Grey Doffin

What Dave said and also, you'll have to send the whole sword to get a proper fit and no reason not to get a whole new habaki. Grey

Hi, The smith's name is Yoshimitsu and the 2 characters before that may read, according to Fuller & Gregory, Yabuzu. The paint on the other side is assembly numbers. Grey

Hi Drew, The holes aren't supposed to line up perfectly; they should be offset so that when the pin is inserted it pushes the nakago down and the handle up to make everything at the seppa and tsuba tight against the habaki. I can't tell from your pictures if this is the case or if it is reversed and the offset is making everything too loose, in which case you may be missing a seppa or 2. If the offset is in the correct direction but there is too much offset to allow the pin to enter, maybe there is something stuck in the bottom of the handle that prevents the nakago from seating properly (as was suggested earlier). Reach something like a knitting needle down inside to see if the offending particle or whatever can be dislodged. Do not, as was also suggested earlier, cut wood off the end of the handle. The handle was made to be the correct length when the sword was 1st assembled and it hasn't changed length since (wood doesn't shrink in length). Feel free to call with questions; glad to help. Grey 218-726-0395 central time

Hi Drew, You need to make a new mekugi ASAP. Without this pin the blade can slip down inside the scabbard and damage its point or, worse, fall free from the handle and shatter the point on the floor after passing through your foot. You can whittle a chopstick. Grey

I think this is something put together late Meiji or maybe after the war, to be sold to western tourist or occupation forces. The finish on the saya is suspicious and the ko jiri is klunky at best. It was a bargain only because the price was so low.. But better minds may know better. Grey

Hi Dan, Try taking a picture with a raking light, one coming from the side. It will do a better job of highlighting the strokes of the characters and may make the date more visible. As is, I can't see much of anything. Grey ps. Someone will now suggest chalk dust or talc in the characters (dust the whole nakago and brush off the majority) but I think a raking light is the better choice and leave chalk to last stab.

Hi Dan, Yes, a signature and date; I see hachi gatsu hi, a day in August, in your 2nd picture. Try taking pictures from a bit further out; these are too close up. Also, if you use a raking light the kanji will be easier to see. As is, it is hard to make out much. Grey

Hi Piotr, I think this is a reproduction; sorry. Grey

Hi Michael, You admit to being new to Nihonto, which is good. You would be very smart if you strongly resisted every urge to fix this sword yourself. Until you know a whole lot more than you currently do you should leave the sword alone; well meaning amateurs can make a terrible mess. Best, Grey

Hi guys, If anyone has a better idea please let me know. If not, would one of you please give me the romaji for the Japanese and a rough idea what is being said? Thank you, Grey

Hi Edward, Kore, meaning this. The mei would be read Seki Nobumitsu Kore wo Saku, I think: Seki Nobumitsu made this. Grey

Thanks. Anyone else know more than that? Grey

I am pretty sure this is Japanese and pretty sure it is in terrible condition. This one might be best left as is; far too much of it would have to be sacrificed in a polish. If it were mine I would be tempted to enjoy it for what it is, as is. Grey

Thank you Dan; much appreciated. Grey

Hi guys, I'd be most appreciative if someone could tell me romaji and meaning of the following. Thanks, Grey

I also agree that this is cast and I just couldn't resist when Barry wrote caste (which someone has since corrected).. Grey

Brahmin.

Hi guys, I just took in 6 boxes of books (5 were large; 1 weighed 90 pounds) and have listed those not already spoken for on my site. Some very useful references, a couple I've never had before, and a few in immaculate condition (pretty amazing for 40 year old books). Check them out at the top of the list on my books page: https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/Books Cheers, Grey

Hi Oleg, Your sword is signed Dewa no Kami Hokyo Minamoto Mitsuhira. Mitsuhira was a leading smith of the Ishido School; he worked in the mid 17th century. My 1st real sword was by Mitsuhira; nice find. Grey

Hi Acxel, Signed Rai Kunimitsu. The earliest Rai Kunimitsu was a very important smith from Kamakura era but he never made a wakizashi (the form didn't exist when he worked). There were later smiths who used the name; none are well known. Your sword is either by one of them or it is gimei, a forged signature. Grey

Hi Acxel, In spite of what everyone is telling you, resist the urge to jump into restoration. 1st you need to have a better idea what you have and what all your options are. The sword can always be restored and nothing terrible will happen to it if it isn't restored soon. The more you know before you have restoration done, including whether or not the sword should be restored, the more successful the effort will be when you do it. There may be a Japanese sword show in Schaumburg (near you) the end of April (depends on the virus situation); if so it would be an excellent opportunity to have the sword looked at. If it doesn't happen there are other options. In the mean time, take it slow; don't be in a hurry. I'm not too far away in Minnesota. I'm not an authority but I know more than you do about this. Feel free to call with questions; glad to help if I can. Cheers, Grey 218-726-0395

Morning Acxel, I agree; this might be interesting. It needs to be seen in hand by someone who knows what he's looking at and who is honest (not going to guess which of the 2 is in shorter supply). As mentioned, don't try to fix anything yourself (well meaning amateurs can do serious damage) with one exception. If there is no pin to fit through the hole in the handle and blade's tang, whittle one out of a chopstick ASAP. The pin (mekugi) is very important; the blade is dangerous and subject to fatal damage itself if there is no pin to lock it in the handle. Best, Grey

Morning Jose, As Piers mentioned, you need both a kotsuka and kogatana. Don't get too hung up on these being made in the Muromachi; while your wakizashi is from that period, its koshirae is most likely newer than that. Lots of kotsuka online to choose from; I have more than a few on my website and would be glad to help. Mark Jones usually has kogatana for sale. You'll find both of us in the dealers section here on NMB. Cheers, Grey

Hi Max, Check with The Index of Japanese Sword Literature at jssus.org: http://www.jssus.org/ijsl/?&display=table&table=smiths&page=1 Cheers, Grey

Hi Brian, The sword looks to be real, real low end, and in really bad condition. The handle wrap may be something done late war, to get it out to the troops as quick as possible. Don't spend any more money on this one; it is too far gone. Grey