Jamie

I think he used tachi so if someone searched this would come up.

Welcome to the forum. You might want to post your real name as it is a forum rule. Here is a link to sword care if you need it. http://www.nbthk-ab.org/Etiquette.htm Hope it helps. Jamie

There are very few pictures of the blade, so not much can be told there. The Nakago(Tang) is pretty crude though, the lines are not straight. Tsuba appears to cast. I would bet on it being some kind of chinese repro. You might take a look at the following link. http://jssus.org/nkp/fake_japanese_swords.html Brian, I just noticed more pics of blade than I first although Even just the couple of the Nakago, and you can tell. TY

Matus, thanks for sharing, beautiful blade.

I do see the Mei Posted. I can't remember who made the suggestions on the books, or I would credit the suggestions.

"I've ordered a set of the flash cards from Grey Doffin, commented on in the translation thread, and hope to be able to get further with these translations myself in the future. There seems to be quite a variance between the perfectly illustrated kanji one sees in the reference texts and those found on the nakagos. Quite challenging for this newbie. Reminds me of what a fingerprint examiner must go through. Regards, Stu" Stu, I've found the variance you are talking about to be the most challenging so far. Some of the other members have suggested some other books as well. I don't yet have them but the suggestions were: A Guide to Reading and Writing Japanese" (1850 basic Toyo Kanji), Charles Tuttle Co. "Japanese-English Character Dictionary" Charles Tuttle Co. Japanese Names and How To Read Them by Koop & Inad Hope they may help you. Jamie

John, I agree that it may deserve better than to just sit in a closet, but the expense of a Polish has to be justified by the blade. I recently acquired a blade that although probably not worth a polish is certainly worth preserving. If you get a good Quality Sword Maintenance kit, some of the surface rust and fingerprints may in time be cleaned up. You might want to get some mineral oil, and coat the blade very lightly with it. This will at the least preserve it. http://www.yamakawadojo.com/swordcare.pdf

It's easier to read posted this way.

That may have been a chinese kit. Lohman has good ones, and some other people too. If it was really cheap chances are it wasn't good quality. Choji should be clear, not yellowish. What color was the choji you had?

Dimitri, Are you sure this isn't a wakazashi? What is the Nagasa? Dimensions will help folks also. I unfortuneately may be the least experience to help other than to suggest also posting the measurements.

You might post photos oriented this way so it can be easily read. Forum rules dictate also that you post your real name.

Choji isn't hard to find. Lohman has it, as does artswords.com

Grey, I think it's because they do sell. When I first started I scoured Craigslist as I don't have a lot around me and no study group. So I drove up about 40 miles north to a Very nice subdivision and looked at what this fellow thought was an ancestral blade. It looked artificially aged and like it had come out of a press, and it had these leaves that were literally the opposite of Horimono. What I mean is it had designs literally protruding off the blade. In the few years I have been studying I have not seen another representation as bad as that one. I told him that I wasn't interested and that I was sure it wasn't Japanese. He insisted I was wrong and said he had paid $2500 dollars for it. In my first year of study I saw a bunch of fakes and people insisted that they were indeed real. At least on the board here when someone posts a fake there are many folks to say this is fake, so that person doesn't feel like someone is trying to take advantage of them by saying it's fake.

you might consider the following books. Samurai Sword: A Handbook ~John Yumato The Japanese Sword: A Comprehensive Guide (Japanese Arts Library) ~ Kanzan Sato The Connoisseurs Book of Japanese Swords ~ Kokan Nagayama http://www.nbthk-ab.org/Etiquette.htm

http://nihontoclub.com/search/node/Ujitsugu

Keith, You have no idea what I or anyone else feels as they hold a sword. You only know how you feel. You may think it the case, but it's just you speculating. I do agree that greater appreciation comes with increased study and understanding in any field. Other than that though telling folks what they can or can not feel is fruitless. I am not trained in any martial art, however I have cut plenty of Tatami with many different blades. So I think I can feel the life in a blade when held. They certainly feel like much more than a balanced piece of steel. My .02 and it's Probably worth less than that.

When I began studying I was definitely had a preference for more flamboyant Hamon. Until I saw a Ko Mihara, with an absolutely stunning suguha. Understated is the word I'd use. It was exquisite. I'll probably never forget looking at that blade.

Rob, The Notch is called the Mune Machi. Look here for a diagram of Terminology. http://home.earthlink.net/~steinrl/glossary.htm

Morita San, Thanks for your help. I too have been playing along. It's the first one i have gotten close to correct. I missed the top Kanji though.

I'd send it someone who repairs these professionally if it's that much an issue to you.

You might consider starting with these: Samurai Sword: A Handbook ~John Yumato The Japanese Sword: A Comprehensive Guide (Japanese Arts Library) ~ Kanzan Sato The Connoisseurs Book of Japanese Swords ~ Kokan Nagayama There is an FAQ at the top of the page too that is worth reading.

Point out to who, the seller, the buyer, or Both?

Is the tip of the Kissaki damaged?

Matt, As Chris suggested you can't go wrong with the FAQ. Since you said you'd checked the links and felt overwhelmed, I'll suggest three to start. These were all suggested to me when I began. Samurai Sword: A Handbook ~John Yumato The Japanese Sword: A Comprehensive Guide (Japanese Arts Library) ~ Kanzan Sato The Connoisseurs Book of Japanese Swords ~ Kokan Nagayama After reading these you'll have some knowledge but don't expect that overwhelmed feeling to go away for a while. haha

Jeremy, It's between 4 and 7MM from the edge. It's not wide, but definitely visible. Keith, I though the same thing about the bonji. Figured it had been added later. And there is a very small spot just to the right of one of the dots- I am just about positive it's there to hide a flaw.