Grey Doffin

Only if someone buys it at that price; otherwise not. Grey

White, unscented tissue paper is fine for a blade in polish. Just be sure that it wasn't made of recycled fibers, which might contain coarse particles. Grey

I also think the kissaki has been messed with. What's more, in every picture the edge looks like it has a secondary bevel. I wonder if some amateur polisher has been practicing on this. I'd definitely stay away from this one. Grey

I don't think any damage would be done with talc, uchiko, or chalk dust, as long as the powder is removed completely. However, I think a photograph done with proper lighting and no powder would be preferable to powder, and a well done oshigata also would show more detail than a powdered nakago. Grey

I'm not bothered by the length of the hi in the nakago; I'm concerned by the length of the ware (defect) in the hi. Also, in one of the pictures I see a strong masame hada, which I wouldn't expect in Bizen-to. If a sword is retempered 2 of the many things that might happen are defects (ware, open grain, fukure) and change of hada (itame tends to become masame). I don't know if the sword is retempered but that is always a possibility. Very difficult to tell from pictures. Grey

About the sword in question, in answer to your questions: There is a mottled, almost polka-dot, appearance to the steel of this sword; I have no idea how that was done but I know it isn't found on real Japanese swords. The sword also has what appears to be a grain, somewhat similar to what would be seen on the real thing. Usually on the fakes this grain is more pronounced; maybe the mottling has something to do with toning it down. On a real Japanese sword, grain is the crystalline structure of the steel made visible by a properly done polish. What you see are individual points that together make a pattern. On the fakes (this one included) what appears to be grain is actually different qualities of steel folded together. What you see on the fakes are lines of different steels as they appear on the side of the sword. Hope I've got this right (think I do but you guys will correct me if I'm not) and hope this helps. Take care, Grey

Just got the dates for Tampa next year: Friday thru Sunday, February 8 to 10, 2008. Grey

Yes, sometimes good items show up at the flea markets. Would you be able to tell them apart from the bad items? Study 1st; then buy. Grey

Scott, If your level of experience with Japanese swords is such that with the sword in hand you can't tell the real thing from a fake, you need to be studying, not buying. Ask around; there's bound to be sword study groups in Northern Japan, museums with swords to see, and books to read. If you don't have at least some knowledge of Nihonto you can be taken advantage of by an unscrupulous seller no matter where you are. Grey

I can't see the 1st kanji in the 1st photo. The 2nd Kanji can be read "dai" and the 3rd can be read "kore" (hard to tell without the context provided by the 1st Kanji) "Kanetoshi Saku" completes the mei. The 2nd photo reads, "Masatoshi Tsukuru". Grey

The original nakago was larger than the center portion of the current nakago; I think we can all agree on this. The only reason I can think of for why it was reduced would be to fit it to some sort of WWII tanto koshirae. It certainly wouldn't have been reduced to allow for the added metal; that wouldn't make sense. At some later date, perhaps recently, the extra steel was added for strength and appearance. I'm surprised that a neater job wasn't done. Anyway, that's what makes sense to me. Grey

And I see no reason to suspect that it is part of a broken sword. Looks to be a perfectly good O-tanto or Ko-wakizashi. Grey

Peter, May I ask who polished it? Seems strange the polisher didn't see it coming and take steps to minimize the damage. Grey

I also warned the buyer of the Hidemitsu; got a similar response from him. I'll try to email all the buyers after the auctions but I won't be able to get all of them right after the sale (especially not the ones that end in the middle of the night here or all those that end on Thursday). If a bunch of us take this on we should be able to warn all the buyers before they pay. Once the sale has ended click on the buyer's name and next on contact member. I told the buyer that the sale is a fraud and gave him the URL of the thread here on the Message Board. Hope you can help. Grey

