Grey Doffin

To exclude certain countries (China) I search USA only and then Japan only (and I suppose I could check on Europe also). If you exclude listings under a certain amount you miss out on my sales; I always list with a $5 starting price. No one should miss out on my sales. Grey

Both the paper and the blade read Yukihiro. The blade is the full length written out version of the Kanji and the paper has the common abreviation, which you often see written out as well. Grey

Extra holes in Koto is not more desirable. Best case: the sword is ubu, one hole. Extra holes usually mean that the blade has been shortened and you'd rather have the original length, no matter how old the blade is. Sometimes the extra hole is because of a change in mounts, not shortening. In this case the extra hole isn't a detriment at any age. Shortening on a Shinto or later blade does affect the value more than it would on a Koto blade. However, a shortened blade by Shinto Kotetsu would be far more valuable than an ubu late Koto katana by some no name smith. Quality always trumps length. You can't assume that a sword for sale online is in polish unless you have been told it is in polish. You should always ask. Whether in polish or not, Japanese swords tend to be very sharp. You can't assume a sword with Hozon papers is flawless. With rare exceptions, however, you can assume there are no fatal flaws (ha-gire, missing boshi, retemper). Those exceptions are very early swords by very important makers, which, in spite of the flaw, receive the paper because the signature and sometimes date are unique or nearly so. It is less likely that a Shinto blade with Hozon papers will have flaws than a Koto blade with the same paper. Shinto are expected to be flawless or nearly so and those with flaws don't get papers easily. Koto, being around a lot longer, can have a few more warts and still pass shinsa. But it's not just age that comes into play. The quality of the sword, how well it was made, has a lot more to say about paper possibilities than the presence of loose grain or a tiny opening in the shinogi-ji. The best way to buy a good piece in your price range is to buy books and study, attend sword shows and study, beg your way into collections, ask questions, and study. Then study some more before you buy the sword. Grey

The blade is a fake; no doubt. The habaki also, and the tsuka-ito (handle wrap) looks fishy. Grey

Definitely pine needles; don't know about the sukashi. I think it's possible the tsuba has been reduced in size (the diameter was made smaller; this happened sometimes). The sukashi seem too close to the edge to me; it seems unbalanced somehow. Be interesting to hear what others think on this. Grey

Martin, Look at Shinto Taikan, volume 1, page 139, Zuikan Tomei Soran, page 84, and JSS/US "Newsletter" volume 16, #2, page 27. Grey

I checked my Index of Japanese Sword Literature for Nobuyori. You'll find him on page 327 of volume 1 of Shinto Taikan, page 176 of Zuikan Tomei Soran, and page 44 of volume 17, #2 JSS/US "Newsletter". Grey

There is no mention of Tadaaki in any of the 50 or so references in my index. Grey

Hi folks, A long time back an old timer told me to be careful of any sword that had a shakudo habaki. He said they often have serious or fatal problems. Since then I've paid attention and found his warning to be true; more often than not the sword was retempered, gimei, or something else I wouldn't want to collect. Of course, there are exceptions. I know of a Tokubetsu Juyo tachi with a shakudo habaki, and I've seen plenty of other fine swords with the same. But still, the majority have had problems. Have any of you heard of this? Does anyone know why this would be? It doesn't make sense. It can't be dumb luck; the pattern is too consistent. But, if a shakudo habaki is a known red flag, why would anyone put one on a sword? I can't imagine anyone would want to advertise the fact that his sword is defected. Interested to hear your answers. Grey

I checked my index (Index of Japanese Sword Literature, about 50 or so references indexed under one roof) and found that none of the references gave a listing for a Shinshin-to Hizen Yoshinaga. I have one in Kanbun (1661) if that would help. Grey

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe these tsuba are classified as Nanban because of the design (foreign influence), not because they were made of foreign iron. Grey

If the sword is a real Masamune it would be worth tens of thousands of dollars, probably in excess of $100,000. The seller, being a sword dealer in Japan, knows this. If he truely believes it is a real Masamune why would he let it go for $2,500? Both he and the sword are in Japan. He can very easily get it to shinsa and have a recognized authority give it a paper. Strange he hasn't done this if he's so sure of the maker and quality. If you are thinking about buying the sword you might want to ask him about these issues first. Grey

The stamp isn't an arsenal stamp. Rather, it's a kao, or kakihan, the personal seal of the swordsmith, or if the sword in question is a gunto it might possibly be a stamp used by the manufacturer who sold the sword. Grey Today's conservatives are tomorrow's registered sex offenders.

