CurtisR

My apologies Mr. Brooks - I truly am terrible at it, but will make you a "deal"...so as to keep your grump-factor down, I'll exhaust all means before requesting help on NMB. I've actually gotten a few correct, which I consider a personal victory even though I'm wrong more than right. If I can't figure it out, I'll find other sources. Didn't mean to offend. Curtis R.

Thank you Mr. Bowen...I am a complete mess when it comes to Kanji and "styles" --- even enrolled in a class to help me (hopefully they will not throw me out!!). Curtis R.

I cannot read this mei, other than "Living in Eichizen"...I know the photos aren't the greatest, but am hoping I'm at least close...(P.S. - I didn't take the photos!!). Curtis R.

Greetings all, Thought I'd share a couple of photos for the sake of posterity with the board's database of a wakizashi Tsuba. Iron, and my guess is that it's a Clam or some such shellfish theme but I'm open to suggections. Also, many thanks much to Mr. Bowen who gave me the translation as the kanji were driving me insane . Echizen ju Kiani is listed as an importan smith during the 1700's (edo) - after doing research I've found that much of his work was of sukashi style, so perhaps this one's a bit more unique? I'm sorry I don't have easurements of images of the mimi posted, but certainly can if anyone would like. It was attached to a fairly nice wak with an interesting hamon (probably Gumone Togare)that fits the period, although un-signed. Weight is 551 grams. Curtis R.

I've tried this one repeatedly but it's not making sense...perhaps a little help will let me find the kanji? It is from an un-signed blade, probably shinshinto period, and the tsuba looks to be decent work. Many thanks Curtis R.

Excellent information - thank you all! I usually shoot in RAW and then convert to TIFF for clean-up, then to JPEG if I have to. I try to shoot at the lowest ISO possible with good light, which is easier than most of the wildlife I've photographed. I keep my monitor balanced to the output temp. of the processing program also, although I don't do much printing. May have to start though! I'll be posting some images in the "for sale" section soon, so feel free to critique them as well as the offerings :D . Like Jean, I'll be giving this one a re-read also... again, many thanks! Curtis R.

Hello All, I've been noticing that in my reference books, most of the pics of the nihonto and many times even the fittings are done in black & white (or is it called grayscale now? ) ,,,my question is simple - when I photograph blades and their detail, should I go with B&W vs. color? Of course w/ photoshop I can turn color to B&W but not the other way 'round. I'm guessing the contrast is better in B&W, but color also shows age, etc. more effectively IMHO. thoughts are appreciated! Curtis R.

Thank you Morita-san! I had not found that listing but have it put in my database now. Curtis R.

Thanks Mr. Bowen --- I *thought* I had my ducks in a row...slowly but surely I'm getting this down . I'll PM you ASAP BTW, no worries. Curtis R.

Hello All - I found the Oshigata for this smith, but am having a difficult time determining what years he worked. The owner seems to thing it's before 1900, but based on the nakago, etc., I'm thinking 1930's and 1940's. He sent me some very poor pics of the blade, etc. but I will post more very soon, just for the sake of the Board. Many thanks, Curtis R. Lakewood, CO USA

Thanks Mr. Bowen - seems I'm getting (a bit) better at this .

This is the opnly photo I have as yet, so my apologies. I'll be getting more soon. What I've come up with it: "Fujiwara (?) Kore Saku" but cant yet figure out the other kanji./ My Fujiwara may also be :"OFF" but I don't think so...came in gunto mounts, and as I said, no other pics of the blade but I'm guessing Shawato for sure? Thanks in advance...been off the board healing from a bad back injury but am A-O.K. now and glad to be back on the "Board of Knowledge"! Curtis R.

Thanks for posting the pics David - that makes perfect sense, and although here in Colorado we don't have the humidity that Ken would have to deal with, it looks like a neat little trick & easy to do! I'm finding it's the little tips and planning that can save a LOT of work (and money from learning the hard way ) . Again, I appreciate everyone's thoughts and experience. Curtis R.

True George, it could bend which would put a damper on a finger or two for sure (well, you know what I mean lol). Hmmm...seems to be an issue of a combo of safety AND aesthetics. Perhaps the solution will be to get smaller diameter seppa. And to David, yes please do post a pic or two of the leather/seppa combination if you get the chance - I'm pretty sure I know what you mean but it's better to be sure, eh? Great info from all, and thank you again! Curtis

Thank you David (very cool website BTW!)...I never thought of using leather but it's a great idea. My Sensei uses a Koto sword and his tsuba is getting loose. Perhaps I'll amaze him with that little trick as well - or at least suggest it as a temporary fix. With leather, once it wears thin it could be easily replaced, too. I like it! My next piece of the puzzle will be a new Tsuka & wrap but not sure who I'll have do the work as yet. Thinking I'd like the tsuka and saya done by one sayashi, but would also need the tsukamaki as well so...decisions, decisions . Curtis R.

Thank you John, that was my 'gut feeling' but want to get it right. It's a decent blade and i want to do it justice (which is why the remainder of the fittings will be done by professional craftsmen!). I sincerely appreciate the knowledge that I gain here on NMB! Curtis R. Denver, CO

Greetings all, I've fitted a nice (Gendai but Japanese-made, simple design - Mino, and Iron) Tsuba to a showa-to, intending to use it for Iai (although more parts to have made...). My question is this; when fitting the seppa, is it correct to "carve out" the seppa's portion of the hitsu-ana if the seppa covers them somewhat or is it acceptable to leave the overlap in place? I've seen both done, but am trying to be as accurate as possible. Many thanks in advance for any input. Curtis R. BTW, for others who might be working on similar projects, I highly recommend http://www.yamatobudogu.com/Fittings_s/1.htm

Thank you Lee - I appreciate the ideas for sure....the Tsuba won't be antique, but I DO want it to look nicely done when fitted so your tips will come in useful!! And I think I actually have the tools, which is a huge start (glad you confirmed my suspicions though ). Curtis R.

