers, men actually doing the fighting, would have worn swords with kogai? Not many, I bet. I think swords with kogai were largely worn by Samurai who didn't get their hands dirty Grey

Taking the picture against a dark background will help. Grey

Perhaps: Zuikan Toso no Subete. https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/b351-zuikan-toso-no-subete-by-kokubo-kenichi/ Grey

me. Grey

Hi Aaron, Here is a care and handling brochure you should read: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Resist all urges to fix anything on the sword; well meaning amateurs often do damage. Cheers, Grey

For a comprehensive look at tsuba, you'd be hard pressed to do better than Tsuba Kanshoki by Torigoye. The 1975 edition is in Japanese and English. https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/fittings-books/b823-tsuba-kanshoki-by-torigoye-1975/ Tosogu Classroom by Fukushi as translated by Sesko and published by the JSS/US and NBTHK/AB & EB, is another good one. Grey

Sorry but I have to disagree. I wouldn't use steel wool of any grit on any tsuba and certainly not on one with shakudo and other soft metal. I think the steel wool is too aggressive for the iron and I'm sure it would do serious damage to the shakudo and silver. Normally I use ivory on iron tsuba but when there is a bunch of soft metal to work around I've had good luck with a fiberglass pen, a tool for cleaning electronics contacts. It is easy to work into corners and doesn't scratch the iron. Grey

Hi Carlos, Youtube has how to videos for rice glue. It is preferred because it doesn't color the wood, it won't damage a polish if any squeezes inside the saya (as long as it is given time to dry before he blade is inserted), and because it is traditional, which means a lot in this field. Grey

Not wanting to hijack the thread and turn it into gluing but... A big reason for recommending the paper bands is that an amateur can do them and not get into trouble; not so with any glue. Hide glue is probably safe but will work well only if pressure is applied, not something an amateur is likely to know. And what if the 2 pieces of wood aren't perfectly in place when the glue sets? BTW, rice glue isn't difficult to make; if you're going to glue a saya why not do it right? Parker, to answer your last question about restoration. There are crafts people in The States who can do the work but the ones who are properly trained are booked years in advance and they aren't inexpensive (you're looking at $3K give or take to have your sword done right which, BTW, will get you a new scabbard, as there isn't a lot of sense in keeping the old one.) You could look for a restorer who charges less and works quicker but he doesn't do good work and needs to find a different hobby. Also, you don't know enough to do a good job of having your sword restored. This isn't a dig at you; all beginners at Nihonto are in the same boat. I recommend putting the bands on the scabbard and handle, making a new pin, putting a very light coat of machine oil on the blade, and taking serious time to learn about what you have. The more you understand if and when you get your sword restored the happier you'll be with the results. Grey

Why would I do that? The paper bands are 100% safe and reversible, do a great job of holding the saya together, last for years, and are easy to apply. Hide glue risks damage. Grey

Hi Parker, Here is a care and handling brochure you should read: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ First off, resist every urge to fix the blade. Restoration on Japanese swords should be left to those who have proper training; well meaning amateurs often do damage. Now, on to the scabbard and handle which need to be put back together to protect the blade. Don't use glue; again there is the risk of damage. Try this technique. Cut strips of paper about 1" wide and long enough to wrap 1 1/2 times around the scabbard. Wrap one around the scabbard about a foot below its top. Tightly wrap the paper strip with masking tape. Place the scabbard top down on a table and force the paper/tape downward towards the table. The scabbard is small diameter at the bottom and largest at the top. As you force the paper/tape towards the top of the scabbard it gets very tight and locks to 2 pieces of wood together. It may take a try or 2 to get the paper/tape where you want it but You'll get it right. Do the same 2 or 3 times further down the scabbard and you're set. When the time comes to have the scabbard properly glued the paper/tape can be slid back down and no tape residue will be left on the wood. Do the same with the handle, which is smallest at the top and largest where it meets the scabbard. Now you need to replace the bamboo peg that locks the blade in the handle. Get a decent quality chopstick and whittle to fit. Don't neglect this step; the peg is very important. Cheers, Grey

Do not clean with silver polish! Grey

Hi Alec, For what it's worth, I think this is a real Nihonto that has seen abuse. The kissaki has been reshaped, most likely because the tip was broken. The nakago does look Bizen so late Muromachi Bizen may be right. Grey

Hi Nate, Here, if you scroll down, you'll find care and handling: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Grey

Hi guys, I drive to the show in Chicago next month. If any one who plans to attend would like a book from my site delivered, let me know. Grey https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/item-category/book/

Hi Sean, Depending on what you mean by period correct restoration - polish only or koshirae also - the answer to your question can be quite complicated; more typing than I'm up for. If you'd like to call sometime feel free. I'm not an authority but I have 40 years experience. Grey 218-340-1001 central time

If any of you have been looking at books on my site, I just learned that many of the books in stock were stuck behind 3 or 4 pages of sold books. They have been moved up to where they belong. Grey

Welcome Thomas, Not possible to tell much from the pictures but I see nothing discouraging. Here you will find a care and handling brochure you should read at least once: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Make sure the bamboo pin is in the hole in the handle and through the one in the sword's tang; it is very important. If it is missing whittle a new one from a chopstick. Grey

The 10% off everything on site sale will end tomorrow, Saturday March 18. After that you'll still be able to talk to me about prices but I won't guarantee a discount. Some items yes; others no. And, should you be interested, I just listed 2 great references: Nihonto Bizen Den Taikan and Token Oshigata Taikan. Thanks all, Grey

Hi Matt, Forgive me for answering a question you didn't ask: beginners should not be buying Japanese swords at auction. Unless you knew the answers to the questions you asked and more before the sale, you should have stayed away from it. You were buying blind, which is an easy way to get burned. With knowledge you can try the auctions; until then you need a dealer who knows a lot and can be trusted. Grey