Derek

Ohota Katsuhisa Syouten Co Choji Oil ...... Smell = None Consistency = Clear, medium sticky. Protection = B- Overall = Probably based on mineral oil. Similar performance. I've used this for a long time, and no complaints. $20 for 18cc glass bottle, from Japanese dealer.

Mineral Oil...... Smell = None. Consistency = Clear, average thickness. Protection = B- Overall = No color, no smell, thick. Safe to consume, in case you ever need to use your nihonto to cut supper… $3 for 1 pint bottle, at most stores.

Breakfree Collector...... Smell = Average oil. Consistency = Yellow, thick. Protection = A+ Overall = Also an interesting option. It seems to behave like CLP without the cleaning part, with better protection. This stuff never showed even a hint of corrosion. My only problem with it, is that it leaves a very sticky residue, probably the most of anything I tested; it is like a magnet for dirt and dust. Again, If I were in a very humid climate, I would really look at this. $10 for 4 ounce bottle, online.

Eezox...... Smell = Very bad. Gives me a headache. Consistency = Very light yellow, evaporates leaving very light film. Protection = A+ Overall = This one is very interesting. It stinks, but may have the best protection of everything I tested. It seems to have a cleaning chemical, along with something like a wax. After looking at the msds, I would be worried about using this long term. Very mixed reviews online. If I were to move to a climate that exposed my sword to constant salt, humidity,and dampness, I would be tempted to use it. $10 for 1.5 ounce bottle, sold online.

Breakfree CLP...... Smell = Average oil. Consistency = Yellow, thick. Protection = A Overall = I used this stuff forever on my firearms, and it works well. It has the cleaning aspect, which worries me on my nihonto though, especially residue in the shirasaya. $6 for 4 ounce bottle, at most stores.

Tuf Glide...... Smell = Like plastic and oil. Not bad, but noticeable Consistency = Brown, like soy sauce. Goes on thin. Protection = B Overall = Protection is good, but seems to leave residue. Messy application. $15 for 1 ounce can, on ebay.

Singer Sewing Machine Oil...... Smell = None. Consistency = Clear, very light oil. Protection = C+ Overall = Goes on easy, not sticky, basic protection. $4 for 4 ounce bottle, at Walmart.

M Pro 7...... Smell = None. Consistency = Cloudy, looks like melted butter. Protection = B- Overall = . Goes on thick and cloudy, but seems ok after. Medium stickiness. $9 for 4 ounce bottle, at sporting goods stores.

3 in 1 oil...... Smell = Not as bad as motor oil, but almost. Consistency = Thick, sticky. Protection = C+ Overall = Also an ok performer, but odor and stickiness would keep me away. $4 for 3 ounce bottle, at home improvement store.

Hoppes...... Smell = None. Consistency = Very light yellow, thin, average stickiness. Protection = C Overall = seemed ok, not a lot of protection. $6 for 4 ounce bottle, at most stores.

WD 40...... Smell = Very bad. Consistency = Clear, evaporates leaving light film. Protection = D+ Overall = Very poor performer. Messy from overspray. I worry about the cleaning portion, and what it would do over time. Protection at first looks good, but less so over time. Smells very bad. $4 for 8 ounce can, at most stores.

Motor Oil...... Smell = Very bad. Consistency = Thick amber color. Protection = D Overall = Very poor performer. I used this mostly as a base line, as everyone is familiar with this stuff. (I used Valvoline, if it makes any difference....)

Before I discuss any observations, I would start by reminding everyone that oil need should vary by climate. As Jean always says, no oil needed for him. Our summers are very humid, so oil is necessary for me here. I have no dog in this fight, as they say. I only wanted to find out what is available, and what I should use on my nihonto. I repeated the experiment twice, with very similar outcomes; some of the results were very interesting:

This is the best test I can think of to practically test nihonto oil. I wanted to use a broken blade, but the ones I have seen at auction have sold for over $100. I would test the samples without saline, but it would take months in my climate to see even the start of rust on even the part untreated with oil. This will be my final testing, as I have spent over $200 just in oil….. Again, my point was to test available oil for use on nihonto. The tests that I have seen online seem to geared towards firearms. I have had many private messages that have been very supportive, but a few from people that obviously missed the point; I am not trying to find a product that will let me soak my nihonto in salt water..... I think that this test is a fair way to compare the corrosion protection of various oil.

Cont 3

Cont 2

Last update:

At 24 hours, these are my observations: Breakfree Collector, CLP, Eezox,and Fujishiro oil show no change. WD40, Tuf Glide, and OHS Choji oil show a very slight discoloration. MPro 7, Camillia, OKS Choji, Rem Oil, 3-1, and Choji oil all have light, but clear discoloration. Hoppes, Motor oil, Singer machine oil, and Mineral oil all display medium to dark discoloration. The control area has rust.

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24 Hour update:

So, at 12 hours, these are my observations: No change: Breakfree CLP, Tuf-glide, MPro7, Breakfree Collector, Fujishiro Oil, WD40, Eezox Very light discoloration: Camillia Oil, 3 in 1, Rem Oil, and OHS Choji Oil Light discoloration : Mineral Oil, OKS Choji Oil, Motor Oil, Hoppes, Singer, 御刀油 Choji Oil Dark discoloration: Control Next check at 24 hrs.....

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First check at 12 hours:

Sorry for the delay.... Life got in the way, so experiment went 48 hrs without photos! I intended to repeat it anyway, so oh well.... Some surprises, but I will wait until the end to make some observations. I ground the metal back down, sanded it, and reapplied oil. Photos to come.

8 hour update next.