Ruben

Of course you now how to use it, but it´s about fighting, the timing and emotions are real than! And Kogarasu maru seems it has little of both Koshi zori and Saki zori and nearly straight in the middle! And for shure not every Samurai knew how to use the two swords correctly, they also just went out and it was just a part of there uniform later. Or one is so good that it does not matter what he uses to strike someone down, he even takes his brush. ruben

Lets keep it simple as possible, I think it´s all about moving the balance point of the balde! When using a straight sword, for example "Kanbun Shinto" sugata type (still has little koshi zori to it), more linear/horizontal/fast strikes are possible, or better say necessary. You snapp him with monouchi direct in the face / with kissaki on the forehead. It´s more like a wrist snapp combined with strong force in straight forward motion, to always keep your center line lets say. Of course with out Kabuto, otherwise the enemy would laugh at you. Or simple stabbing, this works well with straight swords. A little sting in the face or left eye, ..... for shure a benefit in a duel! For curved blades the striking is different, it´s kind of a big motion, there are so many ways to cut somthing... Shure it all depends on the situation. On horseback a koshi zori blade makes perfect sense, the chance to cutting off the horses butt or ears is less , at the same time you can use this limited space and freedom of degree for striking motions. Monouchi is nearly straight, but deep koshi zori, shure also good for lashing the horse :D. Greetings ruben

Oh no, ... its not nonsense! :lol: A good swordman will choose his wappon carefully or adapt him to it, this two ways are possible... to avoid early death. :x Regarding the drawing issue, ....for example, the Tachi can be turned to draw. I think it should be, otherwise you cut your saya or your finger when making noto again.lol For just drawing, the Sori of course makes some difference, but it´s possible to handle any sword. The Hayashizaki Ryu uses big daito in close distance, everything is possible... The key for it is "Tai Sabaki" and "Sayabiki", even 3 Shaku is not realy a problem. On horse back it´s maybe not necessary to get the blade out of Saya quickly. It would be better to just relax with the curved tsuka in your right hand, bound to the wrist, galloping as fast as possible to crush the enemy´s helmets from above. PS: Interesting discussion, thank´s to all so far... Regards ruben

No he isn´t! Greetings ruben

Hi Ken and Gentlemen, good queustion, I asked me the same when starting Kendo. Came from Iai practice before. A straight sword is totaly different feeling when beeing used, its harder to swing, it requires more precision and some movements are pretty hard to do. For example cutting from bottom to top. Saki Sori would be good on horseback, cutting one handned the other´s heads . Also good for one handed hacking with Katate Uchi sword in close combat. But also the Koshi Sory has it´s advantage, it is very versatile. The Sori makes hughe difference, of course you need extreme examples to realy feel it. Who nows how the warriors choosed there sword´s. But at some point for shure they used what was there. PS: Just try it, lift a sword over the head, about 45 degree or little more and just turn your body 180 degree and back Maybe it helps to understand?! Regards ruben

Hi Martin, if you think about the Shichi- go- san festival, were boys getting there first hakama and maybe the sword... Try to google it, I forgot the details The festival it self is not very old, but its roots for shure. So to say, celebrateing the good and healthy "offspring" is common everywhere I think. I saw few so called boys sword from picture just, there were nothing special to see so far. But check the youtube- link below, it´s about a little handachi- koshirae: Greetings ruben

Hi James, what about cutting the hole thing and leaving just 2-3 millimeters from the bottom and attaching a new one? The gluing problem is still there than ....hmmm. Sturgeon bladder glue or an other fish clue comes to my mind, but its little complicated to use them, especialy on horn. What about urushi? Urushi is also a good glue! Also birch tar is a strong clue when used as such. Just few ideas... regards ruben

Hi Drago, I just can answear your first question partly. So in old days most were mounted 6-9 cm from the koiguchi, I belive. For me its like this, when I´am squeezing my palm the sword should unlock. I mean when my left thump(maybe indexfinger as well, depends on the style) is placed on the tsuba, it should open just with the squeezing movement of the left hand. So the distance should a bit less than the broughtest part of your palm. It´s the most usefull way to draw a sword in my opinion and has many advantages. Best regards ruben

