Grey Doffin

If an old master oil painting is shown to have had a corner repainted after damage, is it any less a masterpiece? Grey

Since I was the one to bring this up, let me add. I have been told by people who know a whole lot more than I do that cosmetic boshi is allowable and paper worthy on early blades without other fatal flaws. Kissaki are easily broken in use and reshaping the kissaki is the practical solution to the problem. Mr. Nakahara, in his book translated as Facts and Fundamentals of Japanese Swords, goes so far as to say that the majority of early tachi with ko-kissaki have been broken and reshaped; it wasn't the original shape of the kissaki. What's more, a talented polisher can do a cosmetic boshi so well, I'm not sure anyone could know just by looking. If you can't tell if the boshi is cosmetic, how can you say the sword is fatally flawed? All this taken together means some great, highly esteemed blades, have lost their boshi and we all let it slide. Grey

Looks like at least a cm of the original kissaki is lost. Odds are good the boshi is gone also and you're seeing a cosmetic boshi, added by the polisher. Many tachi from Kamakura and earlier have this problem. It isn't fatal but isn't insignificant either. Grey

Another fake; sorry. Grey

Hi Malachi, Definitely a real Nihonto, possibly Edo period sometime, and anything else would be just a wild guess. Grey

Hi guys, I just finished listing the last of new to my site swords. In the past 2 weeks I've added 2 fine tachi with Juyo papers, another wonderful Kamakura period tachi with efu no dachi koshirae, an impressively large katana by Bitchu no Kami Yasuhiro, and a star stamped gendaito by Shigemasa in solid silver koshirae. Have a look please: https://japaneseswor...tem-category/swords/ and thank you, Grey

I think it has always been Hozon first. Grey

Dmitry Pechalov"s book, and I agree, it is impressive. https://japaneseswor...rpieces-by-pechalov/ Grey

In my humbled opinion, the best material on the subject in English is the 59 volume of Token Bijutsu from the staff at The HBTHK: https://japaneseswor...lete-with-1-reprint/ Grey

Forgive me for repeating myself: A young man in New York city with a violin case under his arm stops an elderly lady and asks, "Excuse me Maam, how do I get to Carnegie Hall?". "Practice" she answers. Read books, look at good pieces, study, study, study. Grey

Hi Dennis, You can spend money on a kit if you like but all that is necessary to care for a Nihonto is light machine oil (choji oil) and a micro fiber lens cloth. Grey

Hi Adam, About your idea to not use clamps. I've made and repaired furniture for 50 years and one basic rule is, you don't have to use clamps if you don't use glue. I think you'll regret your plan. For clamps when reglueing shirasaya, I use masking tape over paper bands that tighten as they are slid up the saya, augmented with strips of cotton sheet wrapped tightly over all. The tape paper bands work well to keep the 2 halves aligned and leave no trace when removed. Grey

I've been waiting for the one, true answer to this; I've had the same question myself. I know from making shoji that rice glue will give with a sharp blow; you have to be able to disassemble the frame to repair damaged kumiko. What I would try before the steam is to hold the tsuka vertical, nakago ana up. Place a hardwood block on the top of the tsuka and give it a sharp blow with a hammer. Shouldn't cause any damage and the tsuka just might fall apart. Grey

Hi Ron, Your sword is, most likely, Koto. It definitely has been shortened and looks long enough to have been a katana before shortening. If there is room between the tip of the boshi and the end of what's left of the kissaki, a properly trained polisher may be able to restore the sword by reshaping the kissaki and by moving the mune at the tip of the sword closer to the edge but the cost for the work probably far exceeds the value of the sword when completed. Grey

Hi Mike, I would suggest you take the time to learn more before you purchase your katana. There is no substitute for "the more you know before you buy, the happier you will be with what you buy." There is less satisfaction in buying what someone recommends than in educating yourself so you can make your own recommendation. In my opinion, the 59 volumes of Token Bijutsu, English edition, from the NBTHK, is the best material on the subject in English. Find it here: https://japaneseswor...lete-with-1-reprint/ or as B747 on my site if you want all 59 to be original. There will never be a time when good Nihonto won't be available; there is no reason to be in a hurry. Best, Grey

Hi guys, I lowered the prices of almost all the tsuba and fittings on my site a few months back; just did the same with book prices (with a dew more to fall). https://japaneseswor.../item-category/book/ Cheers, Grey

Hi guys, I drive to this show so if there is a book on my site you'd like, you'll for sure be at the show, and would like to save the cost and bother of post, send me an email; I'll have the book for you at my table. Just lowered almost all of my book prices; there are bargains to be had. https://japaneseswor.../item-category/book/ Thanks, Grey grey at gmail.com

Hi John, Go to: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ and scroll down for Care and Cleaning. Other than a very light coat of machine oil and a new bamboo pin in the handle if the old one is broken or lost, do not try to fix anything. Your sword is much older than WWII, hundreds of years old. Beware of sharks trying to buy it; learn what you have before acting. Grey

I agree with Steve and, Jaron, you would be well advised not to work on the soft metal. Antler will do no damage to the iron but you can easily do irreparable harm if you mess with the soft metal. Grey

Hi Dan, Start by reading Care & cleaning here: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ and read it again until you're sure you understand the basics of handling a Japanese sword. Taking in the talk on handling Saturday morning at 10 is also a good idea. There will be a display of better quality pieces, probably early afternoon Saturday. Highly recommended. Come prepared to look at everything in the room and ask a lot of questions. Come by the tables Mark & I share and introduce yourself. Have fun. Grey

Thank you, Grey

Hi guys, Concerning a sword with a kin-zogan mei by, I've been told, Honami Koon. I can't find anything on the man; can any of you enlighten me? Is there a geneology of the Honami in Romaji somewhere online? Thanks, Grey

Wood never stops shrinking and expanding with change in humidity. With time the seasonal change lessens but it doesn't disappear. Grey

And while you're in contact with Markus, ask about the current 3 volumes (some day it will be 5) of Tosogu Classroom. The perfect book for your needs. Grey

Where did you read that genuine mei were removed and replaced with gimei? I'm sure it has happened sometime but, given how much easier it would be to start with a mumei blade that wouldn't require removal and repatination, it probably is quite uncommon. Grey