Grey Doffin

Hi Bryan, Looks like a stain was used on the wood before a finish was applied. If you air it out, as recommended, you should lose most of the odor but probably not all of the chemical residue. Should be OK for swords but I can't guarantee it. My personal taste: I think this is too busy (hade') for Nihonto; I much prefer the plain, unfinished Japanese sword boxes. Grey

Far as I know Mark & I are in. Mark will have a car that can hold 5 or 6 in a pinch. Even if we need an Uber, split 9 or 10 ways it isn't much. There are good restaurants in the neighborhood that will certainly cost less than the chain Benihana in the hotel. We can do better. Grey

Hi Bryan, Please post pictures of the box. Grey

Hi Kris, Here you will find a care and haddling brochure: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ Grey

Hi Christian, Is the blade retempered? Is it tired (too many polishes)? Does it have a fatal flaw you're not aware of? Until you can answer questions like these for yourself and not rely on opinions offered online from a few photos, you shouldn't be considering having unsigned, undocumented, unknown blades sent to polish. There will always be unknown blades to buy; there will always be blades you can have polished; there is no reason to be in a hurry. Study Grasshopper. As for this blade, the open grain/defects are troubling but no one can answer the question for sure without seeing the sword in hand. Meaning well, Grey

Thank you, Grey

Thanks guys, Can either of you tell me what this means in English? Grey

Hi guys, If someone can help, I need romaji and translation of this label on a box that contains a daisho of Soten tsuba. It will be appreciated; thank you. Grey

David McDonald in Montana. He should be linked above. Grey

Hi Thomas, As I have been proofing/editing the partially released Tosogu Classroom, I've had a sneak preview of volume 3, which should be available relatively soon. Your question will be answered in great detail. Grey

Bishu Osafune Morimitsu, I believe. Grey

Who won the war? Grey

Hi Nicholas, The only one of the references included in The Index of Japanese Sword Literature that contains an oshigata of this smith is Fujishiro's Nihon Toko Jiten, Shinto-hen. Chujo saku, called Chusaburo, studied with 1st generation Tadatsuna, and used a different kanji for Kane earlier in his career (from Harry Watson's translation). As all of the major references are in the Index, it isn't likely you'll find many other oshigata. Grey

"I need help with this sword" is perfectly capable of a search online for restoration service in his neighborhood, but then what? Will he know which polisher has proper training? Can he trust the polisher to tell him if his sword doesn't warrant the expense? Will he know how to care for a new polish so it doesn't get scratched and stained in short order after he gets the sword back? And what the heck is wrong with his taking some time to learn a bit before he starts throwing money at his sword? Grey

Hi gang, Not wanting to hijack another thread, I'm opening this to suggest that we all take a break from encouraging rank beginners at Nihonto to have their swords polished. These are well meaning new collectors who know almost nothing about their swords (nothing terrible about that; we were all there once) yet time after time they are told they need to spend $2,000 to $4,000 for a restoration they again know almost nothing about. Polish is serious business with many variables that need to be taken into account before a decision is made. Even with 40 years of learning under my belt, I go slow with having something polished. There is no way a beginner should rush into this. Polish isn't preservation; a light coat of machine oil takes care of that. No reason the sword can't wait for its owner to study and then make an informed decision. Grey

Hi Steven, Here is a care and handling brochure you should read: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ Do no more cleaning of anything on either sword; well meaning amateurs often do damage. The short sword is a wakizashi. Pictures of both blades bare of their mounts, on a dark background, will allow us to tell you more about them. Coseups of both tangs (blade inside the handles) even if the wakizashi isn't signed, will help. Cheers, Grey

Hi Paul, You can get just as nice or better for significantly less money. You need to do some research/study before you buy; the more you know the happier you'll be with with you get. Grey

I can recommend David McDonald in Montana. Does great work and should be linked at the top of the home page NMB. Grey

Hi Bert, Some care and handling reading for you: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ Welcome, Grey

Hi Brandon, Here you will find care and handling: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ You would be doing yourself and your tanto a huge favor if you read it at least once. Be sure to replace the bamboo peg in the handle ASAP; it is quite important (whittle one from a chopstick). If you find yourself with a dozen questions feel free to call. I'm no authority but I have 40 years experience with nihonto and will help where I can. Congrats; very nice gift. Grey 218-340-1001 central time

Emura Saku. Grey

Hi Jack, These are called Kao. They are personal seals. Grey

Hi Tobin, Here is a care and handling brochure you should read: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ None of us can tell you much for certain working from just pictures; the sword needs to be seen in hand by someone knowledgeable and honest before you'll have a better understanding of what this is. The next Japanese sword show in the US is Las Vegas in January; if you can attend you'll learn a bunch. Resist all encouragement to have the sword restored before you know a whole lot more about this sword in particular and Nihonto in general. Restoration does nothing to preserve the sword - a fine coat of machine oil on the blade above the tang will do that - and you don't know enough yet to understand what you would be up to. Restoration, if appropriate, can wait. If you have a dozen questions you'd like answered feel free to call. I'm no authority but I've been at this for 40 years and will answer all I can. Cheers, Grey 218-340-1001 central time

Hi George, The 1st picture tells you all you need to know, even without the Marto logo on the tsuka and habaki. The habaki is narrower that the blade and this never happens on a real Nihonto. You would be doing yourself a huge favor if you took some time in study before throwing money at the unknown. Grey

Hi Hylke, You might try: clamp the lower nakago in a wooden jaw vise, with the blade vertical. Place a small hardwood block along side the the blade and on top of the habaki, and gently tap on the block with a small hammer. Move the block from front to back and side to side and eventually the habaki might work loose. Any one have a better idea? Grey