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Hi Paul, Thank you for your guidance. I am not too confident that this sword will polish out nicely, either. That's precisely why I am soliciting guidance from the membership here. One thing for sure is that this is not a Chinese fake. I think you are right about it being late Edo, though. I have attached 2 more pictures for your consideration. The lack of sori and the suguta suggest shinshinto. Anymore thoughts you might have about the sword would be much appreciated. Regards, Hoanh

Hi Everyone, How would you characterize the hada in the pictures? Would you say itame, mokume with itame, or would you say mokume (o- or chu-)? If you want to see picture of the nakago (mumei) and/or of the suguta, please let me know. I apologize, but the sword is badly out of polish. Part of what I am trying to figure out is whether I should spend money to have it polished or preserve it as is. I am looking for guidance, so please let me know your opinion. Some measurements: Nagasa: 27 1/2" (70cm) Nakago: 8 1/4" (21cm) Sori: 3/4" (1.9cm) Motohaba: 1.3" (3.3cm) Motokasane: 0.3" (7.6mm) Thank you, Hoanh

Jon, Can you give some measurements? Looking at the picture gives me a sense that your sword is somewhat short, maybe 24" to 25" nagasa, but definite measurements are always better than guesstimates. Anyhow, I'm a beginner, but I'm willing to peek over the fox hole The two mekugi ana just means that the sword was mounted at least twice in its lifetime. With the nakago not looking terribly old, together with the lack of sori, I would guess shinshinto. The saya was probably not original, as far as how the sword was carried in WW2. Somebody probably dumped the gunto saya for a replacement after WW2. Otherwise, it would have been unacceptable as it would not have conformed to regulations. I like your sword. Regards, Hoanh

Thank you Adam. Regards, Hoanh

Brian, Would you say this sword is o-mokume, chu-mokume, or ko-mokume? Or am I off course all together? Regards, Hoanh

Comments from my point of view as an martial arts practitioner: 1. In actual gruesome combat (as in a real war), I would probably prefer a sword of about 60cm-65cm long. The reason is simple: this length allows me to use the sword either one-handed or two-handed. It is short enough for close quarters but long enough to generate enough cutting power to do the job with a single strike. 2. In tameshigeri, we tend to use the longest blade suitable for our heights although monouchi is only about 10cm long. This is because the longer the blades are, the larger the circles drawn by the kissaki are as the swords are swung. Assuming the practitioner swings swords at approximately the same angular speed regardless of length, monouchi of longer swords will move at greater linear speed and therefore have more cutting power. Of course, the cutting power comes at the expense of the person swinging the swords as at takes more power to swing longer swords. Requirements #1 and #2 are very different because the situations are different. I don't think there are any inconsistencies, though. That may explain your astute observations in your original post. Disclosure: I use a non-traditionally made sword from the Korean company "Martial Art Swords" for kata practice and cutting. The sword carries a lifetime warranty against breaking and bending . Personally, I would never use nihonto for such purpose. They are too precious from a historical perspective. Regards, Hoanh

Hi Jeff, I'm probably sticking my neck out a little too far here. If the asking price for the blade in question is below $3k, and you like the blade, I would go for it if I were you. If and when the time comes, you could easily recoup your money. If the asking price is over $3k, and I have the feeling it is, I would hesitate as you will take a loss when it's time to sell the blade. It all depends on how much of a loss you are willing to tolerate for the right to hold the blade in hand to study it at your leisure. IMHO, Nihonto are pretty much like financial stocks. You don't own them. You are a temporary custodian, and in effect, you rent them. I hope what I said helps a little. Regards, Hoanh

I agree with Bob. With NBTHK Hozon and no obvious flaws, at least $2k-$3k. $1k is what you would expect to pay for a so-so showato in gunto mounts with no papers, of course). Regards, Hoanh

Thank you Chris. Bob, I have not seen "ju" written that way, either. Learning something new everyday. Regards, Hoanh

Hi, I am having a bit of a difficulty with the second kanji. I think (not 100% positive) the mei reads "Seki ... Kanemitsu Saku." Any help is much appreciated. For those of us based in the US, have a great Memorial Day weekend. Regards, Hoanh

Hi J. Jorgensen, If the sword is taken out and cleaned often, then I don't see a problem. Regards, Hoanh

Gentlemen, Let me confess up front in the spirit of full disclosure! I am a physicist, not an engineer and far from a chemist, but here goes. What Adam said is exactly right. From a chemist's point of view, the electromotive potential for Au+ +e- = Au is 1.692V, and the electromotive potential for Fe++ + 2e- = Fe id -0.447V. The net electromotive potential for the Au/Fe junction, in the presence of an aqueous solution is 2*1.692V-(-0.447V)=3.831V. Because Au is an inert metal, the corrosion will occur only on the Fe side. Adam is also correct in saying that the same galvanic reaction occurs under the habaki. My numbers may not be precisely correct, but they are in the right ballpark. After all, I'm a physicist. If I'm within a factor of 2 from the correct answer, I'm happy. Regards, Hoanh

Hi Martin, Very well put and poetic. I like your explanation and the way you put it. Regards, Hoanh

