xxlotus8xx

Now thats COOL!

Prayer wheel.

Hi Rich. Ya I actually have that paged bookmarked . But I read somewhere that nagasa measurement was the same line as if measuring sori. Thanks for the clarification.

Greetings, So is proper nagasa measurement from tip of kissaki to mune-machi?

LOL you mean the way I did it the first time? Well I guess the main difference is I imported the picture into Visio and increased the pic transparency to about 40% and used the Visio tools to trace the outlines. Very nice picture Ken. And please understand that I fully respect you being a cad developer but I like my drawing better. But did you add the measurements into CAD and let it draw the blade? If we are serious about this ummm...cataloging I can provide a server to upload high def drawings to. After all I do run about 20 datacenters worldwide. . I can also appreciate the time value. But honestly whats the hurry? I took maybe 90 minutes of actual drawing and spent a WHOLE lotta time researching the blade measurements against other Nihonto.

I figured as much but doesn't hurt to ask right? And the lesson would be as in all things that there are no short cuts. I think Israel Regardie got it right with this.. "Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent." – Israel Regardie

You might have to import the file as opposed to open it. I recall some open source app than can do open CAD in FreeBSD. I'll check it out. And actually I think I have CAD in some software dir at work. Also if you can include a picture of the blade that you documented I would like to check the accuracy of the templates in Visio.

Hi Ken, You can email to me. I think I can open it with Visio? Email address is xxlotus8xx@yahoo.com

I am curious if anyone has used electrolytic rust removal techniques. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/ ... usting.htm

Hi Stephen If you email me the links I can open it with my Unix machine.---Nevermind I saw the link

I would love to see one of your drawings for comparison.The Visio I drew was a first pass at anything resembling a mechanical drawing and a real one would be a great template.And I fully get it that creating a drawing based on dimensions is the way to go. But how do you account for the variable of aging, etc... So please share!

HEY THAT WAS MY IDEA! Anyways I want to play also. It would be nice to compare the CAD to Visio and see if the measurements add up. Granted I am not even close to a mechanical engineer but I am pretty creative when it comes to solutions.

Got your points and due to the imperfections of the curves I actually adjusted by using more than one arc and fastening the arcs and adjusting the curve until it was perfect. It was nice to have the picture as reference because I did must of the line outlines at no less than 300% of the normal picture size. So ya I more or less traced a picture as opposed to make a blade based on measurements :lol: But it worked! I guess the real test would be to try again on a blade that already has been measured and see if the Visio Dimensional Engineering stencils hold true. So your one of the original Auto-cad developers? NICE! I do know that it is a powerful tool used across many engineering fields. Being that my field is Network Engineering I pretty much use Visio for logical and physical topologies. I have also seen this done in CAD as well as rack elevation diagrams.

I actually used Visio (what I use for Network Engineering physical and logical drawings) What I did was took a picture of the blade next to a ruler and created a ruler page and imported the picture and made the picture about 40% transparent. I then used geometric dimensioning stencils for the outline and occasionally QA'd againist the picture. When the outline was perfect I used the dimensions engineering stencil for the measurements and walaa. I also QA'd against the blade for sanity check. As for the hamon I drew in a freeform line and adjusted against the blade pic. With this I have quick reference for shape and other sue characteristics and of course more questions than answers are coming up!

Well explained Greg. Thanks.

Can you point me to an example? Nevermind I found one.. http://www.nihontomessageboard.com/nmb/ ... 402e5e3e23

Yes that was kind of my thought to become familiar with the intricacies of school/period by doing these. My original plan was to play "guess the school/period" with the drawing and compare with my notes and research but I thought that might offend some people. And that Kissaki diagram is nice! This is the stuff I need to refine... Hmmm..note to self. More discipline when working from home..

Minor edit so I reposted.

Because I am an Engineer who spends way to much times with "a mind full of swords' instead of working I did a kind of CAD drawing of my blade. All the dimensions are accurate and I thought I would post the drawing for commentary. Mainly for measurements or descriptions I may have missed. I know there are some. Let's see if this will actually work. I would do these drawings for other folks if interested. All I need is a blade pic next to a ruler. :Removed the drawing due to a error in measurement. New one to be added shortly.

Wow. As a novice facing the rust problem and seeking a way to restore a very old tsuba and running across this thread I thought it was a godsend. But boy oh boy am I completely confused as a lot of the advise and guidance seems a complete contradiction. Use oil, don't use oil, remove rust only when the moon is new on the solstice month, etc.... I was also told by someone who I would consider quite senior to use bone and grind rust off (the ivory method?). I guess what I am getting is do whatever works for you as you are ultimately the person who has to look at it. As long as the taboos of modern chemicals and power tolls are avoided. Sorry, just had to get my thoughts in. And actually this is a very informative thread so thank you for that. And here is the tsuba in question. http://www.flickr.com/photos/xxlotus8xx ... 719267187/ Also I was going to ask about copper cleanup but I am fearful..

Not sure if anyone saw or posted this yet..But here ya go. !Enjoy.

Thank you Jamie. I can see a trace of hamon kind of but it is not entirely clear and hard to see the boshi (is that the right term)? The steel itself is pretty reflective. But I thought maybe under infrared or black light it might be easier. Has anyone tried it?

I was wondering...Is anyone aware how to view hamon and nie patterns on a sword that is unpolished? I was thinking that since the characteristics of the forged metal is different in the hamon then it would reflect light differently under different light spectrums. So would something like a viewing under a black light bring it out? Thanks!!

WENT?!!! HAH! Try being me..

So this book is excellent. I am finding it very to the point without a lot of "read between the lines" to get the answer. GREAT JOB!