Grey Doffin

I checked my Index of Japanese Sword Literature for Nobuyori. You'll find him on page 327 of volume 1 of Shinto Taikan, page 176 of Zuikan Tomei Soran, and page 44 of volume 17, #2 JSS/US "Newsletter". Grey

There is no mention of Tadaaki in any of the 50 or so references in my index. Grey

Hi folks, A long time back an old timer told me to be careful of any sword that had a shakudo habaki. He said they often have serious or fatal problems. Since then I've paid attention and found his warning to be true; more often than not the sword was retempered, gimei, or something else I wouldn't want to collect. Of course, there are exceptions. I know of a Tokubetsu Juyo tachi with a shakudo habaki, and I've seen plenty of other fine swords with the same. But still, the majority have had problems. Have any of you heard of this? Does anyone know why this would be? It doesn't make sense. It can't be dumb luck; the pattern is too consistent. But, if a shakudo habaki is a known red flag, why would anyone put one on a sword? I can't imagine anyone would want to advertise the fact that his sword is defected. Interested to hear your answers. Grey

I checked my index (Index of Japanese Sword Literature, about 50 or so references indexed under one roof) and found that none of the references gave a listing for a Shinshin-to Hizen Yoshinaga. I have one in Kanbun (1661) if that would help. Grey

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe these tsuba are classified as Nanban because of the design (foreign influence), not because they were made of foreign iron. Grey

If the sword is a real Masamune it would be worth tens of thousands of dollars, probably in excess of $100,000. The seller, being a sword dealer in Japan, knows this. If he truely believes it is a real Masamune why would he let it go for $2,500? Both he and the sword are in Japan. He can very easily get it to shinsa and have a recognized authority give it a paper. Strange he hasn't done this if he's so sure of the maker and quality. If you are thinking about buying the sword you might want to ask him about these issues first. Grey

The stamp isn't an arsenal stamp. Rather, it's a kao, or kakihan, the personal seal of the swordsmith, or if the sword in question is a gunto it might possibly be a stamp used by the manufacturer who sold the sword. Grey Today's conservatives are tomorrow's registered sex offenders.

TAD 64 is an index # in Hawley's, meaning he is the 64th smith listed who signed with the 1st character "Tada". Hawley lists him at 8 points, which is at the low end for that book. The point ranking numbers in Hawley's are often meaningless. Don't worry about the points; study the blade. Grey

Another reason not to buy netsuke from the Chinese fakers is that some of the fakes are real ivory, ivory that comes from illeagally hunted (poached) elephants. Elephants, like many large animals on Earth, are in decline. It has been a long time since a wild elephant has been seen in the forests near where I live. Grey

For what it's worth (not much) here is my take on uchiko/alcohol. If I use uchiko on a sword in polish I use only high quality uchiko, which I purchased from Bob Benson, the polisher in Hawaii. At sword shows in the States I've heard it called 'polisher's uchiko'. I've never experienced scratching with this uchiko. That said, I rarely use uchiko on a sword in polish. When I need to wipe my sword I use a micro fiber cloth. I've been told that the National Sword Museum in Tokyo (NBTHK) uses micro fiber in lieu of uchiko. One thing about micro fiber cloth: new out of the package they have a stitched bound edge. If you're being very careful you'll cut of this stitching, which isn't as soft as the cloth and might trap small particles. The micro fiber can be washed if necessary. Any alcohol combines readily with water; no matter how pure it will pick up moisture from the air. A friend with a great collection cleans his blades with benzene, if I'm not mistaken. Benzene is toxic; don't know as I'd like to use it. As to whether a sword needs to be oiled: hard to say. I tend not to but I've been burned before when a small rust spot appeared. I'd try it only if the sword's last polish was at least 6 months ago, if it is in well made shira-saya (so the blade isn't touching the wood), and if the storage area isn't overly humid. That's what I know. Grey

My understanding of the difference between water and oil quenched blades is that the oil quench leaves a very uninteresting, sleepy hamon and no possibility of ji-nie. A well made oil quench blade should look like a very poorly made water quench. Grey

When you find one of these, copy the # of the real sale and on the page of the fraudulent sale click on "report this item" at the bottom. Next click "copying your listing" and from there you will soon be pasting the real sale # on a form and explaining to ebay exactly what is happening. Grey

I saw this online, on ebay I think. My opinion is that it's a fake. The Kanji are nicely cut but the nakago is all wrong for real Nihonto. Anyone have a better idea? Grey

I make it as, "Minamoto Nobukuni Yoshiaki Saku". Grey

I'm looking at the nakago which is as bright as the day it was made. I've never seen a non stainless gunto nakago that didn't have at least a bit of corrosion. Grey

The blade appears to be stainless steel, which precludes traditional construction. Mike is 100% to be trusted; I think the price is for the mounts, which appear to be much nicer than usual. Grey

This listing on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Old-Samurai-short-sword-vintage_W0QQitemZ110056230141QQihZ001QQcategoryZ95132QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem is of a sword that's been chromed. Do any of you know if it's true that the chroming did no damage and that it can be easily removed, or has the blade been damaged? Grey

To my knowlege, all Japanese NCO swords are semi sharp pieces of steel, machine made, no folding or differential hardening involved. If someone knows better than I, let us know. Grey

Interesting. The characters are readable but unfortunately, they are upside down. This is something I've never seen on a real Japanese sword; I suspect you've bought something else. Here's a chance for someone who knows more than I do to jump in and tell us that the famous Damdifino school always signed upside down. Anyone out there have better news for the sword's owner? And, by the way, rust should never be removed from a sword's nakago except by a competent restorer, if even then. Messed with nakagos seriously decrease a sword's value. Grey

Joshua, The blade is in very rough condition. I see areas of loose grain or openings, plenty of pitting from corrosion, and chips in the edge. The polish is completely shot. The mounts aren't anything special. The price is about twice what I'd expect for an unsigned Shinto wakizashi in that condition. You would do better to spend your money on books and attending sword shows to learn what to collect. Unless you're looking for a wall hanger and nothing more I doubt you'd be happy with the sword. Just my opinion; worth what I charge for it. Grey

You might add the NBTHK American Branch to your list of sword societies: http://www.nbthk-ab.org/index.htm There is a European branch also. Sorry, I don't have the url. Thanks for the links. Nice work. Grey

A ew years back a friend of mine was practicing cutting (tameshigiri) with a Chinese made sword. The blade shattered. A piece came back at him and severed many useful parts of his hand. He's lucky to have regained most of its function. I don't know which Chinese brand sword he was using so this post isn't about Paul Chen specificly. The message is: be very careful which sword you use for cutting; they aren't all safe. Grey

Brian, Glad to do something stupid so others can learn. I often have trouble with my computer; last night was no exception. Shinshu was the best I could come up with also. Thanks for the help. Grey

Please work.