Grey Doffin

The mei is, I believe, Masatoshi. Grey

Hi Jeff, Here is a care and cleaning brochure: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ scroll down to find it. We won't be able to tell much from pictures alone; the sword needs to be seen in hand by an honest person with knowledge. Where in the States do you live? Maybe there will be someone nearby. Best, Grey

Hi Anders, Speaking only for myself and my website, I accept either form of paypal (although friends is always appreciated), personal or bank checks, bank wire transfer, and am willing to try something else if the customer requests it. I usually have payment in full before I ship but I do allow my customers to make time payments to ease the pain of an expensive item. Cheers, Grey

Hi Arnold, You say you want to buy an original sword; if so, you need to buy only from a dealer you can trust 100% or you need to study first (and, shy of getting lucky, those are the only options you have). The fact that you are asking about such an obvious fake tells us you are a beginner. There is nothing wrong with that; we all have been there ourselves, but as a beginner you need either very good advise or a whole lot more knowledge than you currently possess. Otherwise you will run out of money quite quickly. Grey

Hi Michael, This needs to be done by someone with proper knowledge/training; I'm nearly 50 years a furniture maker and I wouldn't take this on. You could approach John Tirado, Brisn Tsernega (sure I spelled that wrong), or send it to Bob Benson (check links above). Grey

Hi Seth, You don't really want to get this sword polished; it would be a mistake to do that now (if ever). Imagine we are talking about poker, not swords. You have just learned what playing cards are and you're wondering how to sign up for the World Series of Poker. Read, study, ask questions, but don't be in a hurry. There is nothing you can do with Japanese swords today that you won't be able to do later and with more knowledge. If you'd like to ask a bunch of questions feel free to call sometime. I am not an authority but I have been at it for nearly 40 years and will help where I can. Grey 218-726-0395 US central time

Hi Seth, To answer your question about polishing. While it is best to leave other antique items as is, Japanese swords are treated differently. Only if the blade is properly polished is it possible to see the temper line (hamon) and grain (hada). However, a proper polish is expensive and an improper polish (done by an amateur or a self taught knucklehead) is a terrible idea. Only if a sword has value greater than the cost of the polish does it make sense to have the work done. From what I've seen of your sword, I would guess a polish isn't warranted; the defects shown in your pictures affect the value too much. A proper polish with new habaki and shirasaya, both of which would be necessary, would cost at least $2,000 and when you were done it might be worth $700 or $800 at best. Take some time to read and study. This is a fascinating field and you're off to a good start. Cheers, Grey

Hi guys, The San Francisco show is fast approaching. I'd like to take all my kodogu with me to the show but I have a few too many pieces in wooden boxes to fit in my carry on. This is where you come in. Have a look at my Tsuba and Kodogu pages: https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/Tsuba-&-Kodogu and, if you see something your wife might let you buy, make me an offer. Offers on boxed kodogu are the point of this post but all reasonable offers, whether on swords, fittings, or books, will be considered. Contact me by email through my site, please, not by personal message here. I need your emails to keep track of business. Thanks, Grey For example:

Correction. He isn't the Kawano Sadashige, student of Gassan Sadakatsu at the bottom right of your chart. He is Imai Sadashige, student of Takahashi Sadatsugu just to the left. Grey

Hi Stephen, A different Sadashige, I believe, and not on my site. Grey

Thanks Ray. Now explain to me how I missed such an obvious answer. Grey

Hi guys, 2 kanji in this mei have me stumped. If someone can fill in the blank and confirm that I have the rest correct I would be most appreciative. The 1st of the 2 kanji is Dai or O, but with the 2nd I get nowhere. The sword will be for sale if that makes a difference but, not until the San Francisco show. Thanks, Grey

Not likely. This looks like something made no earlier than post WWII. There is no mekugi-ana: just one of many tells. Grey

