Grey Doffin

Hi folks, Books I picked up at the San Francisco show and others that are consigned by a collector in Europe - save on post if you live there. B663. Soshu Den Meisaku Shu. $475. https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/b663-soshu-den-meisaku-shu-by-dr-homma/ B668. Meihin Katanaezu Shusei by Tanobe. $875. https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/b668-meihin-katanaezu-shusei-by-tanobe/ B340. Kiyomaro Taikan. $195. https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/b340-kiyomaro-taikan-by-nakajima-uichi-2/ B785. Fujishiro's Nihon Toko Jiten with Watson's translations. $825. https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/b758-nihon-toko-jiten-koto-shinto-with-full-translations/ B679. Kotetsu and Kiyomaro by Sano Museum. $165. https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/b679-kotetsu-and-kiyomaro-by-sano-museum/ B710. Mino-TO by Cox with Supplement. $95. https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/b710-mino-to-and-supplement-by-cox/ B605. Kanzan Shinto Oshigata Dictionary. $125. https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/b605-kanzan-shinto-oshigata-dictionary/ B350. Iron Tsuba from The Exhibition Kurogane no Hana. $95. https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/fittings-books/b350-iron-tsuba-the-works-of-the-exhibition-kurogane-no-hana/ B889. Facts and Fundamentals of Japanese Swords. $160. https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/b889-facts-and-fundamentals-of-Japanese-swords/ B189. Pinacle of Excellence: The Mitsumura Collection. $70. https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/fittings-books/b189-pinnacle-of-elegance-sword-fittings-of-the-mitsumura-collection/ B579. Sukashi Tsuba by Kremers. $85. https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/fittings-books/b579-sukashi-tsuba-in-europaischen-sammlungen-by-kremers/ B734. Uchigatana Koshirae by Tokyo National Museum with translation. $195. https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/fittings-books/b734-uchigatana-koshirae-with-translation-by-tokyo-national-museum-2/ If any of these catches your eye please send me an email through my site, not personal message here at NMB. I need your emails to keeep track of my business. Thank you, Grey

Hi guys, Not knowing the answer to the acid content by type of wood drying question, I wrote to the US Forest Products Lab in Madison Wisconsin. I summed up the discussion here and linked to this thread. I ended with this question, "Does the acid content differ between air and kiln dried wood of the same species and does the acid disipate over time if the wood is air dried but become concentrated if kiln dried?" The answer just came in: Thanks for the question. Higher temperature drying shifts in pH are generally permanent. Heat effects the hemicelluloses and releases acetic and other acids which lowers the pH of the wood. This can also vary considerably between wood species. As you mentioned, Japanese Magnolia is fairly mild with regards to pH (neutral to slightly basic), so corrosion concerns are less than more acidic species (oak, cherry, walnut - contain acids that react with metals) and softwood species- resin acids, but these volatilize during drying so less of a concern, but still can be corrosive). Hope this helps and let us know if we can provide any additional information. Sincerely, Grant Kirker, Ph.D. Research Forest Products Technologist Forest Service Forest Products Laboratory | Wood Durability and Protection My understanding of the answer tells me that kiln drying can lower the acid content of the wood but it is best to stick with low or no acid species. Grey

Andrew, if you make sure there is a bamboo pin in the hole through the tang and handle, everything is OK to wait till you decide what you want to do with the sword. Grey

Hi Andrew, A brochure on care and handling: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Can you post a picture that shows us what you have for scabbard and handle? You say that it isn't completed but maybe what you have is shirasaya (plain wood scabbard and handle), and that is enough. I wouldn't recommend a polish unless you first take the time to learn a lot more about all that entails. No reason to hurry into this; the sword can wait. Grey

Hi Javier, If you take your pictures on a black background we would be better able to see details and possibly tell you more. As for a polish, I never recommend that a beginner has a sword polished. Polish isn't necessary to preserve the sword; a fine coat of oil will do that just fine. You need to take time to learn a whole lot more about Nihonto. The more you know before you make a decision, about polish or any other question, the happier you will be with the results. Grey

I had never heard that about air dry versus kiln dry and acid content. I asked google and google says, "Air-dried and kiln-dried oak generally contain the same total amount of inherent tannic acid. However, air-dried oak has a higher overall moisture content. Because tannic acid requires moisture to dissolve and become active, air-dried oak tends to be more chemically active and corrosive to fasteners than drier kiln-dried wood." I'd stay away from any wood with significant acid content, no matter how it is dried. Grey

Hi Michael, Here you will find a brochure on care and handling: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Grey

