Grey Doffin

Hi Rob, Here you will find a care and handling brochure you should read at least once: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ It will tell you how to safely remove and replace the handle. Like Ray said, do not try to fix anything, unless the bamboo or horn peg through the handle is missing or weak, in which case it should be replaced. And I disagree with Gene. Wide and bumpy temper line isn't necessarily better or more valuable. Cheers, Grey

I wouldn't bother trying for the next paper. The Hozon paper verifies the signature and that is enough. Grey

The smith is Masanori and the date is Showa Ju Ku Nen (1944) and after that I can't see the characters well enough to read. Doubtless they will be a month and possibly a day. Grey

My pleasure Markus; thanks again. Grey

Hi Christina, Here you will find a brochure on care and cleaning of a Japanese sword: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ It will show you how to remove and replace the handle, among other useful information. Grey

Hi Brian, Not trying to rain on your parade; I see this as part of all of our learning curve. Another concern I have is the solid construction. Menuki aren't solid because they are worked from the back by repousse' as well as carved on the front. Solid construction precludes work from the back, making finish more difficult, and suggests that the pieces were cast. Are there other menuki with solid backs and authentication (paper)? Grey

There are 2 Yasu, one Chika, and another I haven't tried to decypher. Yasuchika is a big name in kodogu. I've been watching this thread. At first I thought something was fishy but others said they were good or better so I kept quiet. I'm bothered by the fact that the pairs are identical, both in design and size: not what I'd expect from a daisho, let alone one with a big name. Someone prove me wrong, please. Grey

My vote is real mounts and fake blade. The kissaki is wrong and the bo hi end strangely. The hamon and hada are weird. Grey

Hi Noah, The task at hand, removing the handle to see the sword's tang, might be relatively easy, if you're lucky. but it might be difficult and there is no way for any of us to know which it will be just from the pictures. Explaining how to safely go about an attempt would be too much typing; there are too many variables. If you'd like to call sometime, I'll tell you what I know, talk you through it. I'm not an authority but I've been at this for 40 years and I've removed many difficult handles in that time. Cheers, Grey 218-340-1001 central time.

Hi Noah, I agree with Brian. This needs to be seen by someone who knows Japanese swords before you'll have a better idea what you have. Maybe the handle can come off without cutting into the string maybe not, but it needs someone with experience to attempt it. In the mean time, don't try to fix anything yourself; well meaning amateurs often do damage. Here is a care and cleaning brochure that will tell you more: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ Grey

Hi Dale, In my years of book selling I have seen only the 1964 and 1975 editions (your 4th link, to my site). The major difference between them is the addition of English in the later edition and there are differences between the pictured tsuba. Grey

Fuller & Gregory have him as Mitsutama in their Swordsmiths of Japan 1926 - 1945. Grey

Looks like Mitsutama and November of 1943. Grey

Hi guys, If all goes as planned, I will be taking possession of a pile of books at the show in August. I fly to the show and can't possibly get the books home with me. I'm looking for someone who drives to the show and would be able to take the books and mail them to me. I expect to pay for the service; not asking for a gift. If you're interested give me a call. Thanks, Grey 218-340-1001 central time

Hi Brian, You probably know this already but, just in case, don't travel with the tsuba inside their boxes. Here is why: https://www.Japanese...suba-in-a-tsuba-box/ That was a tsuba I received from a Japanese dealer. Grey

Hi Simon, I vote cast and, even if it is unsure that it is cast, it is an iron tsuba that has never been mounted, which is usually a warning sign. Grey

Your sword is signed, "Bushu Shitahara Ju Terushige." Not 100% sure I have the Teru right. If I do this means , Resident of Shitahara (or Shimohara) in Musashi Province, Terushige. There were a few smiths working with this signature in the 16th and 17th centuries. Here is a link to a care and cleaning brochure you should read at least once. https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Cheers neighbor, Grey

Actually, when I relisted the book on my site I neglected to mark it as in stock. The book is still available. Grey

Hi guys, Just took in a copy of the rarest of WWII sword books: Dai Nihon Token Shoko Meikan. Read about it here: https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/b662-dai-nihon-token-shoko-meikan/ If you are interested please contact me by email through my site, not by personal message. Cheers, Grey

Hi Dan, I don't know of competent, properly trained restoration in the Boston area. You shouldn't be restoring this now in any case. You don't know anywhere near enough about Nihonto to make informed decisions and there is no reason to rush into the process (it isn't as simple as saying, Here, fix this please and send me the bill). I am not an authority but I do have 40 years experience. If you'd like to ask questions feel free to call. Cheers, Grey 218-340-1001 central time

Hi Nick, The mei reads Fujiwara Noriyuki. Not a blade from WWII; rather an older blade and likely Bungo Takada School. Grey

Hi Dan, Your sword was picked up during/after WWII by your father but it is much older than that. Not much specific information we'll be able to provide from just the pictures - needs to be seen in hand for a true appraisal - but here is a care and cleaning brochure you would be smart to read. https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Grey

This is not a military sword and it wasn't carried during the war. This is an older, Samurai sword in storage mounts (shirasaya), which has no method to attach it to a soldier. Most likely this was picked up by a US soldier after the war in occupied Japan. Here is a care and handling brochure you should read: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ This will show you how to properly remove and replace the handle. As mentioned, if you can give us decent photos of the sword's tang (nakago) and of the writing on the scabbard, we will be able to tell you more. Take the pictures on a dark background; light colored backgrounds make it difficult to see details on darker objects. Grey

Hi Kyle, As mentioned, rough condition but, if the sword is better quality, which it may be in spite of its condition, it may be restorable and end up more valuable than the cost of restoration, which will be significant if done right by a properly trained craftsman. If you'd like someone to bounce questions off, feel free to call. I'm not an authority but I have 40 years experience with these swords and I will tell you what I know. In the mean time, don't rush into any decisions; take the time to better understand what you have before acting. And this includes the bronze brush which is about to be recommended in the next post; don't do it. Restoration should be left to those with training and rank beginners shouldn't be told how to fix their swords. Cheers, Grey 218-340-1001 US central time

The nakago ends at the machi but the top of the nakago is polished and should be oiled with the rest of the polished balde, if you are oiling. Grey