This is rich. The 1st sword just sold; the buyer is vanguard1818. If we look at this current ebay auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/Japanese-Sword-Samurai-Officers-Sword-LONG-SIGNATURE_W0QQitemZ130099006874QQihZ003QQcategoryZ4080QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem we find that vanguard1818 is a non-paying buyer of Japanese swords. Hope the jerk in Bangkok has lots of fun trying to collect. Grey

The sword in question isn't a real Nihonto. It's a piece of steel with an artificial temper (cosmetic), cast fittings, and sloppy work all around. I suspect his grandfather works in a small shop in China where he works all day to turn out dozens of fake Japanese swords. Buy books and study; don't waste your money on junk. Grey

I'll leave the technical questions (do I have to send the blade or just a tsunagi) to others. I'd like to discuss whether or no this makes sense for your collection. As you progress with your collecting and studying your tastes will likely change. Something that impresses you today might be uninteresting in 10 or 20 years. What you're proposing is putting all your eggs into one basket. What's more, that basket of eggs will be very difficult to sell at anything near your investment when the time comes. If you do this you'll have a sword, either in nice koshirae or in shira-saya with nice koshirae on a tsunagi, and some number of other tsunagis with nice koshirae. Unless they're exceptional or historically important, koshirae on tsunagi are usually worth less than the sum of the parts, which is why they often get broken up when sold. There aren't as many koshirae on tsunagi collectors as there are tsuba or menuki or fuchi/kashira collectors and saya and tsuka are worth less than it costs to have them made. What you propose is possible and if you have your heart set on it, by all means go ahead. Just realize that when you want to sell and move on, you might have to settle for significantly less than you have in. I'll be curious to hear what others have to say on the subject. Grey

The 2 Kanji before Sukesada are the title "Daijo". Kozuke Daijo would be the obvious choice; either the 2 Kanji for Kozuke are smushed together or the "Ko" got left out. Grey

The altered nakago does seriously affect the value of the sword. Just off the top of my head and for instance (not talking about this particular sword): if a sword would be worth $3,000 with an ubu nakago, it might be worth only $2,000 or even less with the nakago as shown. Grey

http://cgi.ebay.com/Japanese-sword-Bisyu-Osafune-Hidemitsu-kabuto-FRAUD_W0QQitemZ300099034718QQihZ020QQcategoryZ95132QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The sword in this auction http://cgi.ebay.com/OLD-ANTIQUE-REAL-Japanese-SAMURAI-STICK-SWORD_W0QQitemZ280100436311QQihZ018QQcategoryZ95132QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem is a fake, but it has something no real Japanese sword could ever have. Can you guess what? Grey

Approximate date on your sword is WWII. It looks to be a Gunto in quasi civilian mounts. Grey

Eric, Other than what's been mentioned so far I would suggest, if funds are available, the following for your library. The 59 issues of "Token Bijutsu" in English from the NBTHK is as good as it gets in English; nothing else tells you as much. The new 2 volume set, Sue Koto, put out by the JSS/US is in English, is attractively priced at $50, and covers some of the lesser known smiths from late Koto. Harry Watson's translations of Nihonto Koza are well worth the expense. I own Yumei Koto Taikan, Nihonto Zuikan, and Shinto Taikan, all of which are very useful. I can also recommend joining all the clubs that publish in English: JSS/US, NBTHK American Branch, Northern California, Florida Token Kai, does one or both of the NTHK groups still put out in English?, and sorry if I've forgotten some. Hope this helps. Grey

Ebay's president is Bill Cobb. He can be reached at: billcobb@ebay.com Grey

I spoke with an ebay rep; here's the straight poop on why the listings are still up. Only the person whose online photos have been stolen can complain about them being stolen. It doesn't make any sense to me but ebay won't stop the sale unless the pictures' owners raise a stink. On the Hidemitsu sale where the scam artist shows pictures of multiple swords, ebay won't remove the listing because "he isn't required to show pictures of the item he is selling." Once again, makes no sense to me. Buyer beware. Grey