Mike
-
Posts
203 -
Joined
Everything posted by Mike
-
Yes, there is a way to repatinate the nakago, there few past threads that are dealing this issue. Anyway it is a job for professional polisher and might cost you more than your sword value. Mike
-
The common ways to sign for a togi is by making decorative burnishing on shinogiji near the nakago and on the mune, near the kissaki (in fact the lines usually stops above the yokote point). This stage on polishing process is called kesho migaki. It said that hon'ami school togi sign with alternating thick and thin lines on the shinogiji. I have seen very few swords with togi kanji but it is uncommomn and mostly on blade from late 19c to showa era Mike
-
An interesting design combining sumo wrestler and huge catfish. Mike
-
Thanks, that was educating. Same system is in use until now for Jewish calander. Here in Israel we are using both Gregorian calander and Jewish calander. Mike
-
Have you tried asking at Satcho? They can look for you out of print books, and sometimes have books that are not published at the web site. Hope that might help. Mike
-
Holydays? Mike
-
maybe Ukiyo-e model? Mike
-
Thank Pete, I guess I relied too much on my memoty yesterday night and got wrong with To-Ron thing, you right of-course it is that tsuba you mentioned. Mike
-
I have another tsuba that untill recently I thought it is Kyo Shoami school, it is lobster design. A few days ago I found identical design on Dr. stein site saying it is Heyanjo sukashi. I don't have enough knowledge or books to assist me. What do you think? Mike
-
I have this tsuba that I purchased as ko-shoami schooll the design is of whell, waves and sakura. On July issue of To-Ron (NCJSC magazine) there was a photo of almost identical design telling it is Tosho tsuba. Would like to have your thoughts. Mike
-
You can find here: http://www.arco-iris.com/George/tsuba.htm#tsuba some examples for soten tsuba. Mike
-
Try this :hofhine@worldnet.att.net, hope it is the right one. Mike
-
AFAIK this red laquer is used to hide kitae ware, usualy found on late koto naginata and nagamaki hi. So while modifying into katana or wakizashi the red laquer is sometimes left. Mike
-
Has anyone bought from this seller?
Mike replied to bullpuppy's topic in Auctions and Online Sales or Sellers
Hi Peter I will be interested to know what gave you the sign of retempering, I always find it hard to view it in photos. Mike -
I think Ihad read once (but can't put my finger where) that a double part habaki were used on better swords, and usualy were made of solid gold, or gold foil. Mike
-
Might be reproduction of Thai dah, or Tai-Chi training sword, hard to tell without holding the sword. Mike
-
Thanks Rich, as always I apreciate your help. Does tekotsu appearance indicates strong iron? Mike
-
Hi, I am reading the "Tsuba, an Aesthetic Study" by Torigoye and Haynes, they mention the iron hardness as one of tsuba characteristics, when trying to identify the tsuba maker school . My question is how can I see if the iron is hard/soft? is it the color? bones? something else? Thanks for any help, Mike
-
Probably fake, due to bad nakago and kissaki, as all other stated before me. Hope it didn't cost much, the "secret" is gathering all the knowledge before first purchasing, and then buy only from reputable dealers and prefer papered swords. Mike
-
Peter, looks as sanbonsugi hamon to me. That is typical hamon for Mino Kanemoto school. It is hard to get full impression from the photo, but it looks very distinct sanbonsugi, which fit the later gen. of the Kanemoto school. Mike
-
Thanks to all who made this work along the years, since I first entered Dr. stein site on 1999 and fell in love with Nihonto (and also lost all my free cash ), also many thanks to Rich T through his term I started with tsuba collection (mostly sukashi...), and now Brian you have upgraded the board , so good luck, your success is ours also. Mike