Hi all, hi Brian, that was a nice idea, it came like i would expected. And what about prognosis for the future, how will the market develop? More and more swords come into existence, hopefully not so many will get destroyed. Hmmm? What you guys think could be the conclusion? :D Best wishes! ruben

Hi Peter, this paper is also added for protecting the ito from getting scuffed by the "same". I tried to do tsuka maki my self, with all my efforts and all the best materials and information. The result was not realy satisfying, the origami papers were to thick and the shape not realy ok, enough to full an amateur maybe. In the end it was expensive and waist of time (the session took me the hole night with a lot of swetting, no joke). I have to say I did it without clips and practised many times with shoe laces before. I think it is possible to do, just not for once in life time, must be a kind of hobby than. Greetings! ruben

Hi Jimi- San, what makes me wonder is on the 17. picture (I belive) it seems that the patina comes off in a small area... should not shine like this, also the last mekugi- hole was drilled and not burred afterwards. The patina seems very dark in the lower part of the nakago. Makes me also think it was added later. Such an old sword with this ha- machi,... I dont believe it´s very likely! The oxidation process in the last few hundred years speaks against the theory of not being much used. On the other hand it could be very much shortened, cause 77cm is not a very huge sword, regarding the length. In the past old men fought with much longer swords, it´s been recorded The steel looks interesting, not typical for shinshinto, but I´am far from an expert! Greetings ruben

just the ha- machi and mune- machi were moved, so the ha- machi is to brought i think. But realy don´t now about era, but if it is not "very" old should be ubu, ...no? About sugata, hmm could be shortened also On the other side the nakago is not too bad shaped, it looks ok so far. Ps.: the fuchi dont fit, hard to find some over 39mm, had this doruble as well :| Greetings! ruben

Hi Peter, well done! Please don´t touch the oil, the wire could or will come off!!! For the iron, I would use a bamboo needle instead glass- fiber pen, it´s safer. I think you will not over clean the iron, just take off all the red junk! Greetings! ruben

Hi all, Ron, maybe the motive is jasmin- blossoms and leafs, but irealy don´t now . Greetings! ruben

Do it! Load up some pic´s if possible. Best wishes!

Dear Justin, there are two opportunities! You clean it with the right method (bamboo/- antler method) or you leave it like it is. I personaly would clean it, it will give the sword a few decades more to exist in a useable condition. But if so it has be done in a very fussy and rigorous way, it will take many hours and you will wonder about how nice it will come out in the end. Do it right or leave it, i would say. You will wonder how much red rust will come off! Greetings Ruben

...and often the kashira is in some kind of "rounded" shape! ruben

Jean, you forgot to mention that the tsuka is always wrapped in the tsubame- maki- style . If there were any daisho, the sho´s tsuka would be also waisted! Greetings ruben

Dear Gentlemen, found this technical book of the edo period on flee- bay, maybe someone is interested to buy it!? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-Scienc ... 43b75303e1 Regards ruben

Hi Dave, thank you, it is just the very boring part of the hole blade on the picture. Yes I belive the Niku seems pretty prominent, but this sword seems to be in his first polish or so. It is heavy and the ha is ubu with big funbari. The sword is not signed, and its hard to tell who could be the atari. I can´t provide more pic´s cause it´s at koshirae- makers place (since 2 years ). Regards ruben

Dear Dave, what about this, is it flat or not: Regards ruben

Hi Gentlemen, I strongly believe "nashiji- hada" came from the shape of the core and the seeds, not skin. Found this as resource: http://www.ksky.ne.jp/~sumie99/nashiji.html Regards ruben

Hi Nick, looks good your sword. I would lean towards gendaito, it´s never been made in muromachi era. As you invited beginners also to comment, here you are . Greetings! Ruben

Hi J., try this one, many interesting things there: http://www.namikawa-ltd.co.jp/cgi-bin/list_e.cgi#22 Greetings! ruben

Hi Dan, my former Sensei had a sword, made from a smith from Poland. This sword had some kind of Nashiji- hada and was forged from swedish steel, maybe this helps. Indeed swedish steel is somthin special, or was... Maybe this info is of any value. Greetings