Greetings all, I've heard a reliable rumor that Ford H. had a video of how to fit/install sekigana into a tsuba. I've looked everywhere but can't find it (even in Following the Iron Brush) ~~ would anyone know where I might find the video and/or photo essay? I'm planning a project on a gendai tsuba (although nicely made in iron) in the next few months and would like to know the right way to go about it. Many thanks in advance, Curtis R.

Very nice score (and surprise) Mr. Bowen! I'd come to believe that eBay didn't have much to offer but as someone mentioned earlier, experience led the way. Thanks for posting your decision-making process on this one too; very rational and I learned from that. I'd be curious to know what your heart- rate jumped to after seeing the Wak, and as you removed the Katana's tsuka lol. :D AND you kept the wife happy....now THAT = skills! Best Regards, Curtis R.

If I may interject 2 practical points on this subject vs. metallurgy? I humbly submit, as a former soldier who was trained in Long Range Recon op's (meaning a team of 4 to 6 guys sneaking around where they shouldn't be) up to Battalion-sized combat ops, it really comes down to "what SHOULD I do, what is the BEST I can do, or what MUST I do?" In LRP op's we would try not to be seen/heard. Even in the early 80's, the two best knives one could have were either a U.S. Mk3 trench knife, or one made by Randall. There were of course techniques for assisting in correct silent killing, but the knife was king for this (far and above a garrote). Disturbing but true.That's a "what SHOULD I do?" And pleeeeease don't get me started on Supressons (aka "Silencers"). Not even in the same continent when it comes to combat. In other operations, the rifle was king. The knife came after all other ammo was expended. Basically, when you were "f'd" and unless you could get to another gun; you had the blade. I can imagine that in WWII Japanese warfare, a well-forged sword (or even a well cared-for stamped blade) was a nice thing to have in-hand when being overrun, making the last stand, etc. (AKA -what MUST I do?). I can also see them being used well in LRP op's of the Japanese genre, although I haven't heard of this officially (One kesagiri and not much noise lol). I'd say a Wakizashi would serve best, but JMO. On a side note, when your fellow soldiers saw you with a fine blade (I'd bet this translates to the Japanese soul as well), they knew you were good-to-go. I hope this can add tot he discussion, and apologize if it doesn't. Curtis R.

Thank you all! Fascination opinions and facts ("illiquid" :D ) and a lot to consider. Personally, I am an older guy - 50's - and since I intend to keep the blades I have, am not in a huge hurry to have them cobbled together (although with time and care I'm thinking I could come close to a great looking set - but it may take years as mentioned) and want to pay the proper respect to the blade and it's maker. Over time I've been pretty fortunate to make a bit here & there on knives, guns, etc but swords are a "whole 'nother country". For me - and only me - I'd undertake the project for what it adds to the blade vs. the value gained overall in the near future, although after I'm dead & gone it may end up being financially worth it as well to those it passes to. As also stated, there's no way to know what the market will do. Who'd have thought than an AR-15 (or M4) that went for $400.00 in 2004 would now be roughly 1.5k? Or that the price of gold/silver would have gone through the roof as it did? Having carried one, and owned some, an M4 doesn't have a soul, nor does gold. Nihonto do, IMHO (although Sniper rifles are the exception...like the Nihonto, no one is allowed to touch your gun at risk of an a@@ beating - seriously). I do especially like Chris' observation that there's no need to justify an obsession and to afford what you can afford, yet Bary also makes a good caveat of not throwing money at the problem without real thought. Also cracked up at Alex' comment that we're ALL daft . Something Dennis said rang very true for me as well..."Shirasaya contains a blade, while koshiae contains a sword". Long story longer, I'll have to ponder (and save $$) on my next move, but regardless I've taken away "Don't have a cut-rate job done, no matter what!" Perhaps one day Ford H. will have a "clearing house sale" (riiiiiiight ) and I can score lol. Again, thanks for the wealth of knowledge shared - invaluable! I'm hoping to meet some of you fine gents @ a U.S. shinsa next year as well. Cheers! Curtis R. P.S. I've had two 'standard grade' shirasaya done by Mr. John Tirado and must say that while I Do decide what to do, he's made beautiful & artful homes for each blade!!

Ahhhh that's what I was afraid of, but better to ask FIRST from those who've been there than to get the "uh- ohhh" factor! I will look at Aoi, but am thinking its best left alone!any thanks to all - and good to know if bare blades show up in my future. Curtis R.

Greetings all~ I recently had a decent blade placed into shirasaya, and love it. It is by a decent smith and traditionally forged. My question is this: Does one - once deciding to put it into koshrae - start with the f/k, or the tsuba, or....? I'd like it to be themed, but subtle. It has a beautiful habaki in silver (courtesy of Mr. Tirado) but where does one go from there when deciding the theme/mounts/menuki? Many thanks, and to Jean....I'm reading the posts often now :D . Curtis R.

Hi Brian, and thanks Sir ~ I suspect we'll find the same here, although when holding it in-hand, it seems of very nice quality and the strokes of the signature seem to flow pretty well. Bleed-through on the back, proper coloring for the age, etc. It's owned by one of my superiors, so I'm neutral either way but wanted to "go to the well of knowledge" before sending him further... Many thanks, Curtis R.