TAD 64 is an index # in Hawley's, meaning he is the 64th smith listed who signed with the 1st character "Tada". Hawley lists him at 8 points, which is at the low end for that book. The point ranking numbers in Hawley's are often meaningless. Don't worry about the points; study the blade. Grey

Another reason not to buy netsuke from the Chinese fakers is that some of the fakes are real ivory, ivory that comes from illeagally hunted (poached) elephants. Elephants, like many large animals on Earth, are in decline. It has been a long time since a wild elephant has been seen in the forests near where I live. Grey

For what it's worth (not much) here is my take on uchiko/alcohol. If I use uchiko on a sword in polish I use only high quality uchiko, which I purchased from Bob Benson, the polisher in Hawaii. At sword shows in the States I've heard it called 'polisher's uchiko'. I've never experienced scratching with this uchiko. That said, I rarely use uchiko on a sword in polish. When I need to wipe my sword I use a micro fiber cloth. I've been told that the National Sword Museum in Tokyo (NBTHK) uses micro fiber in lieu of uchiko. One thing about micro fiber cloth: new out of the package they have a stitched bound edge. If you're being very careful you'll cut of this stitching, which isn't as soft as the cloth and might trap small particles. The micro fiber can be washed if necessary. Any alcohol combines readily with water; no matter how pure it will pick up moisture from the air. A friend with a great collection cleans his blades with benzene, if I'm not mistaken. Benzene is toxic; don't know as I'd like to use it. As to whether a sword needs to be oiled: hard to say. I tend not to but I've been burned before when a small rust spot appeared. I'd try it only if the sword's last polish was at least 6 months ago, if it is in well made shira-saya (so the blade isn't touching the wood), and if the storage area isn't overly humid. That's what I know. Grey

My understanding of the difference between water and oil quenched blades is that the oil quench leaves a very uninteresting, sleepy hamon and no possibility of ji-nie. A well made oil quench blade should look like a very poorly made water quench. Grey

When you find one of these, copy the # of the real sale and on the page of the fraudulent sale click on "report this item" at the bottom. Next click "copying your listing" and from there you will soon be pasting the real sale # on a form and explaining to ebay exactly what is happening. Grey

I saw this online, on ebay I think. My opinion is that it's a fake. The Kanji are nicely cut but the nakago is all wrong for real Nihonto. Anyone have a better idea? Grey

I make it as, "Minamoto Nobukuni Yoshiaki Saku". Grey

I'm looking at the nakago which is as bright as the day it was made. I've never seen a non stainless gunto nakago that didn't have at least a bit of corrosion. Grey

The blade appears to be stainless steel, which precludes traditional construction. Mike is 100% to be trusted; I think the price is for the mounts, which appear to be much nicer than usual. Grey

This listing on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Old-Samurai-short-sword-vintage_W0QQitemZ110056230141QQihZ001QQcategoryZ95132QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem is of a sword that's been chromed. Do any of you know if it's true that the chroming did no damage and that it can be easily removed, or has the blade been damaged? Grey

To my knowlege, all Japanese NCO swords are semi sharp pieces of steel, machine made, no folding or differential hardening involved. If someone knows better than I, let us know. Grey

Interesting. The characters are readable but unfortunately, they are upside down. This is something I've never seen on a real Japanese sword; I suspect you've bought something else. Here's a chance for someone who knows more than I do to jump in and tell us that the famous Damdifino school always signed upside down. Anyone out there have better news for the sword's owner? And, by the way, rust should never be removed from a sword's nakago except by a competent restorer, if even then. Messed with nakagos seriously decrease a sword's value. Grey