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Wow! Some really great metallurgy information in there. Thanks so much Cheers

+ geek cred to James. Thanks

I defer to Ian. However, while researching nitro-cellulose lacquer (hard to get Urushi in the US, and I'm allergic to poison oak so afraid anyway) I found that many recommended naphtha (aka lighter fluid) as a safe cleaner and medium to use while wet sanding. Unlike water it does not swell wood and evaporates clean. Used to be able to get in home-dempot, but I think its used for making meth and now I find they stock other solvents. I would first confirm its not a problem for urushi, or course. Seems ok: http://www.getty.edu/conservation/publi ... rushi2.pdf "After a technical examination, objects are often cleaned. Cleaning is usually done with distilled water or a weak detergent mixture and cotton swabs; in some cases, organiC solvents such as petroleum benzine (Y.M.&P. naphtha, ligroin, petroleum ether), toluene or xylene are used to remove greasy surface accretions. Occasionally, the traditional Japanese polishing powder (tsunoko) is used; we have been using the modern version of this material, made from finely-divided anatase (titanium dioxide), with some success."

so very cool. For those interested,. Mark has posted very nice photo-rich threads outlining the process over at Ford's Following the iron brush. Making iron from dirt. I bet chicks dig that. Regards

Hey "Navy", please sign you post with a real First name as per forum rules (trying to assist mods). I see no signs of suriage on your nakago. One normally expects to see additional mekugi-ana and a squared off end. http://www.nihontomessageboard.com/articles/Suriage.pdf Regards

New link, it was re-listed: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dl ... 0812481909 I am no expert. Clearly the nakago has been filed down and a new mei added with a dremmel or the like. The hamon rising up past the shinogi seems odd. Regards

That's funny Grey. Something like this might be possible for the "gunto" type mass-produced blades, and believe I have seen a site that had such info. Issue is, as soon as posted its obsolete. The military/gunto/nco swords have really taken off in recent years, with clean examples fetching over 1500 regularly on ebay. As others noted the issue with true nihonto is you have to factor in the price of "Art". Any good price guides on buying collector art? I don't know of any. I know I would not pay what others feel a Picasso is worth. Not my kind of art. That said, if you do buy, I suggest using the market place here. Too many ways to run afoul looking for a lost treasure bargain. Expect to pay at least 1,500 bucks, and more like 3K for a true nihonto with study potential. HTHs

I have found his website to be very useful. I think I need to pick this one up. Thanks

Come on guys. Sure, it's a steep price, but the item is "/W SHEIF".

tesselation. Have to love that. Edit to add: This would be the day they black out wiki. Thanks all for the tips and pics on the real vs artificial same. Need to go inspect my tsukas again. Hear the same tooth method for real vs fake pearls. Cheers

Perhaps the proverbial dumb q, which, they say, is the one that's never asked, so... What is the obvious tell to celluloid vs genuine same? I looked at the pics in this thread and none would have jumped out to me as artificial. Is there some burn test or edge-seem give-away? I have a star-stamped kanehide, and sometimes wonder if the same is not celluloid, given the way it has cracked, but I have few examples to compare with and believe real same also cracks. Anyone know of modern sources for artificial ray skin as used on chitanas? I wazs unable to locate any and so bought a real (untanned) skin for use on a tool-steel projects blade. Regards

Never seen that style of Tsuka wrap. The nakago appears to have been cleaned, which is not ideal if its something you are currently doing. Regards

An interesting question. As you likely know, tachi stands do store the sword more or less vertically, but oddly with the tsuka down. This arrangement always stuck me as odd; wonder if also related to oil and pooling, but if that much oil is about I see a mess regardless of what end is down. Regards

Cool, a few questions: I understand this only reads a few molecules into the surface. Seems one would want a cleaned nakago to ensure you are not scanning patina and detritus left by previous owners. But we all know its verboten to clean one. I assume the ji is being cleaned w/denatured alcohol or similar to remove wax/oil before its tested. Any pl;ans to shoot some of that super-duper wootz/true Damascus to figure out why its not able to made today ala koto steel? Regards

The bohi seems a bit wobbly through the nakago. Kissaki pics are bad, hard to see if the yokote is there. Regards

Hmm. Too bad. As I understand, a polisher that uses the more popular Keisho technique is, in fact, drawing in the hamon with what I believe to be a slightly acidic Keisho stone. It can be far harder, and in many cases far less-flashy to follow a natural hamon (when its complex), so not surprised it could be worn off. I am not saying this was an attempt to paint on a false/flashy hamon, but how hard could it be to follow a straight line? Its a pretty convincing job, which is scary; even looking back its not that loud or flashy, or obvious where the real hamon is, but I've much to learn. Regards

@ adam, indeed, from a recent posting here I believe: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimizuka Ears make sense, at least when far enough away that a head may spoil, not to mention good warriors being burdened with so many such items. Regards

Interesting. I believe similar XF tech was touted as a way for folks to get confirmation of WW II helmets and decals. Part of a commercial authentication service, which I believe has since run into issues with credibility. This is not to say the underlying tech is not sound. http://xrfacts.com/ Regards

Thanks for the comments. I think my tastes have improved, in that, things designed for Westerners are loosing their appeal. ;O Cheers

Mark, Grey has offered you great advice. I have only been into nihonto for 1.5 years, and I already see what he predicted happening to me. That said, if you have the money, then why not invest a little and have fun while you learn and study? I find having a real something, helps kindle my interest and motivation to study. The hope is, when the study is done that something will a), still interest me, or b), be able to be sold for something that does w/out too great a loss. If you are doing this to increase the value of the item then do read again what Grey has said. If you need a fun projects that can take years when done "properly", and don't mind if you recoup all your money, then why not? Best regards

A live auction, not mine, and I have no plans to buy it. The BIN price is a cool 29.5Gs Something about the bonji seems off to me. I can make out a kado kanji, so seems to be Japanese at least.... Mounts are a bit loud. Perhaps an export item? http://www.ebay.com/itm/180747456960?ss ... 1423.l2649 Curious what folks feel about this item. Seller has 100% + feedback, and has sold many nihonto items, more than a few with such horimono. Many past items have had their pics taken down, and out of Hungary, not that there is anything wrong with that, I guess. Regards

Thanks, Eric. The price points are useful. Albeit as reference only as the irs wont get off my back about 2009. A good year that has since soured, but that is a story for another day. Regards

As to not papering blades that have been de-gimeid When expertly done, and when not cut too deeply, the mei can be removed and the nakago repatinated so that few are the wiser.... This strikes me as a bit "dirty", but you are bringing it closer to what the original smith intended/produced. Regards

Thanks, its good to know LA still has hope. Best regards Edit to add: Jean, I'm feeling much less pained knowing I can have Rice cracker come to my door. Have seen them at shows, know they have good kit.

Hello . I will try and help the mods with this one. Please do follow forum rules and sigh all post with a real first name.last initial. It might help if you told us a bit about yourself and knowledge level, as well as budget, so a proper recommendation can be made. All will suggest books before blades if this is your first nihonto. I live in LA, and know of no specific Japanese sword store in the area. There are militaria dealers that will have guntos, but I suggest you consider the for-sale section here, or use one of the recommended dealers links in the commercial sites listed in the links section. You will at least then get a real sword with a worth that approximates what you will pay. Welcome to the site and hope this helps. Regards