Hi Grey, You have the mind of a scientist, always one step ahead The magnitude of the thermo-couple voltage depends on three factors: type of junction, temperature of the junction, and the lengths of the lead wires on either side of the junction. In the case of a tsuba gold inlay, the amount of material is not enough the generate a sufficiently large thermo-couple voltage to cause corrosion. In the case of plumbing pipping, if there is material mismatch (copper+galvanized pipes), usually the pipe lengths are fairly significant that corrosion will eventually occur, over periods of decades. You, sir, have a very sharp and logical mind. I appreciate it! Regards, Hoanh

Hi Martin, You are describing correctly a common effect occurring when two different metals come into contact with each other. A thermal-couple voltage arises at the junction (contact point). This thermal-couple voltage varies with the temperature of the junction. In fact, that's exactly how thermal-couple probes work to measure temperatures. The temperature versus voltage curve is tabulated and calibrated (experimentally) for each type of junction. We stick that thermal couple junction into the location where we wish to measure the temperature and read off the voltage that results at the junction. The tabulated (calibration) data will tell us what the temperature is from the voltage. By the same token, we don't want to join copper tubing with galvanized tubing in our household plumbing lines as the resulting thermal-couple voltage at the junction of two different metals will cause the junction to corrode with time. However, it means that having gold come in contact with another metal (the nihonto in this case) will be detrimental to the nihonto as the thermal couple voltage will cause the nihonto to corrode over time. Gold doesn't care as it is an inert metal. The nihonto cares, though. The effect is the opposite of what we hope for. There must be different reason for the gold paint. I am not smart enough to figure that one out, though Regards, Hoanh

Thank you Keith. Very interesting analysis! I suppose 23.5" is on the very short end of the katana range, so it's still acceptable to call it a katana. The hamon is not sophisticated, but pleasing to look at. Regards, Hoanh

Hi Keith, I tried taking close up pictures of small segments of the blade. The pics are in good focus and I didn't have to degrade the resolution. If they still are not sufficiently hires, then my lens is probably not good enough for the job. Regards, Hoanh

Hi Keith, Here is a pic of the overall shape. In the mean time, I'll make another attempt at hi res pics. Regards, Hoanh

Hi Everyone, After some fiddling around, I managed to take better pictures. I don't know if the pics are good enough to dating the blade approximately, but they are better than before. Regards, Hoanh

Hi Jean and Jacques, OK, I understand the question now - with the sword's *ACTUAL* alignment of the hamachi and munemachi, not about my artistic talent with combining pictures. In reality, with the sword in hand, the hamachi and munemachi do match up well. Above is another picture of the nakago. When I combine the pictures, they appear not to match up due to my lack of proficiency with pictures. BTW, ubu means unaltered, and the nakago is unquestionably unaltered, as I can see the sword in hand. Regards, Hoanh

Hi Jean, I don't understand your remark. Will you please expand on it? Regards, Hoanh

Hi Martin and Jacques, I am a bit bothered by how long the nakago is, too, but don't know how to deal with this issue. It's ubu - no question about that. Would it be proper to call this sword a ko katana then? Regards, Hoanh

Thank you Keith! I'm glad you found my analogy humorous! Jean: You are right about the munemachi and the hamachi not lining up. I am not too proficient with Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Illustrator. On top of that, I'm not too good of a photographer. The (deadly) combination shows in the first picture. I took two different photographs, one of the omote and one of the ura side. Then I cropped each one, inserted the cropped pictures into an Adobe Illustrator canvas and resize them and move them around until they approximately match up. I don't know of a way to do it precisely. Any suggestions on how I can do a better job would be much appreciated as always. Regards, Hoanh

Hi Keith, No offense is taken at all. Your comment is noted and understood. :lol: As far as the name kodachi vs. uchigatana goes, I have come to an internal resolution. I am speculating that upper class samurai didn't want their weapons, the kodachi, to be associated with weapons of soldiers of low status, so a new word, uchigatana, had to be invented. Kind of like how Lexus are basically Toyota, but with higher quality. Same thing with Acura and Honda. Before the membership comes down on me here, I beg for leniency :lol: Like I said, this is just my way of internalizing the different angles I have been given between kodachi and uchigatana. Regards, Hoanh

Hi Adam and Keith, Thank you both for your opinions. What you guys said resonate with each other and with the fact that generally, uchigatana are more abundant and are of lower quality than kodachi. I understand your logic well. So, to follow with your logic (and to expand for my own edification), since kodachi were meant for the upper class, so to speak, they were of higher quality and therefore were more likely to be signed. So, if the nakago is ubu, one would likely expect to see a tachi mei. In the absence of a tachi mei for an ubu nakago, the safe assumption would be that it's an uchigatana. If it's signed katana mei, then there is clearly no confusion. Correct? Wheeeew!! Finally something I can sink my teeth into. I like your logic and explanation. Thank you guys again. Now, I have a different question. From the point of view of a martial artist, which I am, since the kodachi and the uchigatana are so similar in shape, the only *FUNCTIONAL* difference between them is in how one mounts and wears them. Kodachi: edge down, draws then cuts in two separate motions. Uchigatana: edge up, draws and cuts in one motion. Why on earth would they call them different names to confuse us poor souls? May be the answer is in the idiosyncrasies of the Japanese language (my speculation)? This question probably should be referred to a linguist. It may not be fair to pose questions of this nature to the membership here. Thanks to everyone who has helped me this far in my struggle with this issue. I don't understand it completely, but I do understand it more than when I started this thread. For me, that's real progress. Regards, Hoanh