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Everything posted by Brian
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Often see this with older swords that were remounted for the war. Quality can vary significantly and often it goes unnoticed for years. Genuine old fuchi, nothing too special, but a real and old one.
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Not sure how many members we have here who actively collect netsuke, and if there are, aside from 1 or 2 people, how many are expert enough to give info? You guys seem to do a decent job, but remember that those who do know about them...the onus is going to be on you guys to answer the questions, since the rest of us know nothing. I think let's leave it in one thread for now, in the Other Arts section, and if we find there is enough activity in that section, I can create a sub-section for it. All going to depend on how much activity we have.
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It's unlikely your gun was made to use any additional sight pieces. As Piers explained, although they look like they had additional pieces used to adjust elevation, the fact is the shape was just traditional, and they really didn't have extra pieces. Only very few schools of gunmaking used the pieces you are referring to, but those are by far in the minority.
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There are plenty of $500 swords out there. Won't be great ones, or in polish. But we see them here occasionally. Honestly, not recommended to buy project blades that will never do much for the eyes. But not impossible if you want one. @Mark anything your side?
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Think you're going to have to post a pic of the tsuba/sword to get an idea of what you need. Shitogi tsuba are ancient or ceremonial and I don't think there is one seppa shape that will fit for all, it would be an individual fit sort of thing, and likely need to be manufactured.
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BIG name, and on the off chance that this is a legit signature, this one needs to be treated very carefully...oiled and looked at by someone in hand. If a genuine mei, it would be worthy of a proper and expensive restoration.
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Which would you get? Mei or Mumei
Brian replied to RichardY's topic in General Nihonto Related Discussion
Sukesada, not Sukehada. There were a prolific number of smiths with that name, and tbh, the average ones aren't highly regarded. They made practical swords, more function than art. -
Fix the gun up to working. You'll never be happy until it's complete.
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Genuine tachi, but late made, maybe for the export market. Blade is most likely a genuine but average quality piece, put into mounts to appeal to foreigners. But it's not a fake.
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I Have a Million Questions About Buying a Blade in Japan
Brian replied to Lordd_Humungous's topic in Nihonto
You're not going to find "tanto" made in any way that isn't subject to export laws, unless maybe the blade is less than 15cm. You may find short yari that aren't subject to export process, if the blade is shorter than 15cm. If you find a flea market sword that isn't registered or is just handed over, trying to take it out the country without paperwork is a serious risk, and subject to legal action. Honestly, you're going to struggle to find a sword under $1000 from a dealer there, since most of them dump them on eBay and to the West. And those are all going to need the export process. Best bet is look for a nice kozuka, or a yari in shirasaya. Yes, you'll see many fittings in second hand shops, and some blades. And shockingly, they seem to ask double to triple the market values. Every antique dealer there seems to think that sword-related antiques are treasures. Even tsuba in flea markets are a mix of copies, and overpriced average stuff. Best bet is contact a bunch of dealers beforehand, and see if they can source something before you go. -
Swords were remounted in different fittings many times in their lives, as well as being shortened according to needs or fashions of the time. New handle mekugi ana/hole seldom lines up with the original hole in the tang, so a new one was drilled. Very very common. Although this one isn't antique, fittings were changed at least once for some reason, leading to the new hole.
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That stamp above the signature (deepest one I have seen yet) shows that it was a more mass produced sword, not fully traditionally made as opposed to a gendaito. But it appears to be in decent condition and polish, so a nice one of the sort. No blood...the markings in paint are assembly markings and arsenal markings, nothing of any real concern.
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ID Help Please (Type 98, Shin Gunto, Officer's Sword?)
Brian replied to EryrWen's topic in Military Swords of Japan
Amateur polishing and restoration is very frowned on here. Nothing more than oiling and wiping is advocated. Whatever you do, don't remove ANY of the patina on the tang, this is vital to any value the sword has, and it is never cleaned up aside from light wiping to prevent active rust -
Nice healthy wakizashi in decent polish.
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To the Japanese, tradition was everything. If you were taught to make things a certain way, innovation wasn't you goal. Continuing your master's tradition was. That's why we have schools of swordmaking tradition. No-one can tell you for sure that it's gimei, but honestly, there is no way a Japanese seller is selling you a sword that could be high level at bargain prices. Do you have a relationship with the seller or was this en eBay/website purchase? Honestly, treasure hunting is a natural part of Nihonto collecting, but it seldom works that way. Did you pay several thousand $'s for it? I'm guessing it was from one of the usual sellers that unloads stuff like this to the West. Again, not a bad sword at all.
