Jump to content

Geraint

Members
  • Posts

    2,920
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

Everything posted by Geraint

  1. I should think that anyone kicking an old jar head was likely to feel pretty bad in quite a short time!
  2. Dear Ivo. I hope you have already acted on this one, the koshirae is lovely, gold and silver foiled seppa, fukurin on the tsuba and alls orts of other things. Go, Go ,Go! All the best. P.S. Not sure why this is in the Military swords section, nothing remotely military about this one
  3. So, kogarasu maru no bo it is then. Not sure what else you might call it but attached is the image from the reference I quoted. Agghhhh! So many buttons, Apologies for multiple posts.
  4. Hi Dirk. Lovely thing. I have only come across this sugata once before and have just been searching for it. Delighted to say that memory served me well. Christie's sale, June 97 Described as follows. "An Oaka school naginata no saki. Mei: Inoue Shinkai with chrysanthemum mark. Dated Empo Ninen ni-gatsu. (1674) An unusual elegant kata -shobu form socket type, (fukuro), saki zori, ryoha, forging pattern very tight itame, with ji-nie, tempered edge naka-suguha of nie to ryoha, the socket ubu" If you haven't come across it have a look here, https://www.pinterest.com/nihonnokatchu/naginata-and-nagamaki/ All the best.
  5. Dear All. Two points; why are we discussing this as gimei when we have nothing to compare it with? So far all we know is that we have a nimei of Kuniyuki. Second I don't think anyone has mentioned that it is tachi mei. Given the condition of the nakago and other things this makes it seem even more likely a gimei but we don't have much to go on yet, unless I am missing something. Thirdly, (yes I know I said two points but hey!) the problem with the type of glue used for shirasaya is not confined to scratches, some modern glues seem to hold moisture in such a way that contact with the sword can cause rusting. Most woodworkers would tend to apply too much glue and seepage inside the saya can be a real problem. I'll crawl back into the woodpile now. All the best
  6. Hi. Well, the good news is that the sword is Japanese and in spite of some rusting looks sound. The signature is another issue. Try doing a search for Inoue Shinkai. You will find many papered examples to compare to your sword but it must be said that the likelihood of this being a genuine signature is very small. That said, should the signature be false that will not mean that the sword is worthless, false signatures can be removed by experts and the blade may still be a good one. It is very hard to judge a sword from photographs and it may be that having two pairs of seppa indicates that the tsuba has been swapped but some more images of the koshirae would be nice. Hope that helps. All the best.
  7. From Nohon To Koza, " ..for the time being, those of Enbun (1356 - 1361) and Joji (1362 - 1368) are considered to be the shodai, those later until Oei (1394 - 1428) are considered to be the nidai and those from Oei (1394 - 1428) to Eikyo (1428 - 1441) are considered to be the sandai, and I would like to study this further". Leaves some wiggle room between nidai and shodai for this date. In either case this is a very nice tanto and koshirae, must do some more saving. All the best.
  8. Hi James The blade is dated and Nick gives it as 1421...................? However it seems that the dating of generations is not entirely clear. This example might help. http://swordsofjapan.com/project/joshu-nobukuni/
  9. Hi John. I am guessing other than this one? http://www3.telus.net/sword/sword/index.htm/MyWebs6/Yoshimas.htm All the best
  10. Looks right to me. The Inshu Kanesaki smiths are a little difficult to track down it seems. There is a tendency for them to use the Kanetsugu mei early in their careers before using Kanesaki, it seems. Have a look at this one, http://www.nihonto.us/INSHU%20KANETSUGU%20KATANA.htm I think this one would be before yours but the later Kanesaki smiths seem to have produced hamon that show their Mino origins but in rather restrained style as far as activity within the hamon goes, whereas yours is much more interesting from that point of view. As far as I have been able to discover the school begins with Mino Kanesaki in the very end of the Muromachi period. He seems to have moved around a little before settling in Inaba. The lineage then runs through to the Meiji period. Not directly connected to yours but the same school see this one, http://yakiba.com/Kat_Kanesaki.htm If you find out anything more about them I would be keen to hear it. I have been looking into them for some time. All the best. Promise I'll stop soon but here is another one of the lineage, http://www.to-ken.com/full.php?article=sr000090&type=swordRegister
  11. Hi Harvey. Congratulations, you must be pleased. I take some comfort from the the assurance that there was something good in the blade. The big question is to whom or to which school did they attribute it? Enjoy yourself. Geraint
  12. Hi Chris. The demarcation is at 24 inches or approximately 60 cms. At or above is a katana, below a wakizashi. There are subtleties but this is the general rule. That's measured from the tip to the mune machi. So if the length you quote is from tip to the machi then it is a katana. Looking forward to finding out what happens at shinsa but whatever the outcome enjoy the sword. All the best.
  13. Hi Bob. I'm thinking that would be sosho....? Whoever got this one did well I think, from the photographs on the site. All the best
  14. Hi Ian. Glad this turned out better than we all feared. All the best.
  15. I agree with Brian, black horn is the way to go. Would like to see this one. All the best.
  16. Dear Hamish. As in Kamiyoshi, Hirata Hikozo, Jingo? I think Higo school is a bit of a generalisation with too much variation between them to class as one thing. All the best.
  17. Hi Guido. 20 years, but the blink of an eye in this hobby! All the best.
  18. If you have not seen this link it might be useful. http://www.japaneseswordindex.com/tsuba/tsubaid.htm All the best.
  19. Well there you are, I just messaged you with the same offer. How good is NMB! All the best.
  20. Dear Thibault. Not too difficult to do yourself if you have the tools. A thin leaf of spring steel and a brass rivet are all that is needed. Failing that it might be worth asking here: http://www.guntoartswords.com/ All the best
  21. While most of these are pretty bad there is a range of quality with the best being superbly carved. These are not at that level but they are better than average. Have a look at the blade of the second sword, surely a true Nihonto. All the best.
  22. Looking again, (Isn't it frustrating sometimes, having to do all this without the thing in hand?) I wonder if the line is in fact an accumulation of dirt around the location of the seppa. Worth some gentle attention with some bone to see if it yields. All the best. Geraint
  23. Hi Ron. I think Brian is right about the seppa outline. Have a look at this one on Grey's site, http://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/holbrook-tsuba/h353-saotome-tsuba Perhaps an early plate with added work. I really like it by the way. All the best.
  24. Dear Steve. Forgive me if I am stating the obvious but this is a nice package. Pierced tsuba with a company mark, the full set of seppa, family mon on the kabuto gane and what seems to be a sword remounted in a combat saya. While this may not be the most fabulous sword in terms of Nihonto it is a very attractive package as an example of the sort of history you are interested in. All the best.
  25. Geraint

    Nanban Tsuba

    Hi Jason. Gama senin with a toad. Nice example here, http://art.thewalters.org/detail/35169/tsuba-with-the-chinese-immortal-gama-sennin/ You have to look at the back to find his toad. All the best.
×
×
  • Create New...