Which is another reason to contact me though email on the site rather than posting or PM on NMB. My phone notifies me when an email comes in and I check. I don't look here more than once or twice a day usually. Grey

Hi Ron, Depends on how much boshi there is; better pix might show the answer. If there weren't the bo hi a polisher could bring the mune forward to lessen the amount the kissaki would have to lose; the hi complicate the matter. Grey

Sorry Sky, those books sold a couple hours ago. B367, Swordsmiths of Japan by Fuller & Gregory has sold also. Grey

Hi folks, I have recently taken in a pile of quite desirable books: B384. Hanayakane Nihonto Bizen Ichimonji $150.00 B367. Swordsmiths of Japan: 1926 - 1945 by Fuller & Gregory. $225. B711. Japanese Swordsmiths Revised by Hawley $275. B758. Nihon Toko Jiten: Koto & Shinto with full translations $850.00 B576. Nihonto Koza as translated by Harry Watson. All 6 volumes. $1,395.00 B679. Kotetsu and Kiyomaro by Sano Museum $165.00 You will find these and so many more at the top of my book pages on my website. If anything interests you please contact me by email through the site, not by Personal Message here on NMB - I need your email to keep track of business. Thanks, Grey

Sorry but I have to disagree a bit. Rice glue is best; it doesn't stain the wood, it won't damage the sword, and it is reversible if the saya ever needs to be taken apart, cleaned inside and reglued. It is necessary that the crack, whether along the seam or along the grain, can be closed completely - no gap - because no wood glue bridges gaps. The 2 halves of the join have to fit snugly together. I use a wood wedge/s to force the crack open a bit and I apply the rice glue with a strip of plastic packaging blister (when you buy a toothbrush the back of the package is paper and the front is plastic blister. That's the plastic to use). Andy's answer just popped up. Since the crack is in the original seam the wedge can go in the mouth of the saya to spread the crack a bit. Once the glue is in the crack remove the wedge and squeeze the saya tight, wipe off any glue that squeezes out, and wrap the saya tightly with bands (I use an old sheet torn into long this strips for this). I usually leave all alone till the next day so any moisture inside the saya can evaporate. Grey.

A different, less expensive but just as informative option, and in English, is Dmitry Pechalov's Japanese Swords: Soshu Den Masterpieces: https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/c265-Japanese-swords-soshu-den-masterpieces-by-pechalov/ Grey

Here is the book on my site: https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/b663-soshu-den-meisaku-shu-by-dr-homma/ to give you an idea what to expect. Such a pity that all books haven't been digitalized, but then, no one would bother to write books. Why go to all the toil and trouble if your work will be stolen? Grey

Hi Matt, If you take photos on a black background, those of us with old eyes will be better able to read the signature. Grey

Hi George, Having koshirae made for a blade in shirasaya is a common desire of beginning collectors and it is almost always a bad idea. Let's say you spend $2,000 for the blade in shirasaya and another $4,000 for the kodogu and labor necessary to make the koshirae. When you are done, if the blade is nice and the koshirae is well done, you should have no trouble selling the set for $3,000 or so. When a collector wants a blade and koshirae, he wants period koshirae, not something put together yesterday by a western collector. If the aim is to have a nice blade in or with koshirae, that is what you should buy to begin with. If you want koshirae to go with your blade in shirasaya, consider buying an existing koshirae mounted on tsunagi (wood blade) to display next to your blade in shirasaya. The blade won't fit in the koshirae but it is best kept in its shirasaya anyway. This will cost much less than having koshirae made. My 2 cents, Grey

Hi Arno, If you take your photos on a black background we'll be better able to see what you have. Grey

I also doubt that this is Japanese; sorry. Grey

I agree: Masauji Saku. Grey

Hi Travis, The sword is real but appears to be fairly low end. Do not have it professionally restored; you don't know any where near enough about it to make that decision. Here you will find a care and handling brochure you should read: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Grey

Hi Kyle, If you use a black background for your pictures we will be able to see more detail. Why are you so sure the sword is retempered? The large chip likely happened at the hands of some yahoo playing samurai. Grey

Hi Charles, If you take pictures on a dark background we'll be able to see more detail. Grey

This doesn't look right. It is either low end WWII war time or a fake. Grey

What is a retrospective appraisal? Grey

Sorry Dale but I have to strongly disagree; donating to a museum, local or otherwise, is a terrible idea. If donated the tsuba might be put on display for a short time but then will be relegated to the basement where they will rot away. If the collection is important and the museum has a serious interest in and knowledge of Nihont, that's another story but common stuff and a common museum is a recipe for ruin. Tsuba and all other Nihonto art are best kept by collectors who appreciate and know how to preserve them. Grey