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Seller in Japan would have papered it if he thought it had a chance of being shoshin. I think you can comfortably assume it's gimei.
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Jörg, It's definitely not a fake. It's a real, antique Japanese sword. Whether the signature is real or not, that's the question. But if you consider how many signatures were faked, it is extremely common and doesn't make a sword fake, just gimei. The torokusho there suggests it was exported from Japan. That one looks like the original license too...which is supposed to be handed in when deregistering and exporting, so you have to wonder if it left via the proper process...but that's another story. But bear in mind that a sword with potential high end signature seldom exists and sells from Japan without someone having submitted it for papers, or having the signature checked. They aren't in the habit of selling top swords to Westerners for cheap prices unless they are sure they don't have big potential. So without papers, you have to start out assuming it's gimei. Which is likely until proven otherwise. But even if it is gimei, that doesn't change the fact that the sword is real and antique and likely a few hundred years old. The sword has to confirm the signature, not the other way round. Could be a mid to late 1500's sword with date added, or totally gimei. You're going to have to get better opinions on the workmanship to work out if it's shoshin or not. Something like an NBTHK meeting or show it to a polisher etc. Nice looking sword either way.
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Easy repair. Work out exactly how much you need to take off the bolt to get it flush. Take out the screw and find a sacrificial nut that fits the threads. Screw it on, leaving just as little sticking out as you need removed. Hold the bolt, and grind/file off until it's level with the nut. Using a sacrificial nut will prevent any damage to the sword's nut, and also clean the threads up when you unscrew it. Then install. You can use a touch of cold blue to blacken the end of the bolt so it's not shiny, or paint it.
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Check out the FAQ above the forum, there are some good topics about polishing and should you have it done...etc etc.
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Trust me, I've tried all that. Even the heat/ice, and acetone/transmission treatment. Have done a ton of research. 2 Of mine just refuse to budge, to the point that if I apply any more force, I'm going to shear off the plug. Will give it another try sometime soon. I have since bought some Knock 'er Loose, which is also very good, and got some sword parts loose (non Japanese) that were not reacting to anything. May try to soak in penetrating oil for a few days, alternating with heat and ice. Oneday will get them loose. May get the gunsmith at work to weld up a socket that matches the taper of the plug, as leather doesn't grip the taper well, and using something through the cross hole is risky. Been a long time since I tried, maybe time to try again this weekend.
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Been sharpened like a knife. Typical of someone who knows nothing about Japanese swords. Done later.
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ARMY MOUNT ARMY MOUNT 27 3/8" KANEHIRO ?
Brian replied to Dogditcher's topic in Military Swords of Japan
This is an arsenal made "Showato" and not hand forged, definitely oil quenched. But genuine of course. -
Blade looks possibly genuine to me, put into amateur homemade fittings. But the only way you'll know for sure is to see the nakago.
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Help identifying a Gunto katana – Signature "藤原貞行" (Fujiwara Sadayuki?)
Brian replied to Pierrick Chesnais's topic in Nihonto
It's a traditionally made antique sword, in civilian traditional fittings. Clean the blade of all grease using Isopropyl Alcohol (nothing abrasive) and keep very lightly oiled. -
Help identifying a Gunto katana – Signature "藤原貞行" (Fujiwara Sadayuki?)
Brian replied to Pierrick Chesnais's topic in Nihonto
"Hello everyone, I am asking for your help in identifying a katana that has belonged to my family for over 60 years. It was probably brought back to France after World War II. The blade has always been covered with some kind of protective grease and has been carefully preserved. I recently discovered a small section of the blade and was surprised to find it in excellent condition, with a high polish underneath. I have not yet cleaned the rest of the blade to avoid any damage. Here are some details: The tang bears a signature that appears to read 藤原貞行 – perhaps Fujiwara Sadayuki? The mount appears military, probably a Type 98 Shin Gunto. The blade length (nagasa) appears to be approximately 67 cm. I can provide more photos if needed, including a cleaned section to see if a hamon is present. Any help confirming the signature, the period, and whether it's a traditionally or mechanically made blade would be greatly appreciated. Also, any advice on thorough cleaning or preservation would be welcome. Thanks in advance! Sincerely, Pierrick"