Hi David, Nothing needs to be done to the tang; leave it alone. I don't see a signature; I think the sword is unsigned. You need to whittle a new peg for the handle and you need to do it ASAP. Without the peg (mekugi) the blade can fall out of the handle and and break its point, either when it hits the bottom of the scabbard or when it hits the floor after it passes through your foot. Find a bamboo chopstick for this. Here is a care and etiquette brochure you should read twice: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ and scroll down. You did very well with your $100; the tsuba alone is probably worth that or more. I see what look like openings (defects) on the blade and if that is the case you didn't buy a treasure, but still a real, traditionally made Japanese sword. If you have a bunch of questions you'd like answers to, I'm in central time US and happy to help if I can. Grey 218-726-0395

David McDonald in Montana has received an award in Japan for his work in tsuka-ito. I'm sure you'll find him in the links at the top of NMB and I'm sure you'll be pleased with his work. Grey

If you take pictures on a dark background we'll be better able to see details. Grey

Hi Steve, Do not try to clean the tang of your sword (the tang is the part that goes into the handle, with signature and date). Any attempt at cleaning might result in serious degradation of value. Here is a care and cleaning brochure you should take a few minutes to read (scroll down): https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Cheers, Grey

Hi Micheal, If it is Japanese and edged weapon, from hundreds of years ago and up to recently made, including military swords, you will find it at the show. You will have little trouble selling a sword either. Ask my table mate Mark Jones to have a look; he does a lot of business in Japanese military swords. Cheers, Grey

Hi Harry, I think you mean nakago (tang) not mune. This one hasn't been replaced. What you see on the side of the nakago is a stain, not a weld, and the slight indentation at the back is where a tsuba has worn away at the mune of the nakago during decades, if not centuries, of use. Grey

Hi Miche, Katsumitsu. Can't judge age from just one picture of the mei. Grey

Hi Michael, It's Mark Jones I share tables with. Grey

Hi Michael, If you will attend only one day, Saturday will be best. You can take in the Care & Handling talk (usually 10 AM) and the NBTHK/AB, also usually, puts on a show of treasures sometime during the day. Make sure you do know proper handling (https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ and scroll down) and always a nice idea to ask permission before picking up a sword to look at. Be sure to ask all the questions you have and once asked, listen. The show is quite informal; don't worry about fitting in. If you buy a sword you can get it home in a checked bag, although you'll need a gun case or something similar for a long blade. I'd include a note to TSA, placed on top when the bag or case is opened, explaining that the bag contains an antique sword and no firearms. You can ship the sword home to yourself. I recommend registered mail form the post office (if you live in The States), using a stout tube and the requisite stampable paper tape to seal the tube. Registered is the safest shipping option for valuable items and, once you get above $1,00 or so in value, it is less expensive than regular priority with insurance. Another option for getting a sword home is asking the seller if he is willing to take it home and ship to you. Not all dealers will be willing but I know I would be. Have a mekugi nuki for removing pegs with you; gloves aren't necessary. Areas you should be particularly studying before hand? All of them. Lots of people are planning to attend. You'll have a great time; stop by Mark's & my tables and say hello. Grey

If I am not mistaken, this is Bishu Osafune Sukesada. Grey

Hi Brian, There are gobs of sword terms in Japanese; witness this book: https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/books/b103-1100-Japanese-sword-terms-and-400-named-blades but you don't need to know any where near that many to get started. Yumoto's The Samurai Sword: https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/books/b771-samurai-sword-handbook-yumoto or Sato's The Japanese Sword: https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/books/b138-Japanese-sword-kanzan-sato will cover the basics and that's enough to begin. Keep reading, studying, & looking at good swords; you'll be pleased with your progress. Grey

Hi Stan, To have the sword polished and mounted with new shirasaya and habaki, if necessary, by properly trained artisans will cost at least $2,000. To have it polished by an amateur would be foolish. I recommend a light coat of machine oil to stabilize the rust and not much more at the present. Take some time to learn about Japanese swords and what your options are; with better understanding you can make an informed decision. Maybe, someday, you'll decide to have a polish done but, you may also decide you're not that serious about collecting Japanese swords and you'll be happy you don't have way more into this one than you can ever recover by selling. No need to hurry. I'm willing to take a call and answer questions, if you like. Grey 218-726-0395 central time.