Grey Doffin

Hi Dan, Start by reading Care & cleaning here: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ and read it again until you're sure you understand the basics of handling a Japanese sword. Taking in the talk on handling Saturday morning at 10 is also a good idea. There will be a display of better quality pieces, probably early afternoon Saturday. Highly recommended. Come prepared to look at everything in the room and ask a lot of questions. Come by the tables Mark & I share and introduce yourself. Have fun. Grey

Thank you, Grey

Hi guys, Concerning a sword with a kin-zogan mei by, I've been told, Honami Koon. I can't find anything on the man; can any of you enlighten me? Is there a geneology of the Honami in Romaji somewhere online? Thanks, Grey

Wood never stops shrinking and expanding with change in humidity. With time the seasonal change lessens but it doesn't disappear. Grey

And while you're in contact with Markus, ask about the current 3 volumes (some day it will be 5) of Tosogu Classroom. The perfect book for your needs. Grey

Where did you read that genuine mei were removed and replaced with gimei? I'm sure it has happened sometime but, given how much easier it would be to start with a mumei blade that wouldn't require removal and repatination, it probably is quite uncommon. Grey

Hi Mark, Wood of the shirasaya shrinks and expands with changes in humidity; the habaki doesn't. The blade should be inserted far enough that the habaki is comfortable, gripping but not forced. Too far in and the saya can split and/or the foil on a habaki can rip. The gap is not a problem. As for protection from dust, that is why we keep our swords in bags. Grey

Hi John, 3 of your tsuba are labeled as cast iron; I doubt that is correct. You might ask the auctioneer to change the listing. Grey

I once had a real Nihonto katana on which the tsuka had a mekugi-ana on one side only and the katana had no mekugi-ana. Best guess was that the katana was a gift to a shrine and thus no ana. As for the tsuka: no idea why an ana one side only but it can happen. The only rule is that there are no rules. The tsuka in question, to me, looks to be real Nihonto. Grey

Hi Mike, Here you will find care and handling: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ Do not try to fix anything; restoration is best left to those with proper training. And don't give it to a museum. With rare exceptions, museums are death to Japanese swords. Have a bunch of questions? feel free to call sometime. Cheers, Grey 218-340-1001 central time

Hi Tom, Odds of finding a koshirae that is available for sale and that fits your wakizashi are close enough to zero that it makes no sense to look. As stated, having one custom built will be quite expensive. Most every beginner wants to do this; nearly none of the old timers do because they know the bother and expense and they know also that they'd never be able to get their money back when the time comes to sell. Another option, and one that makes sense, is to buy a wakizashi koshirae, not bothering to see if it fits, and display it next to your sword in its shirasaya, where it belongs anyway. Grey

Hi Michael, If the dark patches show little or no hada, of they show coarse hada, they are most likely core steel (shintetsu) as noted by Alex. If the patches have an honest hada they may be a special hada made by specific smiths or schools, for example matsukawa hada. But these dark patches aren't usually as well defined as those in your pictures. Best guess from the pictures is shintetsu; we call the sword "tired" Grey

Thank you Steve. Grey

Hi guys, What is the middle character, please. It is right side up on my computer but sideways here; go figure. Thanks, Grey

Hi Mark, Books could be written to answer your questions; it is a complicated subject. The task you've set yourself is large if not ponderous; it is one often taken up by beginners and far less often by seasoned collectors. If you study and stick to it you will succeed and, when the time comes to sell (it will), you'll have little trouble recouping a quarter of what you spend (other collectors will be looking for antique Japanese koshirae, not modern (except for work done by modern masters)). There is another option for you: https://www.Japanese...possibly-higo-sweet/ Cheers, Grey

Hi Steve, I'm curious: would a tsuba from the early 1800's have that much of the design on the seppa-dai? I thought that was a Meiji & later thing. Also, the katakiri borii seems a bit heavy handed to be that early. Grey

Hi Peter, I may have one or two (I'd have to dig through the pile to know) but not a steady source. Grey

Hi guys, If you've been watching my site you may have noticed I've slashed the prices of nearly every piece of kodogu (if you haven't been watching, shame on you:-). Find the carnage here: https://www.Japanese...tegory/tsuba-kodogu/ I have 2 or 300 pounds of books to list in the next few days and new (to my site) swords, koshirae, and fittings will follow soon. Thanks as always to those of you who support my efforts: much appreciated. Grey

Hi Tarquin, This book: https://www.Japanese...-by-joly-with-index/ and this one: https://www.Japanese...fittings-by-fukushi/ Grey

Hi Tyler, Care and handling: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ Don't be in a hurry to get anything done. You need to know a whole lot more than you presently do before acting. The sword can wait for you to catch up. Grey

If you sell the sword and have to ship it to the new owner: how to safely ship a bare blade. You need a stout tube, about 5 or so cm longer than the blade, end caps for the tube, and a piece of 1/8" masonite (or similar) that fits snugly, both top to bottom and side to side, in the tube. With the blade in its paper shirasaya, lay it on the masonite and mark the mekigi-ana on the masonite. Mark another hole just above the nakago next to the 1st mark. Drill holes in the masonite at the marks. Tie a sturdy piece of insulated electric wire through the holes in the masonite and blade to secure it to the masonite, or you can use a nylon zip tie. Securely tape the blade in paper saya to the masonite in 3 or so spots along its length. Insert into the tube, place the end caps, and you're set. Grey

Hi Alaen, Cut a piece of black paper the shape and size of the seppa-dai and place it on the tsuba on your screen. Now ask yourself, "Does the design still work?" As a general rule (exceptions for tsuba made in very late Edo and later which often were made to suit western taste) seppa dai were left plain because they would be invisible when mounted. Well made and well designed tsuba use this negative space as part of the design. In this case, you have the man and the front half of a tiger with a disembodied tail across the seppa-dai; the design doesn't work for me. I have to disagree with Colin; I think the carving is clumsy, not well done. I wouldn't collect this one. Grey

Hi Matthew, The sale says, "As is". He isn't accepting returns. Ebay is a snake pit for beginners; if you have any sense you'll stay away from it. If you did manage to find something good on ebay other bidders who know more than you do will see to it that it will be expensive. You need a dealer whom you can trust to help you make smart decisions. Grey

Hi Shawn, Care and handling: https://nbthk-ab2.or...ord-characteristics/ The bamboo pin (mekugi) looks as if it may have broken. If it no longer does a good job of locking the blade in the handle be sure to replace it as soon as possible; it is important. You can whittle a good quality chopstick. Grey

Hi folks, Volume 3 of Tosogu Classroom is now available for purchase: $44 post included for members of The JSS/US and NBTHK/AB or EB, $64 for everyone else. You can order the book from Markus Sesko: markus.sesko@gmail.com. If you prepaid for this and the next 2 volumes and if you have moved since you received Volume 2, please contact Markus with your new address. If you care about kodogu (sword fittings) you want these books. If you search NMB for Tosogu Classroom you'll learn what these are. Cheers, Grey